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I have an Innova dial back timing light that I bought on eBay for $50 a few years ago. It looks like now Harbor Freight is selling a different one for $30.
All you’ll need on your timing tab is a mark at zero, which should be this larger indent here.
I wish we could encase that tab relic on a shelf somewhere, glass epoxy the exact state
Timing lights are not all same. I've had around 5 timing lights over 25 years and they all work a little different. Some of them wouldn't work on certain cars. Some would flash but it would be the wrong number or inconsistent somehow. Some would work and give the correct number, but only if you flipped the pickup the right way first, and give you the wrong number if you didn't check the pickup direction, and some did not have an arrow on the pickup nor is it intuitive which way does the arrow face when you try the different coilpack wires or lay the pickup down on a coil pack directly, like the high quality timing lights I could never afford will do. Things can get complicated with coil pack ignitions when trying to pickup for a dynojet or timing light situation especially at wide open throttle conditions.
My advice is look at different types of timing lights, and try to put quality first. I still have my original and favorite timing light I use all the time from like 20 years ago, its not even a big name brand but its always worked (just remember to try the pickup both ways!). And when you do finally use it, don't immediately trust or believe the number it tells you. Make sure to thoroughly connect the number to the behavior of the engine. For example if its saying 10* and the engine is running smooth, you should be able to adjust near 0* and witness the engine starts to stall or sputter with only 0* of timing. However if the engine keeps running perfectly smooth at 0 and again at -10 etc... at idle it starts to become obvious that the number is a lie. Try flipping the pickup and make sure you are on number 1
Summit Racing is probably your best bet. I have a older Innova dial back timing light but if I was in the market for a new light I would get this one. It popular with the car guys. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ino-5568
Mine is a cheaper $50 version. No dial which I like… just a simple gun. I only use it 2 or 3 times a year.
In your pic, At the very top of your timing tab is about 10-12 BTDC…you can barely make out the “before” above “0” mark.
I aim for 8-10BTDC. Also, if you have an old one from 80’s it might be way better than my 2020 cheap version.
One thing I wish mine had was rpm reading….my Dash tach is not accurate at all.
If you’re going down the rabbit hole that is ignition timing I would suggest Lars’s timing and vacuum advance papers. You can get them from him at his email at V8fastcars@MSN.com
If you’re using the Summit kit you were looking at I would use one medium and one light spring. I have a similar kit in mine that gives me my full advance at 3,000 RPMs. With 14 initial and 20 degrees of centrifugal advance I’m getting 34 degrees total before the vacuum advance comes into play. With the fast burn combustion chambers of the heads I have the engine seems to run a little better than the 36 total that small blocks with older heads tend to like.
Is there anything wrong with your current timing light? My old Sears Craftsman unit from the '80s still works great and the quality is much better than the newer Chinese models.
I still use a 30 year old "Sears" Timing light and I also have the Sears Dwell Meter with it as well. My old Sears timing light had the dial built into it and I would trust it over anything made in China.
Here's my collection of diagnostic tools... looks like the newer compression tester is only 20 years old or so. I did clean off the timing tab and can read the numbers now so at least if the timing light still works I can set the idle timing once I get the ignition parts in.
If you use a non-dialback timing light, great! Get some MSD tape, too, since best practice is to time at max mechanical advance (~36 degrees or so), and work backwards.
Those fancy new timing lights also have tachometers built in, so no guessing. They may also not work well with certain aftermarket ignitions, so caveat emptor.
But whatever works, works! Here's how to do it with MSD tape and a simple timing light.
I had the same Penske timing light. That timing light pre dates high energy ignition systems. Being all metal and non inductive, that light would shock me when using on a HEI. Good timing light though.
Do those vintage Dwell Rpm meters work on 1982 HEI style distributor? I have one that has 2 leads on it…maybe negative to engine ground and positive to pigtail TACH test terminal? Just to check rpm not dwell I suppose.
I had to replace my new/40 year old Sears timing light.
I didn’t think I would ever need it again and sold it at a garage sale.
I found another new/old Sears timing light on eBay a couple of years ago and it works perfect.
I thought about buying one of the new dial back timing lights, but there were many comments across several forums where they didn’t work well on classic cars, plus the techs at MSD recommended not using one with my MSD ignition.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jan 20, 2025 at 03:36 PM.
Had several timing lights over the years, last one from AutoZone. IMO, simple is better, I have one with a dial but usually like the simple one w/o a dial.
Also, I get a hobby paint brush and mark the TDC and whatever target advance (10. or 8 or whatever) with white or green paint plus paint the mark on the harmonic balancer too all to be easier to see.
Hope this might help. Good advice above too.
BTW, I got a dwell meter off ebay really vintage with a brand name I never heard of, ha, and it works great on my points ignition. I would guess it would not work with HEI.
Last edited by 20mercury; Jan 20, 2025 at 03:04 PM.
Do those vintage Dwell Rpm meters work on 1982 HEI style distributor? I have one that has 2 leads on it…maybe negative to engine ground and positive to pigtail TACH test terminal? Just to check rpm not dwell I suppose.
IIRC the clip goes on the spring that's on the spark plug
Dont worry the inertia ring will slip and turn the tab into an agent of chaos. The tab could already be 1* off. Its part of the allure of owning one of those, of never not knowing not ever exactly what the timing truly is for sure ever... ahhaha