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Boy, oh boy... that sucks.
I'm having a difficult time orienting to the area in the pics... but it looks like it's been broken for quite some time.
Do you know of any front end accidents? How does the passenger side look?
Boy, oh boy... that sucks.
I'm having a difficult time orienting to the area in the pics...
Do you know of any front end accidents? How does the passenger side look?
That needs professional welding repair, maybe that section of the frame completely replaced.
the pic without the yellow circle is from below. Under the car, I was reaching up to pull the power steering belt around but it was blocking it.
im unsure of any accidents, and the passenger side is totally fine.
Boy, oh boy... that sucks.
I'm having a difficult time orienting to the area in the pics... but it looks like it's been broken for quite some time.
Do you know of any front end accidents? How does the passenger side look?
I'm really struggling with these blurry photos as well.
I've been trying to understand, but really don't. First photo looks like a huge crack. But where?
it looks like the part that goes under fan blade crossmember pulled off frame rail and some damage under torn..
strange it ripped where it did, probably a hit.
i would take better pics including under the car so all can give better advice.. pics below is the area i assume is in your pics..
Dalkoe
so...it's just the mount directly in front of the power steering pulley? If so, and if the rest of the frame looks fine, then just squeeze it back together and give it a good clean weld.
My alignment shop inspected mine (ages ago) and told me to get it welded before doing the alignment --- he knew that that cracks could developed there. Mine just had slight hairline cracks.
BUT make sure the rest of the frame is not falling apart also...... no use welding a rusty noodle.
HOWEVER ---- take another picture of the underside... not sure what you're showing us here:
I gotcha now, it's that little "horn" that mounts the rear of the bottom a-arm.
Is it just on the fan side of the horn that is broken while the wheel side looks OK?
I think some further investigation needs to happen to see if the forward mount for that arm is crushed toward the frame. If the wheel took a sideways hit so that the front of the suspension took the brunt of the force it would pull on the rear weld at that spot.
I'd take it to a frame shop to do a check on the frame's true-ness to see if/where it's torqued and also do the repair as they see fit.
Last edited by barkingrats; Aug 12, 2024 at 01:39 PM.
Dalkoe
so...it's just the mount directly in front of the power steering pulley? If so, and if the rest of the frame looks fine, then just squeeze it back together and give it a good clean weld.
My alignment shop inspected mine (ages ago) and told me to get it welded before doing the alignment --- he knew that that cracks could developed there. Mine just had slight hairline cracks.
BUT make sure the rest of the frame is not falling apart also...... no use welding a rusty noodle.
HOWEVER ---- take another picture of the underside... not sure what you're showing us here:
I’ll have to get some better pictures
I’ve figured out it’s the lower control arm mounting bracket is cracked and peeling from the frame.
the yellow in the picture above is where it’s peeling from. The red is the power steering
the second picture is one I got from Google showing more of the actual bracket that’s peeling from the frame
Thinking further on this, I'm wondering if the opposite of what I crossed out above happened. The rear took the brunt of an impact and bent that horn inward. It was pulled back out but the wrinkle that was created made for a weak spot. You can see that the weld didn't fail, it's the steel in the horn that tore. It appears a weld repair was attempted.
Regardless, I don't think that's safe on the road until it's repaired.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Yes, bring it to a frame repair shop on a trailer and show them. They can align it and weld it back together. It's no big deal with the new machines provided they have the specs. You might need to call them and ask. If they don't you can find them here with the search function
Found a local mechanic whos a certified welder through a family member, taking the car in Sunday and should be done monday. He estimated about $200 for the repair(family discount). Ill post updates when i get the car back!
I have replaced one of those frame horn brackets too.
Unfortunately it is somewhat common.
Once you find a new bracket, the two lower a-arm bolts should be exactly 16.0" apart, and parallel, at the front & rear bushing bolt centers.
That number is not available anywhere.
David Howard measured 12 frames to get it.
Just make sure you find a good welder. That can do nice smooth welds.
It will be a bit** to replace.
Both sides of the crack need to be ground clean, or it will never hold.
I would do it right, even if it means pulling the engine for access, and grinding off the old bracket.
Anything less is just a patch.
I would check the entire frame for rust spots first.
The metal was originally .110" thick, you can measure with a micrometer.
Severe pitting or scale significantly weakens it.
A Arm Mount peeling from frame
