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Oh, my 1977 Corvette I want to replace my ignition switch the one that is mounted on the bottom of the steering column. Can somebody tell me how to do this without taking the the steering column off? Is there a way to do this by going underneath the dash finding the switch and just taking it off ? Is it that simple ? probably not. Can somebody tell me the simplest way to get this off if there is one .thank you all for helping me in the past I appreciate it.
Well you can pull the left hand dash assembly. But generally you will want to lower your column just to do that.
Me, I'd just pull the column. Unplug the wiring. Undo the rag joint. Remove the lower vent crossover tube. Unbolt it and pull it.
Put it on the kitchen table, swap out the switch and adjust it checking with a ohm meter that everything is working correctly. Then put it back in.
Actually not hard.
You may want to find a person who specializes in steering column repairs. My 73 with tilt/ telescoping column had one of the bearing assembly wear out. I had previously replaced the turn signal switch, but knew that the bearing was a good bit further down. I found a guy that repaired it for $ 300. Best money I ever spent, just like using Lars to restore my Quadrajet. Sometimes it’s better to pay for a repairman, especially when it involves the steering column and all its associated parts. You may be able to find a repair guy who is mobile, do some searching. Good Luck.
No, that switch is mounted externally. No real need for such extreams. It's just a pain to get to. Of course this is by design. Wouldn't want it easy to hot wire.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Remove the panels from underneath the steering column. Remove the 9/16" head nuts holding the column up and pull the column down a tad - you don't need to pull it down far. You can then see and reach the two 5/16" hex head screws that hold the switch to the top of the column about 6" up from the firewall. Pull those screws, lift the switch up a little to disengage it from the push/pull rod, and bring the switch down with its harness/connector. You can then disconnect the harness and remove the switch. If you do not disconnect the harness, you can test the switch operation by simply sticking a small screwdriver into the push/pull rod hole and moving the switch through its positions, including engine start position. The 5/16" hex screws go through slotted holes in the switch, which provide your switch adjustment.
That sounds about right. I've never had one off or adjusted one this way. But should work. Lars perhaps has done it this way.
Adjusting it should just be a matter of getting the start position set right. The rest should follow.
Is it bad ? If it gets loose it can cause a no start issue .It is adjustable
Thank you all for the help. Not even sure if it the switch, just a wild guess. I drove the car here in Vegas at 110 degree that day and the car didn't over heat. Drove it for about 30 min. Went to start the car and saw the gen light was kind of dim. Turn the key and nothing. No clicks, nothing. So, I asked for a jump and when we hooked up the cables it turned over very fast as it always did. Got it home and and checked to see if it was the alternator that was bad. Nope, its fine. So, I'm thinking the ignition switch. I checked all the wires from the battery down to the starter, etc. Everything looked fine. I wire brushed every wire just in case. The other thing I think it might be is the starter selnoid getting too hot from the headers. I have the long tube headers and I don't have a heat shield over the starter or selonoid. Is it possible that could be the problem? Thank you all again for the help.
Heat soak in starters is a common problem. So yes that's a possibility. Also, looking at wiring is no way to test it. Doesn't matter what your wiring looks like. Voltage drop is a way to measure. Using a Ohm meter to measure resistance is a way to measure. Looking at it means very little indeed.
Heat soak in starters is a common problem. So yes that's a possibility. Also, looking at wiring is no way to test it. Doesn't matter what your wiring looks like. Voltage drop is a way to measure. Using an Ohm meter to measure resistance is a way to measure. Looking at it means very little indeed.
And your measuring voltage drop down which wires how? When you state there is no voltage drop. Which wires have you measured for voltage drop? How are you setting this up just to be clear.
And if your actual problem is not cranking hot. But the starter then works again an hour later after things cool down. Then I wouldn't be changing switches or even doing voltage drop tests.
I would be looking into a mini starter with heat shielding.
And your measuring voltage drop down which wires how? When you state there is no voltage drop. Which wires have you measured for voltage drop? How are you setting this up just to be clear.
And if your actual problem is not cranking hot. But the starter then works again an hour later after things cool down. Then I wouldn't be changing switches or even doing voltage drop tests.
I would be looking into a mini starter with heat shielding.
yes I agree with you. I don’t think it’s ignition switch either. I think it might be that there is no heat shield covering the starter solenoid and starter. I’m not sure if it happens only when it’s hot because it only happened one time so far.
It only happened one time.
It happened when the car was hot, just shut down.
It came good after the car cooled off
You have headers.
You have removed the factory starter heat shield.
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.
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How in the world did this thread start out as a ignition switch replacement?
.
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Wild stab in the dark here, perhaps electrical isn't Gary's strongest suit.
That's OK.
Get that heat shielding back on that starter and continue to monitor the situation.
Had the same issue once and yes it was the switch. You can test by bypassing the start circuit and jumping the terminals at the starter solenoid if it cranks as normal it's not a heat soaked starter motor.
It only happened one time.
It happened when the car was hot, just shut down.
It came good after the car cooled off
You have headers.
You have removed the factory starter heat shield.
.
.
.
How in the world did this thread start out as a ignition switch replacement?
.
.
Wild stab in the dark here, perhaps electrical isn't Gary's strongest suit.
That's OK.
Get that heat shielding back on that starter and continue to monitor the situation.
NO! Did I say it came good after the car cooled off 4-vettes? Whatever that means? NO I didn't! If you really read my post I said it started right up after someone gave me a jump. That's battery cables to battery to battery! You understand how to jump a battery, right? That's what I said. And I didn't remove the factory starter heat shield. I bought the car like that. So yes, it's missing. And, all I wanted was someone here to HELP me not insult me! I thought it might have been the ignition switch but I wasn't sure. I was trying to pick your brains and get your opinions of what it can be. If your gonna be a smart ***, don't respond. Go stab yourself instead! At least I know your strongest suit, so does everybody else. Thank you everyone else for the help.
Last edited by garykuter; Aug 4, 2024 at 05:42 AM.
Settle down killer. We are actually trying to help.
OK, so it fired right up when you got a jump start. Got it. Not clear really on how long that took.
None the less. It still really does sound like a starter heat soak issue.
Doesn't really matter how the heat shielding was removed from your starter. No need to get all bent out of shape over that. The point is. Get it back on and see what happens.
A lot of guys with headers on these cars have reported issues with starter heat soak. And maybe it's not your issue at all. But it's such a common problem that it's worth looking into.
That's all Gary.
Settle down killer. We are actually trying to help.
OK, so it fired right up when you got a jump start. Got it. Not clear really on how long that took.
None the less. It still really does sound like a starter heat soak issue.
Doesn't really matter how the heat shielding was removed from your starter. No need to get all bent out of shape over that. The point is. Get it back on and see what happens.
A lot of guys with headers on these cars have reported issues with starter heat soak. And maybe it's not your issue at all. But it's such a common problem that it's worth looking into.
That's all Gary.
Wild stab in the dark here, perhaps electrical isn't Gary's strongest suit.
I was asking for help and opinions from everybody. That’s all. I don’t need your opinion on what I’m strongest on. It took seconds to crank up when I jumped it. And I get bent out of shape when people make stupid comments. I’m asking for help not for comments. I have to go buy a heat shield or something. I’ll figure it out.