I have a 1978 it has a charging problem. It blew the wire at the starter so i replaced the alternator thinking it was shorted out I found that the printed circuit board in the console was shorted so I replaced it. When i start the car im getting 15 volts out of the alternator but its not getting to the battery. Also it blows the fusable link at the starter. If i unplug the 2 wire plug on the alternator it does not blow the fusable link at the starter. Any ideas????

 

I suspect you have a "short" on the power lead .... the Fusible Link is doing it's job. Disconnect the battery and take some pictures of the area around the starter.
Are you comfortable using a multimeter?

 

I have ohmed the wiring the wiring is good was less than 2 ohms. Battery to ground starter to alternator, alternator to ground .

 

Just because it is new, doesn't mean that the alternator your bought doesn't have an issue.

Are you 100% sure of the function of the two spade connectors on the back of the alternator, and that they are wired correctly?

 

Never ever disconnect the battery from a running engine. It is very hard on the alternator and your voltage spike would do lots of damage to any electronics. It is a serious "No No".

First, Clean the connections to your battery and ground at the battery and where the wire attach. Measure and record the voltage at the battery posts.
Second, Remove the battery and check it out, clean it and add water if needed. Be sure the terminals are tight and not corroded. If they are break out the wire brush. Charge the battery completely until it gasses at 15.0 volts.
Third, On my 1968 there are two fusible links on the charging system and if one of them blows it can cause a dead fuse box. Check for them on your engine, near the starter or up near the alternator. Since you had a major meltdown I would still check the fusible links. When an accessory went south it blew the fusible link that powered the fuse box. Install a new fusible link and everything was back to normal for me.
Fourth. Using your normal voltmeter you can read AC or DC. Your alternator makes AC and the converts it to DC. Try and measure the output for any AC (Alternating Current). If the alternator is making any AC at all then it is time to replace the alternator or the diode bridge.
Do you have the factory alternator on the C3 or is it an aftermarket? If aftermarket How big is it. I have seen problems with "new" alternators, as well. I have a Higher output 120-125 amps Powermaster (sp?) alternator that I connected using a #6 from the alternator output to the "battery" post on the starter solenoid. I have a Marine Grade Circuit Breaker mounted near the battery for safety.

 

If it's only melting down the fuseable link when you plug in the 2 wire connector on the alternator.
Can ONLY be one of 2 things. One, you somehow have the wires backwards. (Unlikely the way the plug is made) Two, there is a dead short in that alternator. Brand new or not.

 

Hi all,

I had a similar issue with the two prong and power not getting to the battery. We looked at everything. I finally found that the crimp inside the cover of the connector had broken, however the wire stayed in place inside the plastic. Almost impossible to find unless the pins were released. However it did not blow a fuse.

H