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It was finally time to bolt the battery ground to the frame. As I aligned the bolt and tightened, it felt grotty. So, I backed it out, chased the threads (it felt weird) and tired again, and… nothing. The threads were gone.
I’m figuring there was a nut welded on inside of frame that fell off.
Anybody have a recommendation on an elegant fix for this ?
How about a nutsert. These are rivets with a thread.
google it, Ive used them before very solid. They will only add another 60 seconds to the job, lol
Rivnuts is what we call them. Just be careful with those as they tend to start turning in the hole when trying to loosen them. If that happens you're screwed.
I don't think I'd use a rivnut on a ground connection. Just adding another point where there could be a poor connection and possibility of corrosion.
The frame rail is pretty thick.. When I installed my EFI fuel filter I drilled a hole in the frame rail near the tank and tapped it. It holds the Adel clamp holding my fuel filter just fine.
With the risks of corrosion I chose to run the fuel pump wires up to the battery. I would probably either Tap the hole or put a Heli-coil in the hole and use some lock-tite to secure it in place. If worse comes to worse use a good lock washer and secure it tightly.
The ground connection should be covered in battery grease to prevent any air from getting into the connection. Battery grease is available at auto parts stores, do not use Die-Electric grease on the battery connections. Die Electric grease is not conductive and will not help your electrical connections.
DorianC3
You could get one of these Double-ended stud bolts in Stainless...... give you a big nut surface to weld onto frame and also a surface for the lead to attach.....
DorianC3
You could get one of these Double-ended stud bolts in Stainless...... give you a big nut surface to weld onto frame and also a surface for the lead to attach.....
I really like this idea!
My only concern, for me and my welding skills would be welding the stainless to the frame.
If you are a welder and have the right equipment it would be great.
If you could find the same stud in plain steel it might be even better.
Should be findable in regular steel......but anyway I've welded stainless to regular steel a few times. Seems to weld easily and sticks nicely. And I'm no professional welder...but I like to use stainless when I can just to avoid annoying rusty fasteners later. Methinks it's not a terrible concern in this case for a component not doing heavy load-bearing.
Rivnuts is what we call them. Just be careful with those as they tend to start turning in the hole when trying to loosen them. If that happens you're screwed.
I don't think I'd use a rivnut on a ground connection. Just adding another point where there could be a poor connection and possibility of corrosion.
The frame rail is pretty thick.. When I installed my EFI fuel filter I drilled a hole in the frame rail near the tank and tapped it. It holds the Adel clamp holding my fuel filter just fine.
Depends on the type of rivnut you use. Use a steel insert vs aluminum. As for the thickness of the material. These work on 5/32” thick material.
So if you want to look a bit stock go down to Ace Hardware and get a nut that has the washer flange built in. Drill the hole in the frame so the flange nut will sit almost flush. Then weld.
So if you want to look a bit stock go down to Ace Hardware and get a nut that has the washer flange built in. Drill the hole in the frame so the flange nut will sit almost flush. Then weld.
I like that solution. Clever! My only reservation is that it will ruin the powder coating there. But this does give me food for thought
I'd ruin the powder coating there. Wouldn't hesitate.
One. Who is under your car looking at this? Kick them really hard and tell em to get out from under your car! They shouldn't be under there.
Two, touch up the area with some paint to help prevent corrosion.
Three, a really, really good battery ground connection is far more important than the silly powder coat underneath your car where no one sees!
And nut serts, rivnuts tend to spin out creating issues down the line.
And yes I have drilled and tapped my frame for EFI filter/regulator mounting and additional fuel line clips, the frame is only 3mm thick. It can be tapped with a fine thread tap. But that still only gives you about 2 threads. Not real great for something like a battery cable that is likely to be removed and reinstalled many times.
I'd ruin the powder coating there. Wouldn't hesitate.
One. Who is under your car looking at this? Kick them really hard and tell em to get out from under your car! They shouldn't be under there.
Agreed. The more I think about it… the best solution is as you say… take no chances. Weld !!
Originally Posted by 4-vettes
…a really, really good battery ground connection is far more important than the silly powder coat underneath your car where no one.
I would not use a rivenut- it needs to be tight and a difference in material ( aluminum) could come loose and really wreck you day out driving.
Better/way easier than welding
I would get a longer bolt- with a star washer- clean up the hole for a good fit.
With some wire /tape - feed the wire from the back side hole in the frame and pull it though-
A jam nut would be preferred to hold in place- but regular bolt is fine.
Then bolt down the cable end wit another star washer.
I see two options. The first and the best is to weld something in place. Nut, stud, whatever. The second would be to drill another hole and tap it. Problem is you only have a few threads and the rest of stripping them is high. A rivnut isn’t going to work long term. Eventually you get corrosion and a lousy ground, and you get stranded somewhere.
After I had my chassis all beautifully powder coated, I found I had forgotten to weld the clutch Z bar bracket on to the frame.
I was pissed at myself.
I cleaned all the powder coating from the frame, about 1” around where I needed to weld.
After welding the bracket to the frame, I masked the area about 6” away from the bracket and feathered primer to the bracket.
I tried three different rattle can black satin paints I had on the shelf and found that VHT satin black hi heat engine enamel was an absolute perfect match for the powder coat.
I applied three coats, let it sit for a few days then lightly buffed it.
Even knowing, I can’t see any difference.
Weld a nut on and paint.
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