Hello all,
My builder set me these pics .He put the head in place and it looks like the studs will be too long and interfere with the exhaust manifold/headers. I do not have any exhaust manifolds yet. Hoping someone will give me some insight. Cheers!

 

Do you have a 1967?
What part number did you buy?

 

I do but with 074 heads I thought Is post in the C3 forum
I have this set: ARP INC. 135-4001

 

When you're building a custom engine, you do custom work. Cut the studs down to the length required. What's the problem? Does your engine builder not have basic tools and skills needed to do basic custom engine work?

Are you aware of the fact that using those studs on the engine that you cannot remove the heads from the engine with the engine in the car unless you extract the studs from the block with the heads on the block..? Hope you have a really good reason for using studs instead of ARP bolts... studs are a pain in the *** if you ever have to do engine maintenance with the engine in the car.

 

Instructions:
https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/135-4001.pdf

Thanks, but nowhere in the directions does it say "cut to desired length."

 

I think somebody ordered the wrong ones for your app.
I have a ARP catalog. Its a half-inch thick of every fastener you can imagine.

I bet ARP has the same diameter, same TPI but a half inch shorter studs.

 

I'm with Lars on this one. Custom engine work definitely falls outside of instructions.
Shortening studs is a pretty common issue. I certainly wouldn't bother my customer with something like this.
I would get the correct hardware or if time was a issue, often is. I would just shorten those that it is necessary.
As you don't even have headers yet, you probably have time to get the correct hardware.
I don't see a problem.

 

I guess I should have asked, "Does your engine builder (or whoever ordered the studs) not have the basic tools and skills required to measure and check for the correct studs to order?" If the studs are too long, and you screwed up on the order, cut them to the correct length - once they have been used and installed, you can't return them, so just fix the problem. This is no big deal and no issue. Only simple, basic craftsmanship required. As Doc stated, I can't imagine an engine builder even contacting you about this issue. This is entirely "in-scope" for the stuff you deal with and fix when you build a custom engine. Stud length requirements vary with block deck height, how much the heads have been milled, and head gasket thickness. ARP, not knowing all these variables, sizes the studs for the max length that could be required for these conditions with the parts combo you have given them. If the studs are a tad long - that's great. Always err on the long side. You just adjust them for your situation. That's what engine builders do. Good engine builders do an accurate measurement to determine the length actually required and order the studs by length so they don't have to trim down the "generic kit" studs.

Can you imagine them calling you up:
"Hey, Truett... those spark plugs you bought have a .040 gap instead of .035... we don't know what to do...!"
Truett says, "Well... how about you just fix it and install them."

My customers would fire me if I ever told them I couldn't put their engine together because a bolt was too long. Unbelievable. Just fix it and move on.

 

They likely were packaged wrong still that shouldn't slow you down . Arp studs have a broached end for an Allen wrench so it's simple to pull heads in the car, just an extra step. Don't cut the top off cut the bottom. But make sure the bottom has enough threads for full engagement.. shouldn't be a big deal.

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone. The builder sent me the pics because I was the one who ordered and supplied them based on tech support from Summit.(my first mistake) Problem already solved, simple fix as stated.

 

And people let summit recommend Cams

 

I know your engine build, and it does not require studs. vs bolts.
It will be no "stronger", less leak free, etc.
So zero advantage, other than looks.
And as mentioned, they can be a pain.

 

Oh, but it will be stronger.

Head studs are superior to head bolts. That's why those 800 horse to 2,000 horse engines use them.
It's not just for looks. Studs are for superior clamping force.

But you have to know how to install them in the block and they are more expensive.
Another disadvantage with studs is, the heads must be removed straight up & out.
Not always easy if a brake booster is near.

 

Yes but they are absolutely not needed on a 500HP engine.
If the stock head bolts are more than strong enough, and you make it even stronger, does it matter?
The forces will never increase.

Now rod bolts are another whole story. They are very rpm sensitive.
If you are ever going to take it to 6000rpm, I strongly advise putting in really good rod bolts.
Ones good to like 7500.
Overkill? Maybe. Maybe not.
It is like insurance in this case.
If you don't have them, with just ONE missed shift and you could be REAL sorry.
I have seen so many engines spin a rod, just 500rpm past their HP peak ...... sigh...

 

So what exactly do studs hurt. If it's unnecessary to you don't put them in your engine.

 

Follow up: ARP called me in responsive to asking them this question. They asked to measure the studs on the chance they were packed wrong. Turns out they were the are the wrong length. So they are sending me a new set. I know these are overkill but I like em'. Hats off to them for customer service. I said that the studs were "cut to fit" and they said that was not recommended as the cutting process creates high heat that could compromise the harness value even if they were cut on cutting saw that circulates cutting fluid to keep things cool. Leigh1322 (post #14) is a highly regarded Science teacher so he probably could expand on that notion, my build is based on what I learned from his build: Cheers!
His build:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ls6-build.html

 

I guess that ugly guy up in post # 6 guessed right.