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Im getting ready to install carpet in my 1971 coupe and was wondering how much glue was used by the factory for carpet install? I’ve got the original production markings in my storage area and didn’t want to cover those with spray glue. I’ve thought about some heavy Velcro in areas but want to install close to the factory technique.
KC
This summer I put in new carpet in my '72. The rear definitely had more adhesive marks on the panels than the front. The rear wheel wells definitely had a fair bit, the rear wall and floor hardly any. The rear wall is held up with carpet plugs, so that makes sense. The bulkhead behind the seats was like the wheel wells: very high adhesive coverage. For the front, I don't believe I needed any adhesive at all because it's captured pretty much its entire perimeter – plus it lay down well.
FWIW I use 3M windo-weld which is a butyl bead of material. Stick and holds but you can remove it later without damaging the carpet. Works really good for inside corners, stick a bead of it down and press the carpet into it and it'll stay there until you want to remove it.
M
I just use a little spray on Contact Cement to hold the pieces of carpet on the vertical surfaces and the hardest part to get installed flat is the rear area carpet on my 1968 C3. I have glued just the top edge with contact cement and it appears to last a long time without breaking loose or sagging. It appears that the Contact Cement idea has been around since the factory days. I find it on my C3 under the carpets, it looks like someone tried to glue the entire carpet down...
Having a Black interior makes life so much easier. When ever my carpet starts looking a bit peaked I break out the Black Carpet Dye/Paint and spray the carpets black again. Every 2 years or so I re-spray the carpets and I have had the same carpeting since 1991. It will soon be time to order another set from the only place I buy Interior parts, AL Knoch Interiors in Texas.
If you have any insulation installed on the floors of your C3 then I would not be sure of the best way to secure the carpet. Again I would try and see if the Contact cement could hold on the insulation without tearing it up when you pull or move the carpeting.
The 3M product mentioned above would sound like something I need to try. Thanks for the suggestion!!
I just use a little spray on Contact Cement to hold the pieces of carpet on the vertical surfaces and the hardest part to get installed flat is the rear area carpet on my 1968 C3. I have glued just the top edge with contact cement and it appears to last a long time without breaking loose or sagging. It appears that the Contact Cement idea has been around since the factory days. I find it on my C3 under the carpets, it looks like someone tried to glue the entire carpet down...
I just about threw my '72 across the garage when installing the rear wheel well carpet this summer! The repro (AK) carpet just didn't fit all of the curves from front to back or top to bottom very well. I used a lot of adhesive but in the end (being black carpet) you don't see the humps and bumps in the very dark coupe rear. It's still a sore spot with how frustrating the job was.
I'm in the process of doing the carper on my 73. Doing the flat vertical panel under the rear windshield, I put a bolt that loosely fit into where the plug holes are and put a dab of paint on the head. Gave me a mark on the backside of the carpet. Worked pretty well. I put screws into where the vanity light mounts, sticking up, that helped. Side note, when I tried to connect the new wires, to the new light fixture, I could not get the males into the female ports on the light fixture. Anyone else have this issue? I also see there are notes in the assembly manual about where to apply adhesive for the carpet install.