Unstable dwell
I disassembled and removed the distributor shaft and sure enough, there was play between the top of the plate and the retaining ring. I put a small flat piece of metal over the top of the bushing to try and spread the load and gently tapped it down with a hammer until there was no vertical play on the plate but i could only just turn the retaining ring freely with a hint of friction. During the process i kept inserting the shaft to make sure there were no signs of the top busing going out of alignment with the bottom. No issues, shaft slides in seamlessly after closing the gap.
While i was as it i installed the new breaker plate i had to rule out any issues with the old plate, despite the old plate feeling fine. Now the breaker plate is rock solid in ALL directions. Re-shimmed the shaft end play once reassembled and happy with it now.
Now with it gapped to 0.018 i got it running. The timing gun is still struggling to give a stable reading, bouncing between 32% and 45%. If i try and close the points gap to increase the reading it doesn't seem to move. Might get the odd flicker into the 50% range but closing the gap further causes the car to cut out irrespective of adjusting the timing so looks like the dwell reading function is useless on the timing gun.
When i went back to my dwell meter which works when cranking the engine only, i was getting a much more stable reading now.
As my gauge only has 4 and 6 cylinder scales (weren't many V8's back in the day in the UK) i need to convert the reading.
360*/8 cam lobes = 45* periods, 30* dwell / 45* period x 100 = 66.667%
Working that backwards to suit the 4-cylinder scale on my gauge is 66.667/100 x 90* = 60* dwell angle (4-cyl). This aligns with the comment on the gauge scale gauge to halve for 8-cylinders. I wasn't sure whether i was meant to be aiming for 15 or 60 previously.
The gauge reading now varies between 55*-62*. Halving that gives 27.5* to 31* actual, which is in the right ball park, it spends more time around 58* so 29 degrees. I took the cap off and measured the points gap and i'm at about 0.016" which aligns with the dwell meter and the intial value of 0.016" if gapping by feeler gauge. Happy with that.
Given the reading is taken while cranking, not having the battery at fully charged could mean variance in the speed the engine is being turned over, so i've now got the battery on charge and hoping i get an even better reading with less bounce with a strong battery. Makes me wonder if my old battery was adding to my issues previously wile trying to take a reading. Think i'm going to have to find myself an analogue meter that works while running, any specific makes i should keep an eye out for on fleabay etc that folks can recommend?
Now just need to look at my timing and see why it wasn't even attempting to fire once i had the gap set as above. Need the wife to get home from work for that though so that's it for now. Feels like i'm slowly getting there












