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I have another thread where I'm posting details of my conversion from a TH400 to a TKX 5-speed. This is a slight departure from that topic.
I dropped the oil pan on my 350 tonight since its all beat up and I intend to replace it. I also have a leak at the rear that needs to be addressed. However, once I dropped it, I found a veritable Alladin's Cave of plastic debris jammed into the oil pick-up. I can't even imagine the source. Any thoughts from the engine guys amongst us?
I have another thread where I'm posting details of my conversion from a TH400 to a TKX 5-speed. This is a slight departure from that topic.
I dropped the oil pan on my 350 tonight since its all beat up and I intend to replace it. I also have a leak at the rear that needs to be addressed. However, once I dropped it, I found a veritable Alladin's Cave of plastic debris jammed into the oil pick-up. I can't even imagine the source. Any thoughts from the engine guys amongst us?
is your nylon timing gear coming apart due to bad camshaft “Walk” or do you have an Ememy somewhere?
Ross72
Did the timing gear previously fail? Only thing I can imagine with one of those plastic "encased" timing gears that fall apart? If you want to play puzzle start arranging them as they would exist on a timing gear......
May have just changed the gear and not cleaned out the sump. No biggie I reckon as long as you got the pieces out. Might wanna eyeball the timing chain area.
Originally Posted by Ross72
I have another thread where I'm posting details of my conversion from a TH400 to a TKX 5-speed. This is a slight departure from that topic.
I dropped the oil pan on my 350 tonight since its all beat up and I intend to replace it. I also have a leak at the rear that needs to be addressed. However, once I dropped it, I found a veritable Alladin's Cave of plastic debris jammed into the oil pick-up. I can't even imagine the source. Any thoughts from the engine guys amongst us?
Not sure but the remnants appear to be nylon. I recently learned some chevy truck motors from the 70's had nylon teeth on a steel timing gear. If you motor is a Corvette motor then possible bubba used service parts many years ago to replace timing gears or you have a truck motor in your car?
Not sure but the remnants appear to be nylon. I recently learned some chevy truck motors from the 70's had nylon teeth on a steel timing gear. If you motor is a Corvette motor then possible bubba used service parts many years ago to replace timing gears or you have a truck motor in your car?
All Gm big and small blocks cam with a nylon gear. As a side note, Bill Jenkins ran nylon gears in his pro stock veg and monza( changed every few runs) as he felt it did not transmit bd harmonics to the cam and distributor, thus a effect the engine timing.
Got it! Upper timing gear. Now, the big question is whether or not this is just leftover debris from a long resolved issue or if there’s a minor disaster lurking beneath my timing cover. The engine ran fine a week ago so it’s hard to imagine my timing gear is completely smoked. I guess the only way to find out, for sure, is to take a look under the timing cover…unless someone has another suggestion. 🤔
Got it! Upper timing gear. Now, the big question is whether or not this is just leftover debris from a long resolved issue or if there’s a minor disaster lurking beneath my timing cover. The engine ran fine a week ago so it’s hard to imagine my timing gear is completely smoked. I guess the only way to find out, for sure, is to take a look under the timing cover…unless someone has another suggestion. 🤔
Looking at the front of the engine, dead on, look down on the lower left of the timing case, if you see a bulge that is outward and looks different from the opposite side it’s an indication of the timing case being beat up by a slapping timing chain This could have been from the previous owner who repaired it or current issue
usually when most mechanics do a timing chain they will take a short cut and turn the timing case cover into what is referred to As a “Quick Change” cover like the one sold by Mr Gasket. They grind down the rear steel lip on bottom of the cover that retains the seal. This is done to void dropping the pan during cam changes/reassembly. Signs of this or etc sealer present will be an indication this was the case and they did not drop the pan to clean it out. Now would be a great time to install a melling HV-55 high volume pump, Moroso pump drive and braze the pick up to the pump. If you do the chain , since your halfway there, install a close tru roller timing set and be done with it
usually when most mechanics do a timing chain they will take a short cut and turn the timing case cover into what is referred to As a “Quick Change” cover like the one sold by Mr Gasket. They grind down the rear steel lip on bottom of the cover that retains the seal. This is done to void dropping the pan during cam changes/reassembly. Signs of this or etc sealer present will be an indication this was the case and they did not drop the pan to clean it out. Now would be a great time to install a melling HV-55 high volume pump, Moroso pump drive and braze the pick up to the pump. If you do the chain , since your halfway there, install a close tru roller timing set and be done with it
I was really only hoping to squeeze another summer out of this engine before replacing it with something a little more spicy. It’s got 104,000 miles on it and I don’t think it was terribly potent when it was new. I’ll definitely replace the timing set, but I’m not sure how much more I want to sink into it in the way of upgrades.
