none of you mentioned headwork, if there's one thing that can really boost performance its a head, intake cam swap.
thats my .02
oh, exhaust is always good :yesnod:

 

Thanks for everyones help I am set on the cam but if I stay with the stock L-48 heads or go with the performer I mean will there be a noticable differance by the way this car has 107000 miles on it not sure about any rebuild it also has a nice daul exhaust

 

sorry oatboy I was sending another post while you sent yours but question sill stands

 

Stock heads aren't that great. Perhaps some sportsmans or the like would be reasonably cheap?

You will not see a great gain with headwork until you put some free flowing exhaust. I picked up 70rwhp just by adding headers and a new dual exhaust after I had the cam, heads etc.

 

what are sportsmans im not familiar with that name

 

I'm sure some "local" guys will chime in.

http://www.dartheads.com/


[Modified by Chris O', 1:00 PM 2/13/2003]

 

To up grade a L48 to L82 is easily done with athe proper cam. The L 82 has larger valves but for low end torque you really don't need it. Better low-mid range torque means better take-offs. Crane PowerMax H266 or H272 will get you there. Intake manifold helped my take-offs as well. I did mine in stages so I know what did what. As far as what you said you wanted on that budget there isn't much more you can do. Later you might want to change the heads to larger valves and headers. You should look at upgrading your distributor for better performance. Proper timing makes a big difference.

 

Hello Travis,
I'm stuck finnishing up a top end overhaul on my '74 and would like to warn you of what your gett'n into. To replace that cam shaft will require removing and replacing: water pump & pulleys, radiator, fan shroud, radiator core support, harmonic dampner & pulleys, steering linkage to access oil pan, starter, oil pan, timing cover, timing set, carb & intake. Also you'll need to repace and/or repair all the broke bolts, wiring, radiator and core support you find in the process. My old '74 was driven hard, left outside and needed lots of parts. If your new at motor work you may want to pay the local vett shop and save yourself alot of headaches. Its good to get to know your local vett specialty shop anyways.
With over 100k miles you'd be due for a valve overhaul and cam replacement soon due to loss of comprssion and lower power. I've read the bottom end is good for about 350K miles though never driven one that far. For just a valve overhaul with better springs (and I have to strongly recommend umbrella seals) and cam change shop charge should be less than your $1500 requirement. Try at least three estimates including the local chevy dealer and use the one you feel you want to work with in the future - not the cheapest.
bgrice is giving good advice as 300 hp is much cheaper and easier to do than 400 hp. Travis you can get to 300 hp without headers using a "short" single pattern cam - like mine a Crane Energizer 266 H10. Short single pattern cams don't have the need for exhaust scavenging that longer duration cams do. Also Crane cams usually sell with matching lifters - if not order them along with the Crane valve springs. Make sure to replace the timing set at this time too.
Stock intakes aren't all that bad and is something you could really experiment with later along with headers for good experience. Spend your money on labor for the tougher jobs and finish the small stuff at your own pace.
If your shopping for heads my recommendation is Performance Products out of Phoenix, AZ (602)254-9586. They only charge $100 for pocket porting and mine really look fantastic. Ask if they'll overhaul yours.
Only one more thing to add, a chevy performance magazine said the .015" steel shim head gasket is worth 10 hp on a low compression 350. One guess what I'm using.
Good luck :yesnod: