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It's been years since I've done this but I do know it's a pain in the ***. How many can be reached from the top and how many from underneath? Thanks for any tips.
Please don't use anyDIE-ELECTRIC grease on your spark plug wires! We have seen so many issues that owners "made" for their Corvettes by using Die-Electric grease in between electrical connections.
Die Electric Grease is NOT Electrically Conductive. The "intended use" on spark plug wires was to help keep the boots from sticking to the porcelain on the spark plugs. If you get any of the Die-electric grease in the path of the power then it will make problems for you. If you want a grease to protect connections then use Battery Grease which coats the connections preventing oxygen from getting in them from corrosion.
I am sorry that I can't tell you which spark plugs are removed from above and which are not. I have 2 Corvettes, a 1968 C3 and a 1988 C4 and both of them allow you to access all 8 spark plugs from the top sides. The C4 takes about 2 hours for a complete change and the C3 takes about 20 minutes due to ease of getting to all of the plugs from above the engine The toughest one is the #7 spark plug nearest the brake booster on the C3 but still very accessible. Even with a 427 BB there is tons of room around the engine. The clam shell hood makes the 1988 C4 a bit better but the placement of accessories makes it harder to get to cylinders #2 and #4.
When installing spark plugs be sure to use a thin anti-seize mixture unless the spark plugs come prepared already with a dried on anti-seize. I use a champion brand anti-seize made specifically for spark plugs. The bottle I have is fairly large as I bought it at a aircraft supply store.
I have found that using a spark plug socket over the plug, with a gear-wrench on the nut (of the spark plug socket) is an easier way to remove certain plugs with long tube headers. I also keep a 1/4" socket and adapter for the spark plug socket for
the tighter spots.
Maybe I am old fashioned or maybe I have repaired too many spark plug holes in the aluminum heads. I still like to start the plugs by fingerand then tighten them up.
"Wobbly Extensions" for your 1/4 and 3/8" drive ratchets can make life much easier. I bought sets for my Son and Son-in-Law just so they would have them when they needed them. If you ever changed a left side forward spark plug (#3) on a air cooled VW engine you will understand why Wobbly Extensions are so darn handy. That same hole was the most popular one to get the threads ripped out of. Not easy to get to would be an under statement.
I will never forget a buddies ShelbyGT500KR with it's 428. He had to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine to access the spark plugs. He bought the car at an auction for $900 and kept it for a long time.
Great information from ctmcclosky. When changing plugs on my 81 most can be reached from the top except for the back plugs. The back plugs are a little hard to reach from the top due to the exhaust and heat shields and are a little easier to reach from the bottom. Not saying all the plugs are not reachable from the top, just depends on the types of tools and extensions you may be using. As far as anti-seize, since I just use the standard AC Delco plugs recommended from the factory and similar metals in the heads and plugs should not require. If you had aluminum heads, then yes use anti-seize. Well, that’s been my experience installing and removing plugs in various types of metal versus aluminum surface differences.
If you get one from below, try to get as many as you can. It's easy to reach all of them from above, with headers. Or with the exhaust manifolds removed.
top and bottom whichever is easier. My suggestion is the harder part is managing the heat shields. Remove one rubber end to facilitate this through shields and if needed loosen to tuck in...
Not sure if yours totally stock..shop manual should also have a diagram specific to your 80?
82 plugs here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-learned.html
[QUOTE=ctmccloskey;1608525618]Please don't use anyDIE-ELECTRIC grease on your spark plug wires! We have seen so many issues that owners "made" for their Corvettes by using Die-Electric grease in between electrical connections.
Die Electric Grease is NOT Electrically Conductive. The "intended use" on spark plug wires was to help keep the boots from sticking to the porcelain on the spark plugs. If you get any of the Die-electric grease in the path of the power then it will make problems for you. If you want a grease to protect connections then use Battery Grease which coats the connections preventing oxygen from getting in them from corrosion.
Dielectric grease, silicone grease and battery grease are all the same thing. It only fills in the air gap in a connection; preventing arcing and corrosion. In higher temp applications like spark plugs, some types can harden and prevent a good connection on re-use. Even though it is a non-conductor, enough of it wipes away where there is a solid metal-to-metal contact, to make a good electrical connection.
My 80 was three rear plugs from underside and was able to move heat shields enough to get to them, forward plugs from combination of underside and top side, same both sides
82 much easier with removing heat shields rear two plugs underside front two plugs top side, same for both sides
Definitely use a swipe of antisieze compound on the plug threads , I recommend dielectric grease on all plugs! Not wire just rub a little on the porcelain so the wires come off , I can't tell you how many wire sets get replaced because of the boot getting stuck on the plug. Just don't put any on the tip of the plug. The passenger side 2 rears from underneath is easy , possibly the drivers side also , fronts from the top.
Most high end plug wires come with dielectric grease.
For a very good reason! Use it!
No you don't put it on the metal contacts. You put it on the inside edges of the boots to not only aid in later release but also to help seal out moisture.
Can't imagine why anyone would recommend to not use it!
Most high end plug wires come with dielectric grease.
For a very good reason! Use it!
No you don't put it on the metal contacts. You put it on the inside edges of the boots to not only aid in later release but also to help seal out moisture.
Can't imagine why anyone would recommend to not use it!
is there a reason why you are changing them , or you just want to because that what people say to do . If the car is running well …. Leave it alone !!!!!!!
is there a reason why you are changing them , or you just want to because that what people say to do . If the car is running well …. Leave it alone !!!!!!!
I just bought this 81 with 4600 original miles. A complete tune up,drain old gas is in the works.
Please don't use anyDIE-ELECTRIC grease on your spark plug wires! We have seen so many issues that owners "made" for their Corvettes by using Die-Electric grease in between electrical connections.
Die Electric Grease is NOT Electrically Conductive. The "intended use" on spark plug wires was to help keep the boots from sticking to the porcelain on the spark plugs. If you get any of the Die-electric grease in the path of the power then it will make problems for you. If you want a grease to protect connections then use Battery Grease which coats the connections preventing oxygen from getting in them from corrosion.
Dielectric grease, silicone grease and battery grease are all the same thing. It only fills in the air gap in a connection; preventing arcing and corrosion. In higher temp applications like spark plugs, some types can harden and prevent a good connection on re-use. Even though it is a non-conductor, enough of it wipes away where there is a solid metal-to-metal contact, to make a good electrical connection.
W00 Hoo this could be trouble countering some sages suggestion - could incur some wrath LMAO
The other thing about dielectric grease it is supposed to have very little surface mechanical contact resistance (film strength) - meaning it supposedly doesn't impede conductivity if the conducting surfaces are in actual contact.
I don't think the dielectric qualities have appreciable film resistance to high voltage.
I believe dielectric grease is to seal components against moisture : preventing corrosion and electrical leakage.
I am sitting here looking at a tube of Dow Corning #4 Electrical INSULATING Paste where it states ALL applications from spark plug boots , battery terminals , rubber seals etc etc
Spark plug boot lubricant of choice ! I have never had a spark problem - but then I run solid wires LOL
PS - I didn't look at the video or whatever it may be
Most high end plug wires come with dielectric grease.
For a very good reason! Use it!
No you don't put it on the metal contacts. You put it on the inside edges of the boots to not only aid in later release but also to help seal out moisture.
Can't imagine why anyone would recommend to not use it!
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Need some tips on replacing spark plugs,1981
