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I am adding a 5 speed to my 70 coupe, small block so I need to replace the clutch and bell housing.I can remove all but 1 bolt holding the bell to the block, it’s the upper bolt on the drivers side. I have tried raising and lowering the rear of the engine but nothing allows enough clearance at the firewall.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Jim
It's been about 5 years since I did my clutch. But I'm thinking both upper bolts, swivel socket on a long extension. Not a swivel and a socket. But a actual snap-on swivel socket.
I'm really certain it wasn't a drama at all. Removing or installing.
Replacing the clutch can be a PIA but whenever I have to work on my C3 and it's manual transmission I remember this.
My brother had a mid-1960's MGMidget with a Buick all aluminum (~260 ci) V8 connected to the drive-line. Now that was a HORRIBLE little car to work on as there was no room to get my hands in there. My brother got good at sourcing and installing "new" MG rear ends as he could blow one out so easily. To get out of that beast I had to slide out the doorway and get on the ground, from there I could lift myself up.
At least you will have a Corvette to drive when you are done with installing the new clutch.
Just remember, It COULD be worse as there are plenty of cars out there with very difficult to access Clutches.
Anytime the last bolt refuses to loosen on any part, put some of the other bolts back in and just snug them down.
Sometimes the last bolt is under stress and then you start rounding off the corners.
Does this trick work? 51% of the time.
(And six point tools always work better than 12 point on hex fasteners like this)
I’ll try the suggestions, I believe I have tried what is suggested but was very cautious as I did not want to work around all of the wiring in that area, I will give it a more “determined” try.
I bought a g force t5 from a forum member a few months back and am finally getting to the installation. This uses a 1year only bell housing that rotates the trans 15 degrees so the shifter comes out in the right place, the install was documented by a few folks here. So with the 5 speed I will be putting the 4.11 differential back in so it should be a fun ride, the engine is a forged 406 built by Smeding performance.
Thanks for the suggestions.
It's been about 5 years since I did my clutch. But I'm thinking both upper bolts, swivel socket on a long extension. Not a swivel and a socket. But a actual snap-on swivel socket.
I'm really certain it wasn't a drama at all. Removing or installing.
Replacing the clutch can be a PIA but whenever I have to work on my C3 and it's manual transmission I remember this.
My brother had a mid-1960's MGMidget with a Buick all aluminum (~260 ci) V8 connected to the drive-line. Now that was a HORRIBLE little car to work on as there was no room to get my hands in there. My brother got good at sourcing and installing "new" MG rear ends as he could blow one out so easily. To get out of that beast I had to slide out the doorway and get on the ground, from there I could lift myself up.
At least you will have a Corvette to drive when you are done with installing the new clutch.
Just remember, It COULD be worse as there are plenty of cars out there with very difficult to access Clutches.
Had a friend in high school in the 60’s who put a Chevy 283 in an Austin Healey Bug Eyed Sprite