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My symptom is while driving down the road straight there's a bit of play in the steering wheel and when making a turn the steering wheel does not center as I expect it to, it's a bit slow and I might need to give it a bit of help to center the steering wheel. Also sometimes it seems to turn a tad too far when you give it a tiny input while going straight. While sitting still there is a bit of play in the steering wheel but nothing is loose up to the steering gearbox, I can see that much.
To recap on my 82 with 94k miles I've replaced the following parts on the front suspension. Ball Joints, control arm bushings, tie rods, tie rod ends, idler arm, sway bar bushings and links, shocks, springs. I've had it aligned and the guys takes his time and double checked everything so I trust that. And all the brake components are brand new except the line that runs front to rear and the two that go to the sides.
The steering control and actuator leaks oil I think so possibly original. Can a worn out steering control cause the above symptom?
I assume the play in the steering wheel could only be in two places at this point, the steering gearbox and/or the pitman arm connection into the control.
If the box is correctly setup and in good condition, there should be -0- play at the straight driving position. The control valve will have play in it with the engine off otherwise there should be none.
Typically, the box and/or rag joint is the issue. If the box was adjusted, how it was adjusted will make a difference and affect the life of the gears as well as the feel.
Lastly, you may have a good alignment guy, but did he align the car with the box on center? if so, that might be the issue. These boxes, from 63-82, vary in the high lash, arm center, and true center. The factory mark is usually at high lash. The factory mark for L69-82 is the D-Flat.
Try lifting the front wheels off the ground, start it up, and see if the wheels move. There is an adjustment on the power steering valve to set center for the steering ram.
If the box is correctly setup and in good condition, there should be -0- play at the straight driving position. The control valve will have play in it with the engine off otherwise there should be none.
Typically, the box and/or rag joint is the issue. If the box was adjusted, how it was adjusted will make a difference and affect the life of the gears as well as the feel.
Lastly, you may have a good alignment guy, but did he align the car with the box on center? if so, that might be the issue. These boxes, from 63-82, vary in the high lash, arm center, and true center. The factory mark is usually at high lash. The factory mark for L69-82 is the D-Flat.
Thanks for the information, the rag joint is solid. I was extremely careful when I assembled the steering wheel to make sure the flat on the worm gear shaft was at 12 o'clock when the steering wheel center spoke was at 6 o'clock and the notch on the steering column shaft was vertical ( I forget if it was at 6 or 12). I was quite surprised at how thorough he was checking that the tires were all the same size and that they all had exactly the same pressure. At the end he reset the Hunter machine to double check that everything was aligned as perfect as he could. And I did find out that he is a neighbor...
JT,
Understood, sounds like you have a good alignment guy.
Now, with the box D-Flat at 12 and the chisel mark on the column, under the steering wheel at 12, spoke of the steering wheel at 6, the tires should be straight and there should not be any play in the box.
If the box was never apart, chances are the grease is acidic, although the grease used in the later 70's was better than the mid 70's and older. The bearings may be shot, and the gears may have play in them. If you look on YouTube you will find guys adjusting these boxes, they are incorrect in the methods used. Some are close, none that I have seen were experienced with these boxes to adjust them correctly. The best way to adjust these boxes is out of the car. The preload adjustment on the car is a crap shoot, the lash is possible to bring in but it should not be too tight. The check point on the high lash can only be done out of the car and with a dial TW only.
I did find this on line which might be correct but I'll look in the service manual before doing anything with it.
Saginaw Steering Box Adjustment
The nut and screw adjust Worm bearing Preload and Sector shaft mesh. NOTE! The steering gear must be out of the vehicle to adjust it on all 1974 and later Saginaw rotary gear units. The earlier models can be adjusted (sector shaft preload) on vehicle. Here is the manner that GM Saginaw Division recommends how to adjust. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft, completely back off the sector shaft adjusting screw on the sector shaft cover. Center steering on the "high point" then attach an inch lb torque wrench to the steering wheel shaft, the torque required to keep the shaft moving for one complete turn should be 1/2 - 2 in lbs. If the torque is not within these limits, loosen the thrust bearing locknut or tighten valve sleeve adjuster plug to bring the preload within limits. Tighten the thrust bearing locknut and recheck preload. Slowly rotate the steering shaft several times, then center the steering on high point. Now, turn the sector shaft adjusting screw until a steering shaft torque of 3 - 6 in lbs more is required to move the worm through the center point. Tighten the sector shaft locknut to 35 ft lbs and recheck the sector mesh adjustment. Total steering gear preload should be 14 in lbs or less. Install the pitman arm and replace back in vehicle. To try and adjust the sector shaft screw without doing the preceding will DAMAGE the steering gear. Most of the play is not in the sector shaft adjustment, it is the spool valve area.
Just be aware that procedure is not completely applicable to these boxes as they do not have a valve in them.
Thanks, I did find the procedure in the service manual and it's sorta close to the above. I'll add it to this thread so anyone searching can read the actual factory procedure.
So if someone finds this thread the upshot is the steering gearbox is 43 years old and is a bit tired and needs an overhaul and setup per the service manual. Today I got the control valve and actuator off and the pitman arm has play both left/right and up/down which tells me it's worn and sloppy.
I probably just tighten it up and be on my way but I don't operate like that, I like to fix it right the first time.