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I'm installing a new Power Master mini starter and the lower bolt on the bell house cover is obstructing the lower left part of the starter mounting plate by about 3/32". See pics. Any issues just eliminating that bolt and letting the face of the starter motor mounting plate hold that corner of the cover in place? I don't really want to grind the starter motor to fit around that bolt if I can help it.
Thanks in advance!
Can’t you just rotate the flange on the starter motor so you can reach the bolt.? I did that on mine.
I'm not sure what you mean? I can clock the motor relative to the flange to better align the solenoid but that doesn't change the location of the flange relative to the block. The flange is shaped and drilled for 3 bolts so its orientation can't be changed in any way that I can see.
I had the same issue with my Power Master mini starter on my big block.
I ended up purchasing a new Lakewood inspection cover from Summit Racing.that is totally flat around the starter area and there is no mounting bolt hole.
It was a perfect fit to the bell housing and gave me plenty of clearance for the starter.
I’m sure you could just remove the bolt and you’d be fine.
I had the same issue with my Power Master mini starter on my big block.
I ended up purchasing a new Lakewood inspection cover from Summit Racing.that is totally flat around the starter area and there is no mounting bolt hole.
It was a perfect fit to the bell housing and gave me plenty of clearance for the starter.
I’m sure you could just remove the bolt and you’d be fine.
Thanks for this tip. Do you have a standard bell housing or the Lakewood bell housing? The listing for this product said its designed for the Lakewood kit so not sure if it also fits the standard 4 bolt bell housing?
Thanks for this tip. Do you have a standard bell housing or the Lakewood bell housing? The listing for this product said its designed for the Lakewood kit so not sure if it also fits the standard 4 bolt bell housing?
I have the standard bell housing.
I noticed the same note and called Lakewood who confirmed it would fit.
Looking at it with "What I would do".
I think I'd take that bolt out and then use my counter sunk drill bits and make that a countersunk screw. I have the countersunk screw big enough in my "big box of hardware".
That cover is thick enough and rigid enough that I think it would be fine if you just left that bolt out.
Looking at it with "What I would do".
I think I'd take that bolt out and then use my counter sunk drill bits and make that a countersunk screw. I have the countersunk screw big enough in my "big box of hardware".
That cover is thick enough and rigid enough that I think it would be fine if you just left that bolt out.
Hey, its a decent idea! That inspection plate is pretty thin (about 3/32") so I think you'd have to countersink into the block and flare the inspection cover into block in order for the countersunk screw to be flush. Other potential problem is that you'd have to remove the starter in order to remove the inspection cover moving forward. For me a new $35 inspection cover is an easier "lazy mans" approach