Water Pump and Thermostat help
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Instructor
Joined: May 2018
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Water Pump and Thermostat help
I have a rebuilt built L82 Short block (all original forged parts)with the Edelbrock 5089 E street heads , with a flat tappet comp cam CS265DEH-10. My builder recommended this cam because I wanted a strong mid-range torque. 442/ 465 265/269 110 LS. The L82 Cam had similar lift numbers but this cam has high duration.. All that being said I am still running the original radiator. My water pump is a Gates cast iron. What degree thermostat should I run and where Do you drill the holes in it if recommended. I am getting close to firing up the engine and don't want any overheating issues. Any help would be great. Thanks!!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 753
From: Doctors Inlet Florida
Depends on where you live. If you live down south run a 160 degree stat. If you live up north and need a heater, run a 180. I like Stewart water pumps and the corresponding thermostat that they require.
Corvettes always run hotter than the thermostat rating anyway.
Corvettes always run hotter than the thermostat rating anyway.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Remember. The temp specs on a thermo is not where the engine temp will remain.
But rather, that is the spec where the thermo BEGINS to cool.
Smog engines preferred hot-hot-hot 195 thermos.
Some of us prefer lower. I am a firm believer that to begin cooling sooner is better all around.
Therefore, a 160 or 180 is an excellent thermo for your modified mill.
Brand? IDK. Maybe a Stant.
The edge, rim, flange or brim, what ever you want to call it, can be drilled with an 1/8" bit at two locations. That will allow some coolant to circulate immediately at start-up, will help burp the "fresh" system and can alleviate cavitation at the water-neck.
Some performance units come predrilled.
I highly recommend Permatex Water Pump & Water-Neck RTV sealant for your gaskets. AutoZone has it, small squeeze tube $8.
Its glycol proof. (Most are not)
But rather, that is the spec where the thermo BEGINS to cool.
Smog engines preferred hot-hot-hot 195 thermos.
Some of us prefer lower. I am a firm believer that to begin cooling sooner is better all around.
Therefore, a 160 or 180 is an excellent thermo for your modified mill.
Brand? IDK. Maybe a Stant.
The edge, rim, flange or brim, what ever you want to call it, can be drilled with an 1/8" bit at two locations. That will allow some coolant to circulate immediately at start-up, will help burp the "fresh" system and can alleviate cavitation at the water-neck.
Some performance units come predrilled.
I highly recommend Permatex Water Pump & Water-Neck RTV sealant for your gaskets. AutoZone has it, small squeeze tube $8.
Its glycol proof. (Most are not)
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Your engine sounds similar to mine if not slightly milder.
I've run high flow and standard flow water pumps and have not really seen much difference in actual cooling.
As per thermostat, I would recommend a 180 degree HIGH FLOW thermostat. In this department I have seen a difference in cooling. I run a Miloden 180 High flow thermostat, currently a standard flow pump, a 4 row Champion radiator with C5 electric fans. And all kinds of electrical modifications to support and run those fans.
I've run high flow and standard flow water pumps and have not really seen much difference in actual cooling.
As per thermostat, I would recommend a 180 degree HIGH FLOW thermostat. In this department I have seen a difference in cooling. I run a Miloden 180 High flow thermostat, currently a standard flow pump, a 4 row Champion radiator with C5 electric fans. And all kinds of electrical modifications to support and run those fans.
