When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Once the insulation gets torn the copper wire inside does start to oxidise, corrode. You could test this wire with a Ohm meter for resistance and or a volt meter for voltage drop. But honestly, a new fusible link just isn't expensive.
Depending on how accessible it is and how much of a pain it would be---
In reality, if it was a big hassle I would probably just a little piece of heat-shrink and heat it on over the little tear.
If it is easy to access then I'd cut it out and solder in a new chunk of fusible link...... $6.19 at Autozone and probably even cheaper online.
Originally Posted by DWAVette
I have an old wiring harness with a fusible link.
I see there is a small, 1/4 inch section, where the casing is torn exposing the wire inside. The wire looks fine.
Is this link no longer usable with this torn case?
The wires inside look fine. I don’t know if the casing can be resealed and use again.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
After aging 40-50+ years and a few woops shorting events, most of our cars links don't even look that good. Getting a new one correctly spliced in can be a bit difficult. I would likely go the shrink sleeving route if it was in my car.
Ahhh, Bullshit!
let's all look close.
Anyone see bright shiny copper wire here? Anyone?
this isn't a brand new tear. For a 6 dollar link you would sleeve over this vintage tear and call it good? Seriously?
I certainly don't wish to purchase a used car from you!
Use emery cloth on the old wire before soldering the new piece of fusible link wire, then apply one or two pieces of heat shrink tubing over the spice. Be sure to disconnect the Battery before doing any electrical work.
.
You are most welcome sir. Old wiring with corrosion will cause voltage drop, (totally not good) and resistance which can cause heat, (also totally not good) which can cause premature failure.
Patching a important section like this when a proper replacement costs less than 10 dollars and literally takes only minutes to replace.
Fools economy.
I guess given the critical purpose of these links, I will just toss this one. No use taking a chance.
Thanks for opinions.
Just curious, what is the width of the male terminal?
Not the length but the width...
It is either 5/16" (Series 59) or 1/4" (Series 56)
You can see here there is a difference...
Just curious, what is the width of the male terminal?
Not the length but the width...
It is either 5/16" (Series 59) or 1/4" (Series 56)
You can see here there is a difference...
The blade is exactly 5/16 wide on 16 gauge wire.
This link would be good for protecting a 12 gauge wire, I believe.
The blade is exactly 5/16 wide on 16 gauge wire.
This link would be good for protecting a 12 gauge wire, I believe.
Now it is protecting the bottom of a garbage can!
If that terminal is passing through engine side bulkhead connector and you need the new fusible link to do the same let me know.
That male 5/16" Series 59 terminal is uncommon...
Fusible Link
