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check the front bracket for the type- if you have 1/4 steel plates welded on each side, those are the best. If not, you have a pre 69 bracket and should not use it. Check the tongue bracket on the frame, the hole cracks and breaks. If it's bad you may still be able to buy a new one and weld it in. Don't use a poly snubber bushing they're junk. Make sure the new rubber bushing has a steel sleeve in it. Should have but some don't.
It has the plates welded to it. I will clean it up over the weekend and look for obvious cracks. I am looking for a bushing replacement now. That sucked to remove, even on 12k jack stands (front end is on ramps). Seal should be a blast! Thank you for the advice.
Last edited by USMC6113; Jul 26, 2024 at 09:47 PM.
Yup, 10 years ago or so I did that diff pinion seal on Jack stands in my 77. Yes real fun indeed!
Count threads, mark everything you can think of. And it'll still be a blast!
Mine is still drip free! So it can be done.
Oh, and on the poly snubber bushing. my rubber one was perished back in the 1990's. As no one told me not to use poly, I just went ahead and did.
It's 2024 and that poly bushing is still fine. And yes I was looking at it just a few weeks ago.
So, make up your own mind on that one I would say.
Yup, 10 years ago or so I did that diff pinion seal on Jack stands in my 77. Yes real fun indeed!
Count threads, mark everything you can think of. And it'll still be a blast!
Mine is still drip free! So it can be done.
Oh, and on the poly snubber bushing. my rubber one was perished back in the 1990's. As no one told me not to use poly, I just went ahead and did.
It's 2024 and that poly bushing is still fine. And yes I was looking at it just a few weeks ago.
So, make up your own mind on that one I would say.
Thanks, I marked the nut and D/S. In case anyone needs to know the nut that holds the yoke on the pinion is 1 1/8". I have to switch my "lift" around to break torque on the nut. It's a mess under there! On a positive note, I don't notice much play at all under there. Hubs don't wiggle, no noticeable end play. Shafts all seem solid, thankfully.
How do you create the 1/8" gap when installing the SKF 17190 pinion seal? I have a '69 350 and had a pinion seal installed (Yukon YMS8460N) and it's leaking slightly after 3 months. The Yukon seal was supposed to be "correct" but it's leaking and I see it is slightly smaller in width (1/16") than the SKF 17190 seal I just bought and that may explain the slight seal leak I have (see photo - Yukon seal in red, SKF seal in green). I have new ones of each seal to compare as it took me forever to research the correct seal to use. Anyway, I'm not sure I understand how the 1/8" gap is created evenly between the seal flange and the differential housing. Is there a gauge or other tool used to achieve the 1/8" gap so it is even around the seal?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by brookiez28; Apr 13, 2025 at 09:49 AM.
Reason: Question clarification
Disregard the 1/8" gap. That was from the 60's but by the 70's QC wasn't as good and the bore depth varies. I carefully seat the seal in the bore without distorting it. You can measure the fitment of the seal to the yoke.
I do not use Yukon parts, I have used SKF/CR for the past 25 years without issue. Proper prep & installation is the key.
I check every seal fit to make sure there is no interference with the yoke shield and seal rides on the OD of the yoke. With 12 bolts there were more bore issues, and a thinner seal was needed.
