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Okay so idk if I did something wrong am a complete idiot or both or if this is supposed to happened but I originally had the torker II and it was in pretty bad shape so I bought the air gap performer. After installing I noticed there were a bunch of open bolt spots on the manifold and didn't think anything of it, my torker II also has some open bolt spots and when I was refilling the car with coolant the manifold started overflowing and coolant was coming out of the ports pictured. I drained the coolant out of panic but Is this supposed to happen? Like am I just supposed to plug these holes and coolant will just sit in the manifold or did I mess something up during installation. I'm completely new to all this so I'm learning the hard way but any insights would be appreciated?
Last edited by willymot; May 15, 2025 at 11:39 PM.
You can purchase drab pipe plugs at your local parts store.
Or, look at Summit Racing.
They have black, blue, red, stainless, chrome that looks nice on aluminum Intakes.
A very small dab of Permatex Waterpump & Waterneck (AutoZone $9) applied to the plug's threads will prevent future dribbles.
That sealant is Glycol Proof. Several sealants are not.
Just "snug the plug". No more torque than necessary or you could damage the casting.
To see pictures of plug options, click on my avatar to the left.
Look for an album Eddy Air Gap.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Those are for water coolant crossover hoses some have 2 in the front and two in the back, mainly seen on serious race cars. Like said above, plug them. The AirGap manifold is an excellent choice, you will notice a difference in power.
Depending on your Intake model, it may or may not have two more waterports in the rear of the Intake.
The two in the front I believe were 1/2 inch NPT?
The two in the rear were maybe 3/8 inch NPT?
Don't remember.
But keep in mind NPT plugs are NOT the actual size of the threaded hole.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by ignatz
Isn't this the intake that has clearance problems? Willymot, does your hood close OK?
Had one on my '80, hood closed no probs, but yes it is very close. I believe back in the day Edelbrock said it wouldn't fit in a C3, just to cover there a..ess.
Check hood fit carefully. If close, you may need a drop-base air cleaner to gain some distance. Make sure you have clearance before fully closing the hood.
Say Heads up how did you get a airgap to clear you hood , I have a L88 hood and want to go to a high rise single plane intake for EFI
Send $5 to my account and I will . . . . . .
just kidding.
Open style Air Cleaner, 1.5 inch drop base, (chrome, more H.P.)
The base is specific for Holley 4150s because it has indentations for the fuel bowl adjustment screws.
Then, thru NAPA, an element that is 14" dia and 2 & 5/8 inches tall.
NAPA p/n Fil 6037
Then a rubber insulating spacer from Holley which is 0.260 thick including the aluminum heat shield.
Tip:
Remove the carbs air cleaner stud before test closing the hood. You may have to shorten the stud for the wingnut to clear.
I have 3/8 of an inch hood clearance.
I also have solid motor mounts. That air cleaner is not going anywhere under torque conditions.
Go to Walmarts toy section and get some Silly Putty. It will leave a lasting impression.
Place a couple globs strategically on your air cleaner. Slowly close the hood.
Check the putty thickness.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 18, 2025 at 06:14 PM.
I would start with a heat gun or hair dryer. Warm up the area around the bolt hole till it's 150 to 200 degrees. Have on hand, two very sharp, straight automotive pics. Use the pic to attempt to spin it out by picking at it from several different points. If no change, use both pics., 180 degrees apart, in attempt to spin it out. If no change, use a very sharp, thin pointed punch, such as a center punch and attempt to center punch it perfectly. After the center punch, us the same punch to tap lightly near the perimeter, at an angle near 45 degrees, in the direction of rotation to remove the bolt (counter clockwise in this case). After several minutes and multiple attempts, if no movement, I would move onto a left handed drill bit. If the left handed drill bit does not remove it during the drilling process, drill the hole deep enough to reach the bottom of the bolt and use a bolt extractor for the next attempt.
If you booger up the hole too much, don't worry, you can drill it larger and install a heli-coil.
Say Heads up how did you get a airgap to clear you hood , I have a L88 hood and want to go to a high rise single plane intake for EFI
You can go high rise with an L88 hood but Weiand makes a single plane in various heights if your worried about clearance. I'm running a Weiand Team G single plane with my Sniper 2 under my stock 1971 hood (and this is the base hood, not a BB or LT1 hood). I know it would have plenty of clearance under an L88 hood.
I don't have much clearance as one side of my air cleaner has about 1/4 inch space according to the clay method. I had it on my dual plane but it just didn't run right. I installed the single plane and it really woke it up,
DISREGARD: New intake manifold install question
