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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 04:57 PM
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Default Brake clarification

Hey all, I just realized my 82 master cylinder has lost nearly all brake fluid on the rear (driver facing) bank only. The front bank is still full. Pretty sure it’s a slow leak. questions:

1) does the rear bank feed rear brakes on a 82?
2) other than visual inspection how can I find the slow leak?
3) do I need to bleed all 4 wheels

thanks
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 05:12 PM
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#1 Yes
#2 Has to be a "wet" spot on the inner side of tire, somewhere.
Or.
Slight possibility the rear Rez is peeing inside the booster.
But that would show up as a damp spot also.
#3. No sense bleeding the system until the leak is not only located but repaired.
Then the master MUST come off the car and be bench bled (its easy) because the rez was allowed to run dry.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 19, 2024 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 05:29 PM
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Appreciate it. For my own understanding, could you explain why I need to bleed the master seperate from the rest of the system?

And can I put fluid in without bleeding just to find the leak?
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 06:29 PM
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Yes, good idea. Put some DOT3 in just for testing will be fine.
Once the leak is found / repaired, THEN the master gets a bench bleed.
Otherwise, there will without a doubt be a bubble still in the Rez.

The master needs to be tilted up, down and all around to remove bubbles.
Hense the reason it goes in a vise.
Do Not stroke the MC piston in too far. 1- & 3/8-inches max.

<<<<<<<<<<Click on my avatar.
Look for photo albums bench bleeding, for tips.
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by nitan2k
Hey all, I just realized my 82 master cylinder has lost nearly all brake fluid on the rear (driver facing) bank only. The front bank is still full. Pretty sure it’s a slow leak. questions:
Originally Posted by nitan2k
Appreciate it. For my own understanding, could you explain why I need to bleed the master seperate from the rest of the system?
Any leak is pretty obvious with an oily coating on the tires, brake pads, suspension, exhaust, spare tire carrier, etc.
If the fluid in the master dipped below the port opening in the bottom of the reservoir then it would be best to bleed the entire system from top to bottom.
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 11:13 PM
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If “nearly” went empty, and never did, i would keep sealed and only fill and bleed when repairs are complete.
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 11:53 PM
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Nearly empty but not empty, keep it topped up. Much easier to bleed your brakes if you don't let it go dry.
And a visual inspection isn't that hard to perform.
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Old Oct 27, 2024 | 11:04 AM
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Thanks all. The manual says bleed the rear by first raising the front higher then the rear. Is that necasssry if I bench bleed the MC?
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Old Oct 27, 2024 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by nitan2k
Thanks all. The manual says bleed the rear by first raising the front higher then the rear. Is that necasssry if I bench bleed the MC?
Be careful bench bleeding a used master. Excellent way to destroy the piston seals on parts of the master bore that have become corroded from moisture absorbed by the brake fluid.
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Old Oct 27, 2024 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Be careful bench bleeding a used master. Excellent way to destroy the piston seals on parts of the master bore that have become corroded from moisture absorbed by the brake fluid.
what is the correct process?
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Old Oct 27, 2024 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nitan2k
what is the correct process?
If the port on the bottom of the reservoir hasn't been exposed there is no need to bleed. Fill it and see if you have a hard or spongy pedal.
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Old Oct 27, 2024 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nitan2k
Thanks all. The manual says bleed the rear by first raising the front higher then the rear. Is that necasssry if I bench bleed the MC?
Raising the front when bleeding the car or the master will only serve to trap any air that may be ahead of the master cylinder's pistons. Frequent forum advice is to raise the rear of the car and master when bleeding. Put a level on the master and raise the rear until the bubble moves all the way to the back of the level. I've done it this way and don't see any detrimental effects of doing this to achieve a good system bleed.
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Old Oct 29, 2024 | 08:11 PM
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My understanding from read threads is that the raising of the rear was due to the relation of the bleed screw vs the possible air bubbles in the calipers. Thinking of the caliper shape and the areas where fluid or air bubbles may be inside, this makes sense. There are great videos on youtube where folks show how to do bleeds without someone as a helper to pump the brakes. I’m not there yet, so I’ve yet to do it, but think it is a worthwhile thing to take a look at. My past brake jobs included my wife as a pedal pumper, but will incorporate what I learned by those vids due to some of the comments on the vids. Things such as “Man, I’ve been a mechanic doing brakes for 50 years, You just saved me a bunch of time/taught me a lot”. Here’s an example:
Master cylinder bench bleed:
Ton’s of other vids on the subject, but I think you can figure it with those two.

Last edited by litevette; Oct 29, 2024 at 08:22 PM.
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