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Does anyone know if an aftermarket slip yoke is available for a Tremek TKX going into a 1972 C3? I was assuming that I could buy this individually from Silver Sport (haven't checked American Power train yet), but because of parts issues, they are currently reserving theirs for their complete kits. The one from my Turbo 400 does not fit the Tremek, and I would like to use the "U- bolt" type connections that mine had.
There is no 31 spline (Ford/TKX) yoke on the market that has a bolt together joint, for a 1330.
This is the biggest hassle if you did not buy the complete kit.
Inland has a 1 piece slip yoke, that's it, in 1330.
So are you looking for 1310 or 1330 u-joints?
You have a couple of options in 1310. I even have a part.
In 1350 there is a very expensive Mark Williams slip yoke out there that bolts in.
Does anyone know if an aftermarket slip yoke is available for a Tremek TKX going into a 1972 C3? I was assuming that I could buy this individually from Silver Sport (haven't checked American Power train yet), but because of parts issues, they are currently reserving theirs for their complete kits. The one from my Turbo 400 does not fit the Tremek, and I would like to use the "U- bolt" type connections that mine had.
This is the part I used for a T56 in my swap. I got it from American power train.
I know they have this style for the TKX conversions as well.
Thanks - I don't know what size U-joints are on there now, but they are the originals that came with the Turbo 400. Maybe I can use a 1 piece yoke in the front, with joints already assembled, and bolt the driveshaft in, at the rear? I need to get under there and start looking around. I will call American, as well.
Thanks - I don't know what size U-joints are on there now, but they are the originals that came with the Turbo 400. Maybe I can use a 1 piece yoke in the front, with joints already assembled, and bolt the driveshaft in, at the rear? I need to get under there and start looking around. I will call American, as well.
I did this on my 65 on my TKX install. I have a C3 rear and C3 2 1/2" driveshaft with 1330 u-joints both ends. I have coilovers on the rear so no suspension bolted to the diff. I also added an access panel in the rear floor to get to the diff mount bolts. I unbolt the diff u-joint, drop the rear down by loosening the mount bolts, then slip the driveshaft over the diff to disengage the 1 piece yoke from the trans. Drop the driveshaft in the front and remove it out the front. Takes a little finesse but works. I did have to shorten the stock C3 driveshaft for proper length. It may be possible to drop the diff with the rear crossmember nd accomplish the same thing. Don't know for sure.
And here are various choices.... does that Tremek TKX have the same barrel diameter as Turbo-350? If so...there is one of those here....and if it's the 31 spline puppy..it is one of the choices: https://www.iedls.com/Online_Store/2/7
Originally Posted by J-Vette1
Does anyone know if an aftermarket slip yoke is available for a Tremek TKX going into a 1972 C3? I was assuming that I could buy this individually from Silver Sport (haven't checked American Power train yet), but because of parts issues, they are currently reserving theirs for their complete kits. The one from my Turbo 400 does not fit the Tremek, and I would like to use the "U- bolt" type connections that mine had.
Thanks - I don't know what size U-joints are on there now, but they are the originals that came with the Turbo 400. Maybe I can use a 1 piece yoke in the front, with joints already assembled, and bolt the driveshaft in, at the rear? I need to get under there and start looking around. I will call American, as well.
That inland bolt together yoke is a great find at $200 it's still a great deal compared to the Mark Williams yoke which is 4 to 500 dollars. They are all bolt together but they are 1350 u-joints which do not fit in a C3 drive tunnel very well and usually require some fiberglass tunnel mods to make a pocket and get another quarter or a half inch clearance.IIRC. There is a 1310 bolt together front yoke available as well if you are not running big horsepower that one works but unfortunately no one makes a 1330 which handles bigger horsepower and fits the C3 tunnel. It's the u-joints themselves that are the weak link and around 400 to 500 horse is pushing a 1310 to the limit.
DynoTech Driveline is the company that Silver Sport uses for their complete kits.
I upgraded the drive line in my SST kit to the 2 1/2” diameter chrome moly driveline with a 1330 rear pinion yoke and solid spicer u joints and 1350 front slip yoke with solid spicer u joints.
Nobody makes a 1330 front slip yoke for a Tremec so your choices are either 1310 or 1350.
Give DynoTech a call, their customer service was awesome.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Wat horsepower are you running....upto 450 a 1310/1330 combo u joints is fine and can handle it. If it's higher than 500 go with a 1350 and you may have to open the driveshaft tunnel.
I heard of a guy who made a 1330 bolt together front u-joint setup.
I plan on talking to my local driveshaft shop about that one.
I will keep you posted.
I have 550 ft-lbs, so no 1310 for me.
I know the 1350 version is stronger and may be easier, but I am really trying to stay away from permanent body mods.
I'm OK with a few bolt-on mods.
This is the Corvette version of the TH400 yoke, which bolts together. I will ask my driveshaft shop if they can flip this around and weld driveshaft tube to it. At least one guy has done this. Cut it down, weld on a sleeve, whatever.
Last edited by leigh1322; Jul 4, 2024 at 09:35 AM.
Thanks Everyone! A lot of great info. I don't expect more than about 350 HP/ maybe 375- ish Torque from my recent "street build." I'm going pretty close to stock L46 engine specs, so it sounds like 1310's would be fine. While doing all the work to retrofit for the TKX though, it, might not hurt to have the extra strength of the 1350's, in case I, or anyone else down the line, decide to up the HP.
Thanks Everyone! A lot of great info. I don't expect more than about 350 HP/ maybe 375- ish Torque from my recent "street build." I'm going pretty close to stock L46 engine specs, so it sounds like 1310's would be fine. While doing all the work to retrofit for the TKX though, it, might not hurt to have the extra strength of the 1350's, in case I, or anyone else down the line, decide to up the HP.
for all the extra work to get the 1350’s in, I would just put in the 1310’s and not worry about them.
I would install solid Spicer u joints!
OldCarBum - If using a 1 piece solid yoke in the front, is there a way to remove the driveshaft without dropping the differential? I crawled under there and see a cross member at the rear, that shaft sits above/into.
Yes. That is the issue.
The rear crossmember in front of the diff prevents the rear of the driveshaft from dropping down, like every solid rear axle car on the planet.
So a C3 needs to unbolt the front of the driveshaft, the front can drop down, and it will slide out that way, front first.
That front u-joint needs to unbolt, somehow, someway.
I remember reading one guy loosened his rear diff, or crossmember, lowered it some or moved it just an inch or two, and that gave him enough room to wiggle the driveshaft back enough that it would slide down and out the front. He only had the bolt together rear joint at the diff yoke. But that would mean the d/s would have to move rearward ~6 inches, for the front yoke to pop out. He said he did it, that's all I know.
OldCarBum - If using a 1 piece solid yoke in the front, is there a way to remove the driveshaft without dropping the differential? I crawled under there and see a cross member at the rear, that shaft sits above/into.
With this style you can remove driveshaft without issues. Unbolt at the transmission end. Slide the yoke into the trans, and pull the driveshaft from the diff.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Without reinventing the wheel you need it split at both ends. You can split the yoke like normal or have a custom shaft end made that is split...that would be more expensive but a viable solution, you just have to buy a sacrificial yoke to have cut up to make the front end....I would contact the driveshaft shop and see how much more it would cost to make the custom 1330 split front driveshaft. You have to make a custom shaft or shorten and custom the stock one either way. Either way the shop has to be involved.
Personally I like modifying the 1330 front yoke to make the split shaft end. That's ingenious and thinking outside the box
Leigh for the win....you win this week's bran muffin gluten free soy based donut....
Slip Yoke for TKX Conversion on C3?
