Too many choices:
stock rebuilt
stock new manufactured
Stainless steel
Stainless sleeved
lip seal
o-ring seal

I’ve done this before but I have a new leak on one of the fronts. I am thinking I should change them all just because they were replaced many years ago.
I will be changing the hoses at the same time.
Good time to rebuild the parking brake hardware.
nothing but fun

 

Stainless sleeved is pretty much the standard nowadays. O ringed calipers are a bit more tolerant of rotor runout. Both lip seals and O ring seals seem to work fine. A lot of the o ring calipers say not to use DOT 5. I don't like that. Maybe you don't care. Maybe you do. I have 3 lip seal calipers and one o ring with replacement o rings so I can run DOT 5.

 

I would recommend Lonestar caliper. They have O-ring stainless steel lined calipers sold in sets of 4, and they’ll buy your old ones as cores.

 

What is in the car now? Are they Delco? Have they been sleeved in stainless steel in the past? If they have been sleeved in stainless steel, are the bores in serviceable condition? Some of the vendors sell "off shore" castings. If original, consider rebuilding with O-rings and new pistons. The kits are available at most of the Corvette vendors. I use Van Steel. They are local to me. Jerry

 

Find the parts you need for your brakes and rebuild them yourself. I did it and it was easier than I was expecting. The cost of the parts was not that bad, the labor is what costs you so much when rebuilding a device like a caliper. I have not attempted to rebuild anything like a master cylinder as I leave that to the Pro's. A man needs to know his limitations...

First, I get the new pistons with O-rings and any other parts you might need. Then remove the caliper and then remove the bolts that hold the two halves together. At this time I clean down the Caliper parts and inspect the bores specifically. Then using a small Brake Hone on an electric drill I will clean the bores with the hone while the parts are submerged in kerosene for lubrication and to carry the junk away from the working area. After they are done I clean the parts again and re-assemble them with new bleeder screws and pads. IF I find a caliper that has not been sleeved then I would replace it with one that has been sleeved before I start rebuilding the parts. Just be sure the Brake piston bores are not rusted from having been left dry.

Over the years this system has worked and my brakes work fine. After the calipers are re-assembled and installed I then use a Phoenix Reverse Bleeder to push the new fluid UP and into the master cylinder. I have disconnected the brake lines at the Master cylinder and pushed the fluid up and out before making the connection at the master cylinder/proportioning valve. Normally I just put a bowl under the master cylinder and some absorbent towels to ensure that nothing squirts on the painted surfaces. With a Turkey Baster I remove the old brake fluid and keep pumping the fresh brake fluid UP from the calipers. When the new clean fluid comes out then you are ready to move to the next wheel. Be sure to tap on the particular caliper you are working on as you are bleeding the system. The same goes for the the brass unions or blocks used in the brake system as they can hold air as well.

After re-building the brakes with the new o-ring style pistons in the calipers I was impressed with the pedal "feel" and how well they worked. With a good solid push I can lock up all four wheels if needed. I also did many passes at over 100 mph and slowed down perfectly smoothly without any fading action. I do like to use the drilled and slotted rotors which help the brakes a bit. Having re-built all four calipers at the same time means that they should all be in the same condition.

The other item that is fairly important are the four rubber lines that connect the calipers to the four corners of the car. Many of us have replaced these lines because they are well past their 15-20 year life expectancy and that requires they be replaced. Using the Stainless Steel braided lines that replace the four rubber hoses makes a big difference in the pedal feel. The older rubber lines would expand when the brakes were used and this takes force away from the braking ability. The new SS braided lines give the pedal a tighter feel since the hoses are not able to expand. This is a very worthwhile improvement to any Corvette. I did it to my C3 and my C4 just to have better brakes.

 

I replaced everything when I did a. Post off years ago.
stainless steel lines and hoses a long with the calipers. Had some issues with the front calipers and replaced them from my local auto parts store. Not one of the chains but I don’t know what’s in them.

 

I rebuilt mine 13 years ago then one by one 3 of them started leaking while siting over the winters from freezing moisture and expansion I assume. often I'd pump them a couple times in the spring and the leak would go away for the season. eventually I replaced them with auto chain rebuilt units as they failed which are likely offshore casting. They have performed flawlessly and still look new years later.

Rebuilding them is not hard but bias aside, the rebuilt ones I got seem to honestly be better built with stainless pistons and such. and whatr coating is no them has held up fantastic as they are all still shiny with zero corrosion (on the outside anyway)

 

Which auto chain store did you buy them from?

Thanks

 

I got 2 from advance auto and one from autozone.

 

And all of these have been leak-free?

Thanks

 

Yes zero issues the oldest replacement is about 13 years old as I had damage to one and couldnt rebuild it and the other 2 were replaced over the following years with one about 5 years ago and another last year.