When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Okay so I have a 1980 corvette. Been learning stuff as I go. I’ve changed the tires and brake calipers. Still working on bleeding the brakes. It’s just been really hot outside and when it’s not hot it’s pouring.
I was letting it run today and I noticed a faint white smoke under the hood. It was very thin and barely able to see but I could see it. This car was my dad’s and I’m not sure when the last time he changed the oil was. I do plan on changing the oil but I want to know if the old oil can cause the smoke. The smoke was noticed on the right side of the car. To be more clear passenger side.
can the I’m gonna say 5 year old (at least) oil cause the smoke under the hood. The moment I noticed it I shut the car off.
good news is that it still starts up just fine and sounds wonderful.
Last edited by Fearthebest18; Aug 6, 2024 at 06:46 PM.
Look for oil dripping on the exhaust
Or pinpoint the source of the smoke.
even though the smoke is coming from under the hood I should check the exhaust?
I started the car and popped the hood and was just watching because I like to admire the beauty and noticed a faint whiteish grey smoke coming from the passenger side. Looked like it was coming from side of engine but didn’t want to leave it running longer and let it smoke so I shut it off
even though the smoke is coming from under the hood I should check the exhaust?
I started the car and popped the hood and was just watching because I like to admire the beauty and noticed a faint whiteish grey smoke coming from the passenger side. Looked like it was coming from side of engine but didn’t want to leave it running longer and let it smoke so I shut it off
Oil has a distinct smell when burning and has a blue/white appearance. From under the car, behind the passenger tire and using a flashlight, look at the side of the engine above the starter. If it's oil smoke from leaking valve covers there is more than likely an oily coating all over the bottom side of the block. Give the lower valve cover bolts a slight re-snug. If it's oil burning off, it will only last 5-10 minutes before it's gone.
Pull the dipstick to inspect the oil visually. If it looks amber and translucent, it's fine to run a while. Black needs to be changed sooner rather than later. If it looks at all like coffee w/cream, then don't run the engine any further.
As for bleeding the brakes, do a forum search for Motive bleeder and, if you're handy, look at making your own pressure bleeder. My homemade bleeder allowed me to completely flush and bleed my '67's brakes today in about 20-30 minutes, including topping off the master a few times for each reservoir.
Read your profile Chris.
So sorry to hear about your Dad. I had a pretty major heart attack just 2 weeks ago so my Son was really close to being in your shoes.
I kinda get the idea that your not yet super knowledgeable about this old car. But it was Dad's and by gum your gonna learn.
that's really, really cool.
We are all here to help. As stated above, all exhaust systems start at the engine. Most likely, but we are not there to look with you. You have a leak that is dripping onto the exhaust manifolds. This isn't the end of the world. Do try just going over the valve cover bolts first. They don't need to be super tight, just snug and a bit. Just check em that they are not loose. Run the engine. Don't freak out by the smoke but rather follow it down. Where is the starting point? Get pictures, lots of pictures if you can. Post them up. Lots of great people on here to look at these and then lend advice.
Oil has a distinct smell when burning and has a blue/white appearance. From under the car, behind the passenger tire and using a flashlight, look at the side of the engine above the starter. If it's oil smoke from leaking valve covers there is more than likely an oily coating all over the bottom side of the block. Give the lower valve cover bolts a slight re-snug. If it's oil burning off, it will only last 5-10 minutes before it's gone.
Pull the dipstick to inspect the oil visually. If it looks amber and translucent, it's fine to run a while. Black needs to be changed sooner rather than later. If it looks at all like coffee w/cream, then don't run the engine any further.
As for bleeding the brakes, do a forum search for Motive bleeder and, if you're handy, look at making your own pressure bleeder. My homemade bleeder allowed me to completely flush and bleed my '67's brakes today in about 20-30 minutes, including topping off the master a few times for each reservoir.
he bought a bleeder because he thought it was the brake lines he needed to change. Turns out th rear driver caliper was the issue. Seals for pistons were non existent in it lol
Read your profile Chris.
So sorry to hear about your Dad. I had a pretty major heart attack just 2 weeks ago so my Son was really close to being in your shoes.
I kinda get the idea that your not yet super knowledgeable about this old car. But it was Dad's and by gum your gonna learn.
that's really, really cool.
We are all here to help. As stated above, all exhaust systems start at the engine. Most likely, but we are not there to look with you. You have a leak that is dripping onto the exhaust manifolds. This isn't the end of the world. Do try just going over the valve cover bolts first. They don't need to be super tight, just snug and a bit. Just check em that they are not loose. Run the engine. Don't freak out by the smoke but rather follow it down. Where is the starting point? Get pictures, lots of pictures if you can. Post them up. Lots of great people on here to look at these and then lend advice.
