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I've tried to find a diagram or something that shows what the top door panel screws screw into behind the panel. Driver side front screw...the one near the dash...will tighten pretty good, but then manages to work loose after some time. Wondering if theres a clip in there it screws into? Or perhaps just a threaded hole that's maybe stripped out a bit.
Interior had been redone before I bought it, and they used new screws with an allen type head. I bought new OEM style (phillips) screws and replaced them. New one still pops loose though.
I will guess you have a 1965 car?? On most of the C3 cars the door cards (panels) use screws that were self tapping into the metal sheet metal on the inside of the door. In most cases after many years, the screw hole has become STRIPPED. One option would be to use a bigger size screw, but then the head will be larger than the OEM Screw. A second option involves use a Rivet Nut Gun that places a special rivet into the hole, where by you can use a machine screw. On my last attempt, I filled the hole with JB Weld Epoxy and placed a 2 inch square piece of metal window screen on the backside of the stripped out hole. After a few days, I drilled out the hole and inserted the OEM Size screw. Obviously a lot of work, but it seems to be holding. There are other places where this procedure has been employed with good results.
I will guess you have a 1965 car?? On most of the C3 cars the door cards (panels) use screws that were self tapping into the metal sheet metal on the inside of the door. In most cases after many years, the screw hole has become STRIPPED. One option would be to use a bigger size screw, but then the head will be larger than the OEM Screw. A second option involves use a Rivet Nut Gun that places a special rivet into the hole, where by you can use a machine screw. On my last attempt, I filled the hole with JB Weld Epoxy and placed a 2 inch square piece of metal window screen on the backside of the stripped out hole. After a few days, I drilled out the hole and inserted the OEM Size screw. Obviously a lot of work, but it seems to be holding. There are other places where this procedure has been employed with good results.
Sorry, should have specified. I have a 72. So if self tapping, perhaps the same style screw, just a hair larger in diameter would work.
Edit: the screws that were in there from whoever re did the interior, has the washers that weren't "connected" to the screw head. So this one being loose, rattled while driving, which bugged me. The screw I replace with has the semi attached washer, so at least it doesnt rattle now.
Once the door sheet metal has had screws over-torqued in them a time or two, they get opened up so the screw will no longer hold. The fix proposed above is probably the easiest to do...without welding. Otherwise, a little spot of weld in that 'slot' and a redrill will do the job.
Many companies sell kits that include all the screws used in your 1972 Corvette and they used to be cheap, now ZIP gets $42 for a set. This is one kit that has all the pieces that you might need to clean up or replace the interior screws. This way you can continue to use the right parts in the right places!
Thanks everyone. I'll get a larger screw for now. Might get in there this fall/winter and do a bit of spot welding and fix it the right way. Weather is too nice and I've only owned it a few weeks, so gonna just enjoy it for now.
If you have a bench grinder, you could grind around the side of the head of a larger thread screw so the head will be about the right size. Pretty easy to do. The underside of the head won't be visible, anyway.
If you have a bench grinder, you could grind around the side of the head of a larger thread screw so the head will be about the right size. Pretty easy to do. The underside of the head won't be visible, anyway.
Screws have the pressed on washers. Not sure how one could grind the head itself.
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