I've had my car on jack stands or ramps for a long time while reworking suspensions, brakes, interior and more. While still on ramps I was preparing to get it on the ground to drive a little to see if the suspension would compress. Even after months the car started and runs fine. However, the manual 4 sp will not go into reverse. First through fourth is fine. No work on the transmission other than replacing the lubrication and the speedometer gear. Shifter and linkage not clogged with dirt, grease or rust. The t-handle and rod are fine. Seems like the shift lever (original) isn't moving to the left as far as it should. Only moves left about 1/4" or less from the path between 1st and 2nd. Even with the t-handle and rod completely removed. I disconnected the reverse lock out cable at the steering column, but no change. Worked fine before worked mentioned above. Any tips?
Thanks
Mike

 

A piece of the rod broken off and dropped in? If it were mine. I'd get under and check that both the 1-2 and the 3-4 levers on the transmission are indeed going to the neutral position. They are? Remove rod from reverse lever, can you shift it into reverse with shifter disconnected? Yes- problem with shifter, Remove shifter mounting bracket and shifter, repair as necessary. Reinstall

No, you still can't get transmission to shift into reverse even with shift rod removed and both forward levers in neutral. Remove and repair transmission.

 

No visible broken pieces. No loose nuts on rods at levers. I don't understand how this could have developed when everything was fine when I parked it. The only work I did that was even remotely close to issue was replacing the lower and upper shifter boots. I don't see how these could interfere with shift lever travel. No way to orient them improperly.

Will levers be in vertical position (up) if in neutral? Can shifter mounting bracket and shifter be removed while still on the car?

 

Yes levers are perfectly up when in neutral. Yes shifter bracket and shifter can be removed with transmission in car. In fact you remove them first, then the trans.
I don't know what you could have knocked while changing shift boots but something happened.
I like to remove the 2 bolts that hold shifter to bracket first. Although you can't remove the shifter with bracket in place it's easier to remove those 2 bolts first.
the upper shifter mount bolt is easiest accessed from the top, so pull your console and shift boots back off if you need to pull the shifter. First, disconnect the reverse rod from the lever on trans. See if you can shift it into reverse with a crescent wrench on the transmission reverse lever.

 

Just a thought, that lower rubber shift boot clips onto the tunnel on the left side, is it possible you didn't get it clipped into place correctly? Or potentially a aftermarket boot improperly made?

 

From under the car, you should be able to move the shift levers with your hand. On my 73, I had a problem getting into reverse, it turned out to be the long shaft rod. The crimp holding the rod had become loose. I tightened the crimp and then I could get the tranny into reverse, as previously mentioned once the entire reverse rod is removed, you should be able to go into reverse. Also my car didn’t have all “G CLIPS” on the shift levers, there were cotter pins the allowed the levers to flop around. I ordered new “G CLIPS” which kept the shift levers more secure, never had a problem with reverse after installing the “G CLIPS.”

 

Thanks 4-vettes for the details. I've been thinking about something not right around the lower shift boot. Thats the only area I worked that could relate to this issue. A chilly morning here in south Louisiana, so I'll wait for a little warm up before working under the car. I'll save removing the console for last...but maybe should do that first.

 

Thanks Eliredandblack for the info about the "G CLIPS." I was wondering why there are used instead of cotter pins. The "G CLIPS" are certainly more difficult to remove and install. I'll look closely at those areas.

 

Transmission to steering column interlock cable hanging up or broken. I think I'd disconnect it and see what happens.

 

Never mind. I reread your post and saw that you did that.

 

If the cable froze on the transmission end disconnecting it at the top does nothing.

 

Mel - before tackling removal of the console, I'll see if I can disconnect the transmission end of the cable.

 

Good eye!

The cable could have rusted / frozen from all those months of sitting and not being exercized.

 

That cable could be the issue OR the release gizmo on the shift lever is not proper actuating.

 

Well, maybe some success. I disconnected the lockout cable from the reverse lever and was able to eventually get shifted into reverse. However, doesn't work on every attempt. I'm able to move the cable not needing a lot of effort. So I don't think the cable is the real/only issue.

I thought I'd try what 4-vettes suggested earlier. I was able to get a box end wrench on the reverse lever bolt and move the lever into what I think might be reverse position. While rocking the bolt back and forth with little effort, it became apparent that the bolt was somewhat loose. The end of the reverse rod no longer aligned with the hole in the lever. Then I saw that there is a gap between the lever and the transmission body. There is no gap at the other levers. When looking at a reverse lever on a supplier's website it appears as though it shouldn't possible to slightly misalign the lever due to the "notches" in the lever that I assume should mate with the shaft in the transmission. Is this correct?

Looking at my photo of the reverse lever, is the gap normal, or should the lever be snug against the transmission body?

Another question: Should the shifter be lubed in any way? Everything is completely dry. If yes, what lube is recommended?

Thanks for all of the replies.

 

Remove the bolt completely and examine the lever hole where the shaft on the transmission engages it. If everything looks good reseat the lever onto the shaft and tighten the bolt.

 

Update: I made a gauge as described on this forum. Using it I found that the reverse rod was out of adjustment. Now the shift lever easily moves into the far left position towards reverse. If takes some force to move into reverse. The resistance is almost like pushing against hard sponge rubber. I’m thinking I need to bite the bullet and pull the shifter for a rebuild. it is rather rusty but otherwise everything is clean.

I’ve read MANY posts on the topic and see MANY opinions. I see the two bolts holding the shifter to the bracket and understand that the upper bolt is removed from above and the lower bolt from below. I’ve seen some say to pull the shifter and rods out from above. Others say drop the shifter down.

Does the bracket have to be removed and possibly the forward exhaust pipe to get the shifter down? No side pipes. Can these steps be avoided by going up?

Can I unbolt the three levers from the trans and leave them attached to the rods to avoid having to deal with the G clips with everything in place?

 

Time for a Hurst 🤗 your gonna have it out anyway 😏

 

Got the shifter out. Removed the front exhaust pipe but not the bracket. Now forward to clean up and rebuild kit. Can someone tell me where these shims go? They fell from somewhere as I was pulling the shifter down. I don't see them in the AIM or the service manual.

 

Only guess is to adjust shifter bracket to frame.