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Borgeson Quality Control

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Old Mar 31, 2025 | 08:35 PM
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Default Borgeson Quality Control

All bushings, tie-rods, and pitman arm replaced a couple of years ago. Spring height still correct so springs not replaced.
Upper control arm shim packs: Left front 1 shim, Left rear 2 shims. Right front 2 shims, right rear 3 shims.
One shim moved from front to rear on each side to increase caster without affecting camber.
After Borgeson gearbox install. Center link no longer level and had to remove left inside tie-rod grease fitting.
I don't feel the brackets were welded onto the gearbox in the correct position to maintain correct steering geometry.
Bump steer is caused when tie-rod links don't follow the same arch as the lower control arm. Not everyone has this complaint, but
enough do to lead me to think Borgeson has a jig that is off. You would think their quality control would locate the cause of the issue and correct it.
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 08:38 AM
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I thought they only sold steering boxes
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 10:15 AM
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Which centerlink and which pitman arm do you have?
There are two of each.
MS & PS.
You may need to try a different combination of parts.

MS centerlink above. PS centerlink below, with Borgeson adapter on it. I swear the pitman arm stud does not look like it lines up with the upper one. A different distance to the the tie rod joint.
MS centerlink above. PS centerlink below, with Borgeson adapter on it. I swear the pitman arm stud does not look like it lines up with the upper one. A different distance to the the tie rod joint.

Two different Pitman arms. I need to get two of them side by side to see what the difference is. Is it Clocking? or angle? Probably the PS version needed to move the connection point a little for all the hoses to clear. Look at the missing spline spacer in the gearbox connection. It is at a different clock angle.
Two different Pitman arms. I need to get two of them side by side to see what the difference is. Is it Clocking? or angle? Probably the PS version needed to move the connection point a little for all the hoses to clear. Look at the missing spline spacer in the gearbox connection. It is at a different clock angle.

Last edited by leigh1322; Apr 2, 2025 at 10:29 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2025 | 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 509 rat
I thought they only sold steering boxes
They do. I was just explaining history of repairs done previously a long with number and placement of shims to avoid any questions of bent or damaged frame. I guess I don't understand the reason of your statement.
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Old Apr 5, 2025 | 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by leigh1322
Which centerlink and which pitman arm do you have?
There are two of each.
MS & PS.
You may need to try a different combination of parts.

MS centerlink above. PS centerlink below, with Borgeson adapter on it. I swear the pitman arm stud does not look like it lines up with the upper one. A different distance to the the tie rod joint.
MS centerlink above. PS centerlink below, with Borgeson adapter on it. I swear the pitman arm stud does not look like it lines up with the upper one. A different distance to the the tie rod joint.

Two different Pitman arms. I need to get two of them side by side to see what the difference is. Is it Clocking? or angle? Probably the PS version needed to move the connection point a little for all the hoses to clear. Look at the missing spline spacer in the gearbox connection. It is at a different clock angle.
Two different Pitman arms. I need to get two of them side by side to see what the difference is. Is it Clocking? or angle? Probably the PS version needed to move the connection point a little for all the hoses to clear. Look at the missing spline spacer in the gearbox connection. It is at a different clock angle.
It had pwr str. so the center link and pitman arm are for pwr strng with the kit adapter. The longer manual steering center link makes sense to me when using outer holes in knuckles. The longer pitman arm would make the problem worse.
The brackets welded onto the Borgeson box are not far off. Just enough for a noticeable tilt in the center link and the inner tierod grease fitting hits control arm.
** After rereading my original post I need to make a correction. The Idler arm was replaced not the pitman arm. The original pitman arm was reused because it is a non-wear item.

Last edited by oilngas; Apr 5, 2025 at 03:26 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2025 | 03:29 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by leigh1322
Which centerlink and which pitman arm do you have?
There are two of each.
MS & PS.
You may need to try a different combination of parts.

MS centerlink above. PS centerlink below, with Borgeson adapter on it. I swear the pitman arm stud does not look like it lines up with the upper one. A different distance to the the tie rod joint.
MS centerlink above. PS centerlink below, with Borgeson adapter on it. I swear the pitman arm stud does not look like it lines up with the upper one. A different distance to the the tie rod joint.

Two different Pitman arms. I need to get two of them side by side to see what the difference is. Is it Clocking? or angle? Probably the PS version needed to move the connection point a little for all the hoses to clear. Look at the missing spline spacer in the gearbox connection. It is at a different clock angle.
Two different Pitman arms. I need to get two of them side by side to see what the difference is. Is it Clocking? or angle? Probably the PS version needed to move the connection point a little for all the hoses to clear. Look at the missing spline spacer in the gearbox connection. It is at a different clock angle.
It had pwr str. so the center link and pitman arm are for pwr strng with the kit adapter. The longer manual steering center link makes sense to me when using outer holes in knuckles. The longer pitman arm would make the problem worse.
The brackets welded onto the Borgeson box are not far off. Just enough for a noticeable tilt in the center link and the inner tierod grease fitting hits control arm.
** I need to correct my original post. The Idler arm not the Pitman arm was replaced.
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