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I find that it is frequently caused by bad alignment of the brake tube going into the caliper. I do see from earlier posts that several people suggest a good tight fit by cranking down on the fitting. Others suggested approximately 30 ft pounds of torque would work just fine.
First I would get my Tube Wrenches out so I can remove or tighten the lines without rounding it off (too easily). Second, I would be sure the connection clean and dry when you put the brake line into the caliper.
It really boils down to the "condition" of the parts that are connecting together. A corroded brake line might never seal properly.
It sounds like the answer might be to "crank it down snug and then give it another 20-30* of rotation".
I find that it is frequently caused by bad alignment of the brake tube going into the caliper.
I'll go a little further down this line of thinking. Every flared fitting first needs to be fit by hand alignment where you can feel that the flare seats. The line going in needs to be perfectly perpendicular to its seat. Nothing should be cockeyed.
Once you feel by hand that it is seated, then with the other hand and holding the line still, tighten the fitting snugly. With SS lines I've found that loosening a bit and tightening a bit more helps the flare and seat to conform to each other. The flare nut contributes nothing to sealing the connection so don't bother trying to put teflon tape or anything like that on the nut.
If this fails there may be some imperfections in the joint so soft materials like copper or aluminum flared washers will usually fix that problem.
Thanks for all the response i did use my flare wrench on the nut and received a half turn. Pumped brakes no leak . Waiting over night to see any dribble because i have to bleed i assume all four calipers because that flare nut was sucking air into system.