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So, I'm in the process of rebuilding my Tilt & Tele steering column on my 72. I used the Jim Shea's paper. Thanks a lot for these great papers!
I followed Jim Shea's steps:
T&T Column Instruction Pic #3 or Standard Column Instruction Pic #2
In order to correctly install the ignition switch it is necessary for the lock cylinder to be installed in the column and placed in the OFF position.
Back Drive Columns (1969-1976)
First, reach down to the lower column lever and move it all the way down to its lowest position. Now rotate the lock cylinder all the way counterclockwise until it stops. The lock cylinder is now in OFF position and the steering wheel will not be locked.
First of all, there are five positions built into the ignition switch. They are as follows from full clockwise back ccw; START, RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, and ACCESSORY. You should be able to see a slider on the underside of the switch. You should also be able to insert a small allen wrench or other type of small tool to reach into the switch and move the slider to various switch positions. It may feel quite stiff as you move the slider.
You now want to place the ignition switch in the OFF position. You do this by reaching into the ignition switch and moving the slider all the way to the end of travel to the ACCESSORY position. It should detent and stay in that position. If in doubt, the other extreme will be the START position and you will feel a spring return. Now move the slider two detent positions back from the ACCESSORY position, this will place the switch in the OFF position.
Carefully fit the actuator rod into the ignition switch slider hole and attach the ignition switch to the column by lightly tightening the two fasteners. Lightly push the switch down the column (away from the steering wheel), to take out lash in the actuator rod, and tighten the fasteners. Caution should be exercised to prevent moving the switch out of the OFF detent. Tighten the fasteners to 35 in-lbs. Reinstall and readjust the dimmer switch as described on page #4 if so equipped.
Now, I have a problem synchronising the ignition lock cylinder with the ignition switch. My detailed problem is I can turn the key to the Off-Lock-Position when the lower column lever is down.
I tried to localise the problem. When the lower column lever is down, I can pull the actuator rod down to the physical stop from the bowl (Off-Position) and not more. Also, the steering locking pin is flush and doesn't lock the steering wheel. This shows me the lock with the lower lever and the bowl works right.
In this position, there is a bit of slack or play between the Rack and the actuator rod. This is enough to turn the key from Off-Position to Off-Lock Position, and then I can remove it. This should not happen.
A bit of play is normal when I see the construction between the rod end (D) and Rack (B).
This photo shows my bearings housing with a new 6-tooth sector before I assembled the turn signal housing. My actuator rod and Rack are original. The Sector is correctly clocked with the Rack.
During my investigation, I also found out that the original sector is 0.3mm wider on "the large tooth" than on the defective black 5-tooth sector, which I removed. Unfortunately, I did not measure this on the new 6-tooth sector, but this one seemed to be much closer to the original one. You can also see that the old black repro sector does not have a second notch behind the large tooth. I suppose this also gives a little more play if the large tooth is not identical to the original.
Could it also be that the spring in the ignition lock is a little worn, which also leads to more play?
The first photo shows the maximum point before the lock pops out of the Off-lock position so that the key can no longer be removed. As you can see in the second photo, this position from the lock is already enough that if there is no play in the linkage between the rod and the rack (turn the Sector shaft CCW and pull the rod down to the bowl stop). The notch in the sector shaft is already identical and therefore, already in the off-lock position from the ignition cylinder slot.
Last edited by jeffrey864; Jan 3, 2025 at 02:53 AM.
After more investigation, I found the problem! This may help all people who are also at this point.
Short answer: The repro Rack and Sector is the problem. My column had an older repro Sector (5-teeth) and Rack (6-teeth / open style). I reused the Rack and the idea was to use a better repro Sector (6 teeth), but this didn't work.
The 5-teeth Sector works only with a correct 6-teeth Rack (open style). This combination works, but not completely how it was designed. You don't come in the accessory position on the switch.
The only way to bring the column completely functional how it was designed is to use a 7-teeth Rack and a 6-teeth Sector. The last thing I don't know is whether to use the Corvette, the 7-teeth open style or closed style Rack?
Sector difference (left to right): Dorman repro Sector, older repro Sector, original Sector, correct repro Sector
Look at the teeth, left from the large teeth and the hole in the middle (clocking)
What is frustrating is that I have to take the steering column completely apart again. The new pivot pins are very tight
One of the first things I learned when buying parts for my 73 convertible was that restoration parts are “HIT and MISS”. It is sad that the various Corvette Parts Suppliers don’t care if the parts they sell fit, or actually match the original parts installed by the manufacturer. A lot of times the restoration parts inconsistencies won’t matter. You have probably learned, to always compare the new part/component to the old one. I wasted a good days labor plus buying a $25 switch, when an online parts supplier sent me the wrong blower fan for my Camaro.
Ignition lock problem
