Hi everyone running Sniper EFI. Can anyone let me know what accelerator cable you are running with your Sniper conversion? I'm running a stock L98 with Sniper EFI, Headman headers andEdelbrock 2101 manifold. I was driving my car and nailed it. The whatever brand accelerator cable I have installed gave out with about 2,000 miles on it. WTH!

 

try over here in the Sniper for Dummies pinned post

 

I run Summit EFI, (FiTech) and installed a couple on various years of Corvette's and installed a Holley sniper on a 76. All with the factory stock cable.

 

I don't know what possessed me to use a so called "upgraded" cable. I am definitely going back to stock.

 

The Holley Sniper throttle body is twisted 90* from the normal orientation and this change makes the throttle cable a bit more challenging. The Stealth Sniper and it is oriented just like a big Holley carburetor as it was designed to "look" like a carburetor is being used. The factory cable works just fine on my Stealth Sniper. I didn't even have to change a bracket or anything, it just bolts on.

With this orientation on the Stealth Sniper it allows my drop base to be oriented properly for a Holley carburetor. This is the reason I chose to use the Stealth Sniper because it is critical that the throttle body is located in the same place as the carburetor would have been to align with my hood assembly. The two fuel inlets are on the passengers side and it looks like a carburetor until you see the "EFI" engraved into the aluminum throttle body.

Having broke a throttle cable on another car I am careful to have replacements parts available for the challenging applications. I have an new in the package A.E.D. throttle cable assembly which can be adapted fairly easily should my throttle cable start looking "peeked".

 

Ah ok, so you are saying the OE/OE style throttle cable does not align very well with the Sniper throttle linkage at least not as nicely as one would wish for, correct? Please confirm.

It's been so long since I installed my Sniper I don't remember why I switched to an aftermarket cable but based on some notes I wrote the oe cable is to long?.

 

I have no clue what he's on about. I put a standard sniper from a Master kit on a 76. The bracket to hold the cable we needed to fabricate. That's all.

 

Ok, you had to fabricate a bracket for the OE style cable to work correctly. The old stock bracket did not work with the sniper? Can you send a picture?

Here's what happened to my current cable. The steel shredded and released from the connector. I think it's a Lokar. Scary ****!

 

The positioning of the "Holley" Sniper throttle bracket is very similar to the positioning of any Holley Carburetor. If I recall, my stock L-48 with the stock Q-Jet throttle cable arrangement had to be manipulated to get it to work with the first Holley carb that I put on it in 1990 something...

Typically most users that migrate to a Holley carburetor, then to a Holley Sniper, don't have to do much with the throttle cable configuration. However, some adjustment may be necessary to ensure you have the correct alignment and proper travel - without over travel. Severed / pulled apart relatively new (such as a Lokar cable) are usually signs of an improper cable travel setup.

There are numerous kits out there for Holley throttle brackets. Some have adjustable brackets, or even multiple bracket types for different configurations. I like some of these because it allows some flexibility on bracket placement / angle as well as spring attachment flexibility.

Here's an example:





I used the Lokar cable (which pivots and allows length adjustment) and an aftermarket throttle mounting bracket. I used the bracket that went best with the Lokar fitting and I also used a lower bracket to adjust spring angle and tension. I also added an additional spring on the forward side of the throttle bracket so it would pull forward aiding the other spring returning the Sniper to the 0% TPS consistently.

 

I have the Lokar cable setup as well with over 10,000 miles on it. Make sure your WOT tension isn't too tight. It's not good on the throttle input shaft and your cable can severe (or pull free) if you have too much tension in your setup.