When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My dad and I can't get the front spindles to come out. The nut is loose on the top bolt. We jacked up the lower a-arm, put some blocks of wood under the upper a-arm and lowered the jack. The spring should have just pulled the spindle off of the top, but it didn't. How do we do this?
The upper ball joint should be easy. The easiest if you will replace the ball joint. Jack up the car but do not put a jack under the a arm. Just jack the car up so the spring is pulling down on the upper a arm. Loosen the ball joint nut until there is a good gap between the nut and the spindle.
Remember the spring is pulling down on this joint so do NOT remove the nut completely, only open up a good gap. If the joint is being removed us a pickle fork on the joint but the rubber cup gets destroyed. If you want to save the joint put a large hammer on one side held tight against the spindle and give it a crack with another big hammer on the other side of the spindle. This jars the tapper in the spindle and should break it loose with the help of the spring.
For sure a pickle fork will break it loose.
Good luck
Except where he said leave the nut attached, he should have used capital letters. You may also want to wrap a chain around the frame and through the spring. You can't use enough caution doing this, those springs are packing a bunch of energy. If one comes flying out and hits you, you may need your dad to call 911. If it misses you and hits something else there will definitely be some damage.
A chain through the spring and a floor jack under the control arm. I used a pickle fork so I could stand out of the way. I have never had a spring come loose, and never want to be around when one does. Call me paranoid, but I believe being cautious 100 times is better than being dead once!
A method that BSeery uses and recommended(and I recommend as well) is to use a pitman arm puller, or gear puller on the stud. Attach the stud of the gear puller to the bottom of the ball joint stud, and the arms of the gear puller to the top of the spindle. Then, start tightening the bolt on the gear puller and it will pull the spindle away from the ball joint. Make sure to hold the arms of the puller tight.
Also, to avoid problems w/ the spring, you may want to remove the lower ball joint first, and then release the spring. I hope you don't have the stock 300 lb(10 coil) springs, as they won't release w/o assistance of a spring compressor or the power of prayer.
Okay, so try a gear puller on the arm? You think it is easier to get the bottom out first? The thing is, I need to change the bushings on the a-arm and the ball joints, my alignment guy (and a Corvette owner; A '77 drag car and working on a perfect resto of a '63 SWC) said that they were shot, so I just him. I have the stock springs, so they won't remove without a compresser? Is it because they are too tall? Why is it nothing goes easy with my Corvette? Everything is always a bear. I just have to keep telling myself that it will all be worth it the first time I drive it.
They are no harder to work on then any other car. With a pickle fork and the method I describ I can not see any ball joint not comming loos. With the spring pulling down and the pickle fork inserted in the joint it will come apart.
You just lack experience. As for removing the spring once the upper ball joint is broke loose, the caliper is removed and tied back, the rotor removed. Place a good floor jack under the lower a arm, jack it up until the spindle pushes off the nut, remove the nut them slowly lower the jack. The long spring will slowly push the a arm down until it falls out. I have done this many times. You can remove the spring without a spring compressor. The stock springs can not be put back in with a compressor. The 460 and 550's I believe can.
Good luck, take care and stand to one side when lower the floor jack. I have 2 3 ton floor jacks for safety. The 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 ton jacks are alot smaller.
The stock springs cannot be put back in without a compressor. The 460 and 550's I believe can.
I have F41 springs, which are either 460 or 550's ??, and yes you definitely
can remove/replace the springs "without" a compressor.
The springs are much shorter than the stock springs. The coils are heavier.
Also, the pickle fork method never fails.
Another hint, if you have the pickle fork well pounded into the job and it still is not letting go, then give the spindle a good crack with a hammer on the outside of where the joint is connected. It WILL let go.
You just lack experience. As for removing the spring once the upper ball joint is broke loose, the caliper is removed and tied back, the rotor removed. Place a good floor jack under the lower a arm, jack it up until the spindle pushes off the nut, remove the nut them slowly lower the jack. The long spring will slowly push the a arm down until it falls out. I have done this many times. You can remove the spring without a spring compressor. The stock springs can not be put back in with a compressor. The 460 and 550's I believe can.
Good luck, take care and stand to one side when lower the floor jack. I have 2 3 ton floor jacks for safety. The 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 ton jacks are alot smaller.
Yes, I know that. I thought that the spring would come out, but Pacin' said it would not. My dad has been messing with cars since the 60's, drag racing professionally in the 70's and 80's and he was looking at it, so experience is abundant, it is just stuck.
I know you are getting frustrated with all the issues at hand, but look at what you are doing !!
All the suspension work that you are doing right now constitutes about half
the work in a full chassis resto. Believe it or not - you're making decent
progress at a good rate. Keep it up and someday it will be old hat.
That vette, with the suspension all done up new - like you are doing - is gonna
handle really NICE. You WILL be rewarded well for your major efforts.
And - yes - your hands will be clean again - someday. :lol: :lolg:
I just tore down the front suspension on my 69 and it took about a can full of PB blaster, a torch, a pickle fork, and some serious bloodshed before the spindles released from the ball joints. We actually ended up using the short 90degree bent end of a allen wrench as a shim between the spindle and the ball joint. This was so we could apply more direct force with the pickle fork and eventually pop the spindle loose. We set the allen wrench in with the ball joint stud in "behind" the bend in the allen wrench, then put the fork on top of the wrench and beat like mad :smash: :smash: :smash:
I was able to remove my 460s and install the 550s without using a compressor.
The 300 lb springs are at least 3" taller than the 460s, and I really think assistance from a spring compressor would be necessary to get them to clear the snubber bushing/bottom a-arm pocket.
I must admit I do not have any experience with the 300 lb springs, so the others would probably be of more assistance. Just be careful with the spring, you don't want to lose an eye/arm/pet.
The pickle fork is the best method, as others have said. Since you're replacing the ball joints, there is no need to worry about the pickle fork wrecking the dust boots. New ball joints should come w/ dust boots anyhow.