So today I was messing with my Sniper 2 doing test drives. Everything was working well until I entered an on-ramp and went from 1st to 2nd and when going to 3rd the shifter stuck in the neutral position and wouldn't move. I pushed the clutch in and it disengaged but the shifter was still stuck in the middle and wouldn't move. I let out on the clutch to see if my transmission seized and found that I was in second gear. At least I could move. The next off-ramp was a little less than a mile away so I limped it on the shoulder as I know there is no way to even look at the rods when the car is on the ground or even reach them. Got her home and on the stands and unstuck the rods. Now it feels as if something broke in the shifter. It will shift but every once in a while it will do the 2-3 thing. I've had the shifter out a few time but each time the trans was out too. I've never tried to take it out with the trans in the way. Looks like I can if I take the driveshaft off (easy) and move the exhaust out of the way. And of course the center console.
I do run my stock shifter in the short throw holes on my Muncie.

I rebuilt the stock shifter years ago and know how to set it up and adjust the arms etc. I'm wondering if I should just get an aftermarket or rebuild this one again. Any suggestions/reviews/pictures for aftermarket ones? I'm looking around now for one. Reverse lock out is not mandatory but I do like that in the stock shifter. I don't want to mangle the console.

Thanks

EDIT: Internet search finds the only option is Hurst Competition Plus with rod kit. $800!!! Guess I'll see what's wrong with my stock on and go from there. Stock 4 speed shifter rebuild kit. $60

 

Did you check if any of the bolts holding the levers into the shafts loosened? Did you insert the linkage tool into the shifter?

 

What year?
agree above, loose bolts, and alignment..
on mine i noted looking from underneath much better aligning half moons than alignment tool which i used to get close (79 m21 super t-10)..
post 69.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...etc-diy-4.html

 

I found out years ago that the stock shifter is more than adequate.
just adjust it correctly.

 

Just so ya know. It comes straight out the top with the rods attached really easy!

 

I wouldn't have anything but a Hurst shifter. You should be able to find one less than 800 bucks . Thanks again J.B.

 

Please explain a little. This would make me so happy. I'm heading out to the garage now to start taking the console out.

 

Muncie and Super T10's have the stock shifter mounted by a bracket to the frame cross member. Hurst bolts on the tailhousing. Both trans are side shifted trans. If you have Tremec it is top mounted.

 

You only take the console plate and boot off Not the console

 

Is the Hurst shifter upgrade worth the cost?

 

no. Ive had both, rebuilt both and they shift about the same. The Muncie shifter will have a shorter throw than the Hurst if you use the short shift holes. The only difference is that Hurst has a spring that keeps the shifter in the 3-4 gate and you have to push it over intot he 1-2 gate. This is better for racing so you dont miss a shift or go from 2 to 1 when you are shifting fast. IF the muncie is rebuilt it will be fine. The only thing that could be the issue is the shifter lost a bolt and the whole shifter is moving, you lost a bushing so the rod or th elinkage isnt pulling it fully out of 2nd beofre going into 3rd, or you broke something internally. I would bet on one of the plastic bushings or you wore out a linkage rod or something...its all mechanical so it isnt rocket surgery. You can find it

 

Got it out without taking exhaust etc off. I did take my center console out just because I didn't want to damage it and I can put some floor insulation under it.
I didn't find anything broken or missing. It is void of any lube so the last time I rebuilt it the white grease didn't last. I looked it up and found moly grease to be better for this application. Gary, what do you recommend?
I did try the thicker spacer that comes with the rebuild kit I bought years ago but it's too thick. I've cleaned everything up with my wire brush. Made an alignment tool (couldn't find my old one) and just going to grease everything up good and put it back together.

 

I've been running my Muncie on short throw a long time.

 

I never use grease on the shifter because it attracts the dirt from the road and can cause problems. I use a "dry" spray lubricant.

 

The best kind of shifter repair is one that goes directly into the transmission connected to a 5-speed

Sorry... couldn't resist!

 

Got it all back together. Used some grey moly grease and a small brush to apply. Went back together and is working a lot better but I can tell it's just worn out and needs replacement. My issue with replacements are where are they made these days and will it work as if it were a new 1971 part. I'll just have to be a little gentle, no more bang-shifting .

 

Some day............

 

Why not a rebuild kit?

 

I did, not the whole kit but the only thing that I would have changed with a new rebuild kit it the central shaft which mine looks good.

 

I just bought a new shifter from Top Flight Automotive all new with the ball, used my old shifter rods , works great , price was right too !