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Know the seal flange does NOT get hammered down flush with the housing. You need ~1/8” gap.
Be sure you mark the nut location relative to pinion so you don’t crush the crush sleeve further.
Be sure to seal the splines.
No I have not. I have read several forums and plan on reading a few more. I intend on indexing the nut. Then measuring how much the current one sticks out. Remove old, tap in new just so I can get the nut back on. Using the nut, I will gently press in the new seal until the depth is correct and my index marks are hopefully close. I will seal the splines.
I think everything is important here .mine was leaking and I just did the seal when it was out of the car about a year ago the sealing of the splines was where it was leaking and not the seal itself just make sure that it’s real clean and use some solvent to remove all traces of oil before sealer
I think everything is important here .mine was leaking and I just did the seal when it was out of the car about a year ago the sealing of the splines was where it was leaking and not the seal itself just make sure that it’s real clean and use some solvent to remove all traces of oil before sealer
Before reinstalling the pinion yoke, thoroughly clean the splines on the pinion and the yoke. Apply a thin coat of Permatex to both (not so much that you push the excess into the bearing rollers).
Before reinstalling the pinion yoke, thoroughly clean the splines on the pinion and the yoke. Apply a thin coat of Permatex to both (not so much that you push the excess into the bearing rollers).
Note if you have an original 80-82 diff, the seal is different and the diff is different. They are aluminum with a cast in front bracket, totally different setup and more of a challenge on the car.
Just to be sure, can I remove the diff carrier support bracket with the rear of the car on jack stands? Looks OK, but book says lift on a hoist. I have the cross member to bracket mount bolt already out. The top half of the rubber bumper is shot. Bottom bumper is on its last leg.
Last edited by USMC6113; Jul 26, 2024 at 03:01 PM.
Yes you can but it is not easy. These x-members are notoriously stubbornly “stuck” after many years. Search the forum for posts on how it is done. Be safe!
Yes you can but it is not easy. These x-members are notoriously stubbornly “stuck” after many years. Search the forum for posts on how it is done. Be safe!
I'm not trying to remove the crossmember. I'm asking about the bracket that goes from the crossmember to the front of the differential. Crossmember is welded in. Got it out, thank you.
Last edited by USMC6113; Jul 26, 2024 at 07:28 PM.
check the front bracket for the type- if you have 1/4 steel plates welded on each side, those are the best. If not, you have a pre 69 bracket and should not use it. Check the tongue bracket on the frame, the hole cracks and breaks. If it's bad you may still be able to buy a new one and weld it in. Don't use a poly snubber bushing they're junk. Make sure the new rubber bushing has a steel sleeve in it. Should have but some don't.
