1982 Auxiliary cooling fan temp. switch?
I would like to change the 1982 OEM Auxiliary cooling fan temp switch to one of a lower operating temperature. Does anyone know of the part number for one that would operate in the 200-degree range. The OEM switch that operates above the 235-degree limit is defective and needs replaced. I think a lower temp switch would be a better choice here in SE TN. Has anyone changed this switch to a lower temp? If so, any consequences? Do you know a part number or vehicle that it was used in? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
(After actually looking at the installed temp. switch and not going by the part spec. it seems that the switch is a double pole, not a single pole connection. Am I looking at the right switch, passenger side between cylinder 6 and 8? When I pull up a replacement switch it is a single pole application?)
(After actually looking at the installed temp. switch and not going by the part spec. it seems that the switch is a double pole, not a single pole connection. Am I looking at the right switch, passenger side between cylinder 6 and 8? When I pull up a replacement switch it is a single pole application?)
Last edited by Abubba1; Jul 8, 2024 at 08:26 AM. Reason: The info initially provided is not correct.
I would like to change the 1982 OEM Auxiliary cooling fan temp switch to one of a lower operating temperature. Does anyone know of the part number for one that would operate in the 200-degree range. The OEM switch that operates above the 235-degree limit is defective and needs replaced. I think a lower temp switch would be a better choice here in SE TN. Has anyone changed this switch to a lower temp? If so, any consequences? Do you know a part number or vehicle that it was used in? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
https://www.lectriclimited.com/produ...-fan-switch-6/
The factory switch installed currently is a single pole switch. The one listed at Lectric Limited is a double pole. A guy at our local parts store suggested a SW505 Duralast Cooling Fan Single-pole Switch that is rated at 205-degrees to contact on. But I cannot find the thread size for this particular switch. I believe I will order one just to see it will work. I can always take it back.
The factory switch installed currently is a single pole switch. The one listed at Lectric Limited is a double pole. A guy at our local parts store suggested a SW505 Duralast Cooling Fan Single-pole Switch that is rated at 205-degrees to contact on. But I cannot find the thread size for this particular switch. I believe I will order one just to see it will work. I can always take it back.
I have installed an all-aluminum Cold Case radiator, new fan clutch, and plan on running a 180-degree thermostat to bring down the operating temperature. That why I was looking for a temp switch in the 205+degree range. I believe it opens (cuts current) at 190-degrees.
Do you still have the original computer controlled system? It may not like a 180 thermostat. Recommend you look in the factory manual emissions section.
The factory spec thermostat is 195-degrees. If I lower the temperature to 180-degrees, would you expect the computer system to react unfavorably to the lower temperature? I didn't think the computer would be that sophisticated in these 1980's engines. So, would you advise against changing it to a 180degree thermostat?
The factory spec thermostat is 195-degrees. If I lower the temperature to 180-degrees, would you expect the computer system to react unfavorably to the lower temperature? I didn't think the computer would be that sophisticated in these 1980's engines. So, would you advise against changing it to a 180degree thermostat?
I did check the logic diagrams and was surprised that most of the engine operating functions are tied to the 195+degree factory operating temperature. I guess I will reinstall the 195-degree thermostat and let it go from there. If I change it to 180-degree I'm afraid it will run me down a rabbit hole that I really don't want to be in. Thanks for steering me in the correct direction.
But the 1980 is a good ole' carburetor fueled engine and the 1982 is a primitive throttle body injection tied to a computer. I did the same thing to a 1980 I bought new and it ran great. After checking the operating logic on this 1982 I guess I need to leave it stock and not get into computer hell.
I've tried Many of the different recommended choices for fan controllers that thread in the head (between #6 & #8 cylinders) on my '84 Crossfire....my experience, time and $ invested, I'll give you for free....get a Standard TS-136!!!! Comes on around 215°f, off at around 200°f. Your fan will not run too much, if your car is moving, it shouldn't be on...if you're sitting a stop light...you want it running! Check out Rock Auto, around $45. Trust me, I spent many, many hours reading threads and tried all the AC delco choices, etc none of them had low enough "on" temps. The TS-136 is the GM equivalent of what they used on the Turbo charged Buick Grand Nationals....it works and it's the only switch I'll ever use👍
I've tried Many of the different recommended choices for fan controllers that thread in the head (between #6 & #8 cylinders) on my '84 Crossfire....my experience, time and $ invested, I'll give you for free....get a Standard TS-136!!!! Comes on around 215°f, off at around 200°f. Your fan will not run too much, if your car is moving, it shouldn't be on...if you're sitting a stop light...you want it running! Check out Rock Auto, around $45. Trust me, I spent many, many hours reading threads and tried all the AC delco choices, etc none of them had low enough "on" temps. The TS-136 is the GM equivalent of what they used on the Turbo charged Buick Grand Nationals....it works and it's the only switch I'll ever use👍













