Door hinge shims
#1
Racer
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Door hinge shims
I'm fitting the front clip and doors back on a 71 and it seems to be an excessive amount of hinge shims required to get the doors flush with the fenders.
The top hinges have 2 shims and the bottom hinges have 4/5 shims. This places the doors flush with the fenders at the front and rear however I'm a bit concerned that with this many shims on the bottom hinge the weather strip (yet to be fitted) will not seal properly.
I would just like to get an idea of how many shims other vettes have. Thanks.
Brad.
The top hinges have 2 shims and the bottom hinges have 4/5 shims. This places the doors flush with the fenders at the front and rear however I'm a bit concerned that with this many shims on the bottom hinge the weather strip (yet to be fitted) will not seal properly.
I would just like to get an idea of how many shims other vettes have. Thanks.
Brad.
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Hi Brad,
My 71 had none at the top and 1 at the bottom. But since you've had the front clip off, I can understand you needing more. How does the top, rear corner of the fender fit where it curves around the windshield? Is it close to the windshield as it should be?
Generally people find the new weather-strip is too 'puffy' so hopefully yours will be just right.
Regards,
Alan
My 71 had none at the top and 1 at the bottom. But since you've had the front clip off, I can understand you needing more. How does the top, rear corner of the fender fit where it curves around the windshield? Is it close to the windshield as it should be?
Generally people find the new weather-strip is too 'puffy' so hopefully yours will be just right.
Regards,
Alan
#6
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Hi Brad,
My 71 had none at the top and 1 at the bottom. But since you've had the front clip off, I can understand you needing more. How does the top, rear corner of the fender fit where it curves around the windshield? Is it close to the windshield as it should be?
Generally people find the new weather-strip is too 'puffy' so hopefully yours will be just right.
Regards,
Alan
My 71 had none at the top and 1 at the bottom. But since you've had the front clip off, I can understand you needing more. How does the top, rear corner of the fender fit where it curves around the windshield? Is it close to the windshield as it should be?
Generally people find the new weather-strip is too 'puffy' so hopefully yours will be just right.
Regards,
Alan
I've left a 3/16" gap between the wiper door and the top part of the fenders. It curves around close to the windshield and ends up touching the outside of the windshield pillar (just below the stainless side windshield moulding).
Seems like it might be no two cars are the same.
Brad.
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St. Jude Donor '08
#10
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I still have not bonded the front clip in place and only been dry fitting it. All the old bonding adhesive from the fender and bonding areas of the firewall have been removed so that it will be as tight a fit as possible. It still requires 2 top, 5 bottom to even the front of the doors with the fenders.
I'm just abit concerned with that many shims on the bottom the door weather strip will not seal properly.
Seem I'm not alone with that many bottom shim and as Alan said new weather strips will hopefully be ok.
Brad.
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Hi Brad,
The door gap on the rear of the door in your second picture looks good.
I'm concerned that you say the rear of the front fender touches the windshield post. I think it should be close, but not touch. Also, have you allowed for the piece of SS trim at the rear of the fender?
Remember to take a good look at the gap between the rear of the right fender and the top/front of the right door. This is a problem on MANY cars, (the gap is too big), I think the front fender was not molded in the right shape at this point.
Regards,
Alan
The door gap on the rear of the door in your second picture looks good.
I'm concerned that you say the rear of the front fender touches the windshield post. I think it should be close, but not touch. Also, have you allowed for the piece of SS trim at the rear of the fender?
Remember to take a good look at the gap between the rear of the right fender and the top/front of the right door. This is a problem on MANY cars, (the gap is too big), I think the front fender was not molded in the right shape at this point.
Regards,
Alan
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Hi Brad,
The door gap on the rear of the door in your second picture looks good.
I'm concerned that you say the rear of the front fender touches the windshield post. I think it should be close, but not touch. Also, have you allowed for the piece of SS trim at the rear of the fender?
Remember to take a good look at the gap between the rear of the right fender and the top/front of the right door. This is a problem on MANY cars, (the gap is too big), I think the front fender was not molded in the right shape at this point.
Regards,
Alan
The door gap on the rear of the door in your second picture looks good.