I’ll take a look over the weekend if I’m lucky with work. I’m ready to get this car on the road but want to make sure it’s right. I have 2 dipsticks on passenger side. One is higher up than other. Would that one be for the oil? All the videos I’ve seen on YouTube show the oil dipstick on the driver side but if that’s the case then it’s non existent. But I know it has a dipstick. It has to be one of the ones on the passenger side
I’ll take a look over the weekend if I’m lucky with work. I’m ready to get this car on the road but want to make sure it’s right. I have 2 dipsticks on passenger side. One is higher up than other. Would that one be for the oil? All the videos I’ve seen on YouTube show the oil dipstick on the driver side but if that’s the case then it’s non existent. But I know it has a dipstick. It has to be one of the ones on the passenger side
The one towards the rear of the engine compartment is for the automatic transmission.
I have 2 dipsticks on passenger side. One is higher up than other. Would that one be for the oil? All the videos I’ve seen on YouTube show the oil dipstick on the driver side but if that’s the case then it’s non existent. But I know it has a dipstick. It has to be one of the ones on the passenger side
Which side the oil dipstick is on, for small blocks, changed over the years, so don't stress too much about that. The oil stick should be about midway, front to back, on the side of the engine and is about 24" long. As MelWff said, the "upper" sounds like the transmission stick and should be back by the firewall at the back of the engine; it will be quite a bit longer -- 36"? maybe.
Check oil level when the car is warm/hot, on a level surface, and not running. The transmission level is checked warm/hot, on a level surface, and while idling.
Change the oil before putting any more time running the engine! Lets get this C3 back on the road again so you can appreciate your Dad's old Corvette even more with a smile and bugs on the front teeth!
Whenever I start an engine that has sat a while it is not uncommon to see a little smoke as the dust burns off. A little oil or coolant might have leaked out and is being burned off the engine's hot parts.
I let one of my Corvettes sit for a couple years and I still changed the oil every year to keep the engine happy. I would start it up and run the engine to warm up and then change the new oil with zero miles on it. Older oil can start to break down and turn acidic. The old oil is probably not any good so drain it out and replace it with new fresh oil. I would suggest that you replace all the fluids in the vehicle.
Condensation will get water into your engine's oil and as the oil heats up the water is supposed to be boiled out. If you let an engine sit for years it can actually get a bunch of water inside it mixed with the oil and when the engine runs it gets really nasty and turns into a barely lubricating Milk shake looking mess.
The valve covers on an engine that sits tend to harden up. I used rubber valve cover gaskets because they tolerate some abuse cranking them down. People have a tendency to over torque the valve cover's when they start to leak. I would suggest a new set and just tighten it as directed.
Good luck and let us know if and when you have any questions regarding your Corvette. We are here to help fellow Corvette owners!
Change the oil before putting any more time running the engine! Lets get this C3 back on the road again so you can appreciate your Dad's old Corvette even more with a smile and bugs on the front teeth!
Whenever I start an engine that has sat a while it is not uncommon to see a little smoke as the dust burns off. A little oil or coolant might have leaked out and is being burned off the engine's hot parts.
I let one of my Corvettes sit for a couple years and I still changed the oil every year to keep the engine happy. I would start it up and run the engine to warm up and then change the new oil with zero miles on it. Older oil can start to break down and turn acidic. The old oil is probably not any good so drain it out and replace it with new fresh oil. I would suggest that you replace all the fluids in the vehicle.
Condensation will get water into your engine's oil and as the oil heats up the water is supposed to be boiled out. If you let an engine sit for years it can actually get a bunch of water inside it mixed with the oil and when the engine runs it gets really nasty and turns into a barely lubricating Milk shake looking mess.
The valve covers on an engine that sits tend to harden up. I used rubber valve cover gaskets because they tolerate some abuse cranking them down. People have a tendency to over torque the valve cover's when they start to leak. I would suggest a new set and just tighten it as directed.
Good luck and let us know if and when you have any questions regarding your Corvette. We are here to help fellow Corvette owners!
thank yall so much I appreciate all the help. By higher up here is what I mean. I’m standing on the passenger side of the car. There is one dip stick to the left and one to the right. Assuming the hood is closed. The one on the left is going to be closer to the hood than the one on the right. If what yall are saying is true than I want to check the dip stick on the right. If all else fails I want to check the shorter dipstick for the oil?
I planned on getting fresh fluids was going to start with brakes because that was the main issue. But brakes can wait.
thank yall so much I appreciate all the help. By higher up here is what I mean. I’m standing on the passenger side of the car. There is one dip stick to the left and one to the right. Assuming the hood is closed. The one on the left is going to be closer to the hood than the one on the right. If what yall are saying is true than I want to check the dip stick on the right. If all else fails I want to check the shorter dipstick for the oil?
I planned on getting fresh fluids was going to start with brakes because that was the main issue. But brakes can wait.
Left will be transmission (closest to the firewall). The fluid should be red and very distinguishable from the oil color from the dipstick on the right. Keep at it. These cars can be buggers!