Since you're in there replacing that timing set is well worth it. I helped a friend do his ages ago and it was relatively simple...and you're already there.
Originally Posted by Ross72
I was really only hoping to squeeze another summer out of this engine before replacing it with something a little more spicy. It’s got 104,000 miles on it and I don’t think it was terribly potent when it was new. I’ll definitely replace the timing set, but I’m not sure how much more I want to sink into it in the way of upgrades.
Cloyes True Roller Timing Set
Melling M-55HV oil pump w/ pickup
Melling Intermediate Shaft
Oil Pan and 1-pc gasket
Timing Cover Gasket Set
2 pc rear main seal
Cloyes True Roller Timing Set
Melling M-55HV oil pump w/ pickup
Melling Intermediate Shaft
Oil Pan and 1-pc gasket
Timing Cover Gasket Set
2 pc rear main seal
Am I missing anything?
Harmonic balancer instal tool
ifcyou have trouble getting upper rear main seal in there is a tool we call a “ a chino finger@ it looks like the old Chinese hand cuffs we had as a kid. With a pull rope on one end . New seal for front cover
Harmonic balancer instal tool
ifcyou have trouble getting upper rear main seal in there is a tool we call a “ a chino finger@ it looks like the old Chinese hand cuffs we had as a kid. With a pull rope on one end . New seal for front cover
You might consider a two piece timing cover. I used to change my chain every now and then when I thought it had stretched enough to affect my timing. Keeps you from having to drop the pan. I halfway remember that you had to be careful not to impact the water pump. Been a while as I have a different motor,
Water pump gaskets. It has to come off. They might be included in the timing gasket set. The crank seal should be in the set also. Be careful taking the old seal out and for sure installing the new seal.
And some more anti-freeze, since water pump comes off.
You absolutely do not need a high volume oil pump on a SBC. Or even want one.
That is a very persistent myth, for 50 years now.
Go with the std psi one, or the hi-psi (LT-1) version. But not the high volume.
And providing your your oil psi was fine before, why even bother?
Then you get into pickup height issues, etc.
Zero advantage, all downside, on a stock L48 motor.
Down the rabbit hole you go.
Clean that one and put it back in.
But OTOH you absolutely do want to check that nylon gear.
If it is still in there, it could "blow" at any time, and leave you stuck on the side of the road.
But from that pile of nylon, I would guess it is long gone....
And your leak could absolutely be related to bubba's gear replacement years ago.
Last edited by leigh1322; Dec 1, 2024 at 10:08 AM.
You absolutely do not need a high volume oil pump on a SBC. Or even want one.
That is a very persistent myth, for 50 years now.
Go with the std psi one, or the hi-psi (LT-1) version. But not the high volume.
And providing your your oil psi was fine before, why even bother?
Then you get into pickup height issues, etc.
Zero advantage, all downside, on a stock L48 motor.
Down the rabbit hole you go.
Clean that one and put it back in.
But OTOH you absolutely do want to check that nylon gear.
If it is still in there, it could "blow" at any time, and leave you stuck on the side of the road.
But from that pile of nylon, I would guess it is long gone....
And your leak could absolutely be related to bubba's gear replacement years ago.
melling HV IS HIGH VOLUME, not high pressure. I have run these for years in drag engines and circle track cars with no issue. The myth about high pressure guys that ran 40 pounds at idle and 80 pounds it revs was 60 pounds it revs coat some years ago when you had inferior pumps with smaller rotors and passages super high pressure with the road. The bearings just like what it does to the seashore, however volume is a good thing.. Like I mentioned the Lolo volume oil pumps that Chevrolet put these engines and eliminating that squirt hole that lubricates the bottom of the camp shift is the number one reason why these engines wipe out cams from around 7374 on up
Ross72
Why are you changing the oil pan?
I would probably keep the old oil pump if it was working fine.
Originally Posted by Ross72
So it looks like my shopping list is as follows:
Cloyes True Roller Timing Set
Melling M-55HV oil pump w/ pickup
Melling Intermediate Shaft
Oil Pan and 1-pc gasket
Timing Cover Gasket Set
2 pc rear main seal
SBC Engine Guys?