I'm concerned that you say the rear of the front fender touches the windshield post. I think it should be close, but not touch. Also, have you allowed for the piece of SS trim at the rear of the fender?
Remember to take a good look at the gap between the rear of the right fender and the top/front of the right door. This is a problem on MANY cars, (the gap is too big), I think the front fender was not molded in the right shape at this point.
Regards,
Alan
The rear top part of the fenders are only just touching the sides of the windshield post. I have also fitted the SS wiper door trim and both SS corner trim pieces and it all lines up good.
I know what you mean about the right top/front door gap, the fender is not quite the same shape as the door. I have added fiberglass to the rear section of both front fenders and will recut the front door gaps when the clip is bonded back in place.
The biggest problem I have here is that I live in a remote area of Australia and what seems like a million miles from any other vettes. However I will be going to Carlisle later this month so I will have a chance to check out other cars.
Regards
Brad.
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Hi Brad,
If you haven't be to Carlisle before you're in for a real treat. Do you know that you can also pay to enter on Thursday? All the event info says things start on Friday but MANY people come on Thursday. Only the main gate is open and that is where you can buy your pass to get in. It will most likely be HOT,HOT,HOT. So be prepared.
Many people have done the 'fix' to the door and fender you mention.
Do you know about the NCRS Chapter in Australia ?
Regards,
Alan
If you haven't be to Carlisle before you're in for a real treat. Do you know that you can also pay to enter on Thursday? All the event info says things start on Friday but MANY people come on Thursday. Only the main gate is open and that is where you can buy your pass to get in. It will most likely be HOT,HOT,HOT. So be prepared.
Many people have done the 'fix' to the door and fender you mention.
Do you know about the NCRS Chapter in Australia ?
Regards,
Alan
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#15
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Hi Brad,
If you haven't be to Carlisle before you're in for a real treat. Do you know that you can also pay to enter on Thursday? All the event info says things start on Friday but MANY people come on Thursday. Only the main gate is open and that is where you can buy your pass to get in. It will most likely be HOT,HOT,HOT. So be prepared.
Many people have done the 'fix' to the door and fender you mention.
Do you know about the NCRS Chapter in Australia ?
Regards,
Alan
If you haven't be to Carlisle before you're in for a real treat. Do you know that you can also pay to enter on Thursday? All the event info says things start on Friday but MANY people come on Thursday. Only the main gate is open and that is where you can buy your pass to get in. It will most likely be HOT,HOT,HOT. So be prepared.
Many people have done the 'fix' to the door and fender you mention.
Do you know about the NCRS Chapter in Australia ?
Regards,
Alan
I went to Carlisle in 2006 and loved it. Wanted to go last year but was to busy with work.
I will be arriving there Thursday afternoon so will possibly go then.
I have heard about the NCRS here but I believe its on the east coast. I live in the north of West Australia so I don't get over that side of Australia much.
Regards
Brad.
#16
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Currently the front door gaps are very close, about 1/16". When I bond the clip back on I will use the front of the doors as a guide and scribe a line 3/16" in on the fender. The excess material can be cut with a die grinder and small cutting disc and finished off sanding by hand.
On the rear door gaps I used a piece 3/16" plastic as a measure to make sure the gap was even top to bottom.
Regards
Brad.
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Just to add a little more to the gap discussion, here are 3 in-progess photos. I think there were about 4 more steps until the fellow who was teaching me said I was done.
Regards,
Alan
The most difficult area was where the rear of the door meets the rear quarter and the sail panel. You can see it in the last picture.
Regards,
Alan
The most difficult area was where the rear of the door meets the rear quarter and the sail panel. You can see it in the last picture.
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#19
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Hope this has been of some help.
Brad
#20
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Just to add a little more to the gap discussion, here are 3 in-progess photos. I think there were about 4 more steps until the fellow who was teaching me said I was done.
Regards,
Alan
The most difficult area was where the rear of the door meets the rear quarter and the sail panel. You can see it in the last picture.
Regards,
Alan
The most difficult area was where the rear of the door meets the rear quarter and the sail panel. You can see it in the last picture.
The pictures look good. When I was in Carlisle last time I could'nt believe how bad the panel fit is on these cars. With some extra time and effort they can be made to fit good.
Regards
Brad.