As a fellow 82 CFI owner, let me just say don't give up. On that note, definitely look into getting a shop manual for general troubleshooting and understanding of what's going on.

Second, I highly recommend getting a USB ALDL connector ($60 + shipping/tax) along with using software WinALDL (free) for logging data. Swapping sensors and tossing parts at it will only go so far. I honestly wish I had got the USB cable a lot sooner. Had it for about two weeks now and have been getting all sorts of data on it. I find it has been far more useful than the shop manual when it comes to tracking things down. I'm about to post a separate thread with some data that I've collected and working to troubleshoot some issues.

One other thing that I think could be causing some rough idle (as I suspect is happening with mine) is the timing chain. My car has around 74,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the TPS sensor, Coolant Sensor, O2 sensor, intake and top plate gaskets and still have a little bit of a rough idle, but it's a lot better than it was. I have yet to replace the MAP sensor, however, I do believe it to be good based on the data I'm seeing in WinALDL.

Right now I'm between 525 and 575 while in gear. Would like to smooth it out a bit more. I noticed the other day that it seemed to be running a little rougher than I'd like. I put the timing light on it after warming it up and disconnecting the EST cable, found that I was just a few degrees advanced, once I put it at 6 degrees BTDC, it smoothed out a bit. I noticed though that even after setting it, the timing mark on the balancer would bounce between 6 and 8. I'm confident my balancer is not walking and instead I believe the chain may be a bit loose. I had previously had it timed to 6 degrees, so either the chain is loosening or the distributor or balancer is walking.

Depending on how many miles you've got and if the chain has never been replaced, it could be time. If I recall reading correctly, the cam shaft timing gear had a nylon coating which I would expect by this point has become brittle and either coming off or going to come off soon leading to slack in the timing gears and chain.

All that to say and end off with this: this engine is definitely a learning curve. It's touchier than a carb set up, but that's also half the fun to me. I've learned a lot about this engine in the last year that I've owned it than I thought it would. It's been fun and I look forward to learning even more about it with my new found ability to get data from it (I'm a data guy so I've been nerding out about collecting this data). Don't give up, be patient with it. Learn it. Watch all the videos about it and eventually you'll be in tune with it to know right where to look when you've got a problem.

 

Clearly, your not interested in repairing your own car. Yes, for the most part this forum is geared that way. We do try to help one another.
And yes, it is beyond my comprehension that you can not find a mechanic that works on 40 year old cars. And the fact that a dealership mechanic was willing to try to help you out is truly a good thing. Why your not looking for that shop full of 60's and 70's muscle cars and Hotrods would be the real question. As popular as the old car hobby is. You can't find a shop that works on 40 year old cars.
Yes, I do find this beyond my comprehension. Here I am, on the exact opposite side of the planet that my Corvette came from. And places that work on 50, 60 year old transmissions, rebuild radiators, etc, etc. Do exist!

 

Thank you Sir for that info. I appreciate the time and thought. My car has 49k on the clock. The idle is rough mimicking yours in gear. It also, when stopped in Park goes high 1000-1100 rpm..again intermittent.I will look into the points you make...I'm not sure i have the patience...we will see! Lol...again thank you for the insight !

 

These shops exist, but in very limited numbers. Their labor rates are higher than normal garages, and are based on straight time rather than flat rate book time, which is why most people refuse to pay them on a 50 year old car. And, if they are good, they are booked months in advance.

For example, in my city of 1.5MM people there was one shop where I got the four two barrel Weber carbs rebuilt and tuned on my 1979 Ferrari 308 back in 2008. One shop only would touch it. No one wanted to work on carbs, let alone four of them on an Italian car. Cost me $2,500 in the end, but I gained 50 HP and the car was transformed. That tech is dead and gone now. He was Italian from the old country.

Nowadays, if the tech cannot hook up the laptop to the OBD and get told by the computer what black box to replace, they are stumped.

 

The way I see it you have three choices:

1. Learn to fix it yourself. If you want to do this, it really isn't as hard as you think. The CFI isn't all that different than other GM fuel injection system that was used for decades. The forum is the perfect resource to help you get up to speed. Also, If you are near central FL I'd be happy to help.
2. Find a compenant shop that will work on it for you. I think this is easier said than done but the dealership would be the absolute last place I'd go for many reasons.
3. Find a shop to convert to aftermarket carb or modern EFI. Finding someone to do this work shouldn't be all that hard since it's just chevy small block. If you don't care about originality and just want to cruise there's nothing wrong with going this route. I enjoyed learning and working on the CFI but if you aren't into keeping CFI going then why bother?

 

I have a friend with a 82 CE. it's a really nice car. But he also got sick of the crossfire EFI. He went with a carburetor/ distributor transplant. Complete with mechanical fuel pump and all that that intails. Car runs fine nowadays. Certainly not original anymore. Cost him plenty.
If it were me, I'd likely do a modern fuel injection upgrade. Which would require a manifold swap as well. But most of the fuel system is already there.

 

I suppose its preference, but I agree with you about keeping something with fuel injection. I've had enough fights with carbs on cars and boats in the past, especially after sitting for long periods of time. My uncle still has his 64 Impala SS Convertible that he's had since 1965. He mentioned that the best thing he did to that car was put a Holley Sniper on the 327, and said: no more hard starts, coughing and stalling, its great!

I personally am going to give it my best shot at using the crossfire, but the drag is there's hardly any aftermarket performance parts. I would like to get more power into that car. It's a Corvette!

I've got my fingers crossed that Buccaneer can pour some more Renegade intake manifolds in the near future. I can't find any old ones on ebay. There's only so much metal one can port out of the stock crossfire intake and it still won't be the same.

I suppose, if that doesn't come to fruition, then there would have to be other options like manifold swap (and engine, ECM, etc), or LS swap. But let's see.