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I have been offered two different heads for my car and trying to pick the right setup.
Current Specs:
1980 4 speed 3:08 rear gear
1977 Truck 350 stock long block low miles
Edl performer intake
Q -jet
Hooker side pipes
The car is my summer daily driver. I would like to add a Cam and better heads but keep the stock short block. Cam i am pretty open on but realize my compression is on the lower side. i would like it to have a little chop if possible and be in the 300-350 (flywheel) HP range.
Now the heads i have access too:
#1. A set of Bow tie performance Phase 2 heads. 184 cc intake runners, 2.02/1.6 valves, 64cc. Set up with roller cam springs.Angle plugs.
#2. World products Sportsman 2. Light port work, 200cc intake runners, 2.02 1.6 valves 64cc
which heads would you recommend for my stock short block? I would like to keep my current headers, intake and carb. I understand that better bottom end parts would make much better use of either head but have other priorities at this time and am just looking for a little more pep from my 80.
Assuming they both have the correct mounting patterns for your intake and accessories I would go with the 184cc heads. They will be better suited for a daily driving type activities. I’m not sure what springs for a roller cam are, but I would try to find the specs on them to determine if the camshaft you select would work for them. Furthermore I would find out for sure what kind of deck height and piston dish/dome you’re dealing with to truly find out your compression ratio.
300-350 horsepower should be no problem with either one though.
i am told the phase 2 heads were on a 383 with a solid roller cam around 600 lift?? It was a pretty built motor with dual quads and a 671. If the springs have the right rate i would love to go retro roller cam and reuse them if possible. They do have the correct acc holes and the intake pattern is gen 1 sbc with 6 same angle bolts be head on intake side.
the headers are a big concern for me…. Some on here say they fit “better then with straight plugs”. Others say they had to run acell short plugs. Trying to find a member with the exact same combo to confirm.
I have no idea what the valve springs are rated at when they are open.
But it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that the engine those heads came from, (2 four-barrels sitting on a blower) is not a street cruiser.
Likely those heads have massive amount of spring pressure. That will beat the valve seats to death at cruising speed / RPMs.
A wise man would swap the springs out for something more realistic unless your Vette is for strip only.
Think, longevity valvetrain.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 13, 2024 at 08:34 PM.
Consider that for the same price as a new Holley carburetor, or a single aftermarket head, you can buy a complete, running, LS-based engine, that has better flowing aluminum heads, a roller cam, no combustion gas or coolant in the intake, and a host of other improvements made over 40 years of development. And you get EFI and coil on plug ignition for free!
There's a bit more to it, but if you see this as the first mod in a long line of mods, you might come out ahead with a complete swap.
I've said it on here many times Skip White Performance. He sells cheap heads that are almost as good as AFRs. He also sells Head and cam proven combos. Check them out before you buy anything.
I had run a pair of the sportsmans on a 383, they were ported and polished... and they kicked ***.... when i went 427, my son had the 383 rebuilt and kept the heds,,, cuz... they kicked ***... :-)
sportsman vote here..
im now running AFR 220 competition ported to 7K on my 427... 3rd gear sustained burn outs:-)
No interest in LS for this car. I Know they make a lot of power and the bang for buck is unreal and you can fit a carb but i just have no interest in an engine conversion at this time. I always thought a 8.1 swap would be a cool challenge but al my other vehicles have engine conversions ( gas to diesel, buick powered jeep etc..) and i want to keep the vette gen 1 sbc.
Valve seals will be replaced before install. One of the reasons i want to do heads is because my current stock heads have leaky valve seals.
unlike most i am not chasing power i just want a good runner that makes the power an early C3 SBC did. If i was going all out i would start from the crank up and build a 383 / 406. But that would be a whole engine build not a heads and cam swap.
i have looked at skip white, some really good combos, also looked at AFR and TF DH175’s and of course vortec heads but am looking to be a bit milder with this engine and these heads are under 300.
again thanks for the input guys and keep the comments coming.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
The only benefit of an LS over a later gen2 is it has really good factory heads... both have rollers...That being said you can put a retro roller in a gen 1. I won't get into available aluminum blocks because buy the time you buy, bore and resleeve the LS aluminum block you are into it the same as a aluminum aftermarket small block. LS motors aren't magical...its just an air pump like any other motor...if you already own the small block just rebuild it...no one accounts the cost of buying an LS in their budgets, or the ridiculous cost of adapters and headers. Then the cost of the new computer or the returned of the original one. Anyone who says it's cheap is a liar. Their is no such thing as building a motor with quality parts that will last. I can build a Chinese motor dirt cheap. It won't last a month the way I drive
I recommend another approach, build your car so it runs good instead of how it sounds.
My car sounds good but can back up how it sounds. there is a difference.compression,head flow camshaft gearing convertor are just some of things you need for a more aggressive cam.
I recommend another approach, build your car so it runs good instead of how it sounds.
My car sounds good but can back up how it sounds. there is a difference.compression,head flow camshaft gearing convertor are just some of things you need for a more aggressive cam.
this is a good point. Right now its bark is way worse then its bite with the side pipes. No converter as it is a 4 speed. Less money spent on heads means 3:55 or 3:73 gears.
i need to do valve stem seals and would like to step from the stock cam. This seems like the perfect time to swap out the smog heads with something a little better for not much cost. I am not looking to touch the short block whic i realize kills efficiency and does not maximize my 350’s power potential.
195cc heads are fine for the street if your camshaft is on the conservative side. Case in point, I have a Blueprint 350 cruiser engine in my Vette currently. The heads are 195cc however the camshaft is 202/212 duration@.050", 115 LSA. It idles smooth and I can ran down to 1000RPM's in 5th (3.31's and .68 OD) and still accelerate with no fuss. Not that one should be doing that but you get the idea.
Why I no longer have the TPI/megasquirt, well that's a whole another story.