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I finally (after 2 months) got around to removing my rearend that broke last time I went racing. The obvious damage is a section of the ring gear was stripped and the pinion was a little chewed up, probably because of the stripped ring gear. The ring and pinion is a RICHMOND. I thought that was one of the best :skep: Maybe it is. I suppose anything will break if you abuse it enough. The good news (I hope) is that everything else appears to be OK. I've got pictures but since Photopoint (I think that was the name) went under I don't have a host for my photos. Anyway, any suggestions for a good place to rebuild would be appreciated. I WILL NOT send it anywhere near Delray Beach, Fl.!!!! :nonod:
Do it yourself! That"s what I"m doing to mine now. My ring gear bolts broke in two, the ring & pinion are perfect though. I think Jeg"s sells a video on this procedure, it"s a good feeling you get from doing it yourself :yesnod:
Hey Nastee,
Try Maksymuk's here in Ft Walton. His shop is off of Racetrack Road. I'd be interested in hearing what you decide.
I went there about 3 years ago when I was originally looking for someone to do a rebuild/gear change. He acted as if I was BOTHERING him. So I don't care how good he is or how much I have to pay someone else. He will NEVER get a penny of my money. :nonod: Who knows, I may get inspired and try to do it myself.
Do it yourself! That"s what I"m doing to mine now. My ring gear bolts broke in two, the ring & pinion are perfect though. I think Jeg"s sells a video on this procedure, it"s a good feeling you get from doing it yourself :yesnod:
I'm going to do some more reading on the subject and I may decide to do it myself as long as it doesn't take alot of specialized tools that I don't have. A rearend is just one of those things I don't want to have to do over again because I messed up a clearance or a mearsurement.
Hey Nastee; It's not very hard to set up gears yourself as long as you are patient, have a dial gauge and an in/lb torque wrench for the pinion preload. I could set it up if need be, or I could give you a few pointers and you could give it a shot. Drop back by one afternoon if you want and we can get into details. We started using Lucas additive in the race cars, and gear life is much longer now; you may want to try some too. Seeya later, Rick.
Hey vettedreams,
Half the battle is having the right tools. Get the pinion preload correct with a good contact pattern and backlash within specs and you're :cool:
Thanks for the reply dually4wd, I never took the pinion out, looked to good to mess with so I won"t have to worry about that, at least I hope. What is the torque setting for the ring gear bolts, and how much backlash should I have? Is backlash actually the play in the ring gear? and what is the correct procedure to measure this? I do have a dial indicator with mag. base. Thanks again
The ring gear bolts should be torqued to 50 foot pounds. The backlash is set at .003 to .010 with .005 to .008 preferred. The back lash is measured with a dial indicator. Measure the back and forth motion of the ring gear with the pinion not moving. Make sure you measure with the indicator in line with the movement of the ring gear. It looks like the carrier made it there. Got the chack also. Good luck with it. Better in your car than sitting on my work bench
Thanks again Gordon, feel bad for those sales that don"t go so good, read about them all the time! I"ll let you know how this comes out, it"s going to rain here, cann"t roof so I"ll play mechanic.
That's good info from Gordonm. Where the range in backlash comes into play is when you try to achieve the best patern. You want the drive side and coast side paterns to be even with each other and generally slightly toward the root or inner part of the tooth. Pinion depth changes the patern from inner to outer (root to toe), and backlash changes depth of contact. Once you mess with it a little, it's not that complicated.