Offset Upper Control Arm Shafts
I found them fairly easy to install. The trick is to take off the nuts versus trying to take out the bolts. The bolts are accessable through the wheel well, so it looks easier to back them out from there, but they run through the frame, the old a-arm, the shims and the nuts. That's a lot to torque through. Removing the nuts, you can slip the old arm off of the bolts and install the new one the same way.
Taking the nuts off is a bit of a challenge given the fan shroud. I had to loosen the fan shroud in order to get the rachet socket on the nut.
I put back the shims the way they were, and with the new A-arm, the camber is way too strong. I called VBP and they said the new set up is designed to greatly reduce the shims to better solidify the suspension.
If you find any write-up on the benefits of the new A-arm, please share it.
It sounds like you got new a arms, i was just talking about the offset upper a arm shafts unless that's the only difference. If so it sounds like a nice upgrade for the money and I'll go with the super kit.
If I had my front end apart I would seriously consider doing this.
Our cars go into positive camber when cornering hard. This rolls the tire under itself. It's like leaning a bike to the outside when cornering hard. You would fall over.
Long spindles cause the tire to go to negative camber when cornering hard. This plants the tire or like the bike on hard cornering leaning to the inside of the turn. This can be accomplished by increasing the length of the spindle by a few inches.
Newer cars have this longer spindle but they have rack and pinion steering so we can't use them on our older cars.
I hang around a race shop and all the race cars have the inner bushings on the A arms lower then the ball joint.
Just more to think about
...redvetracr
PS: for the street don`t bother
















