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his post says it has the R12 adaptors and will do both... my problem will be getting on the plane
Golf
You misunderstand what Interpon was saying.
In 1979 Chevy started putting a smaller Schrader fitting on the high pressure side to prevent people from accidentally trying to charge a system on the high side. (Doing so can actually cause a can to explode in your hand.)
I learned about this working on my 1980 Bronco ac. Never did get the right high pressure fitting. You can read static pressure by just hooking up the low side and , of course, charge from the low side. You just cant see what the high side is doing when you start assessing system performance. I saw 80 psi static on the low side gauge and charged until I was seeing about 35 low side pressure at 2000 rpm and had cold air. (Love my old bronco but I hate working on fords.)
VS
Golf
You misunderstand what Interpon was saying.
In 1979 Chevy started putting a smaller Schrader fitting on the high pressure side to prevent people from accidentally trying to charge a system on the high side. (Doing so can actually cause a can to explode in your hand.)
I learned about this working on my 1980 Bronco ac. Never did get the right high pressure fitting. You can read static pressure by just hooking up the low side and , of course, charge from the low side. You just cant see what the high side is doing when you start assessing system performance. I saw 80 psi static on the low side gauge and charged until I was seeing about 35 low side pressure at 2000 rpm and had cold air. (Love my old bronco but I hate working on fords.)
VS
3/16 sounds right and looks right.
the link where i bought on ebay no longer exists so I cannot confirm.
thanks interpon, I've ordered it... I wouldn't proceed forward till I have everything I need so ordering everything now and reading up... thank you again.
Bob, That looks exactly like the adapter I have for the R12. If you end up going the 134 route there are adapters that screw onto the R12 fittings that will then allow you to use the 134 gauges. One advantage to them is you can shut off the gas flow before you disconnect the hoses. On the R12 set up the freon is leaking while you unscrew the hose.
Bob, That looks exactly like the adapter I have for the R12. If you end up going the 134 route there are adapters that screw onto the R12 fittings that will then allow you to use the 134 gauges. One advantage to them is you can shut off the gas flow before you disconnect the hoses. On the R12 set up the freon is leaking while you unscrew the hose.
thanks Kanvasman, right now I am planning on staying R12 as its still pretty readily available and thats the equipment I have, im picking up 4 cans when I get back from business later in the week with some PAG oil and an r12 can tapper, also ordered the gauges... as always this site helps me out... I'm always looking forward to the challenge. Thank you again
thanks Kanvasman, right now I am planning on staying R12 as its still pretty readily available and thats the equipment I have, im picking up 4 cans when I get back from business later in the week with some PAG oil and an r12 can tapper, also ordered the gauges... as always this site helps me out... I'm always looking forward to the challenge. Thank you again
thanks interpon... that what I got, so far I either have or its on its way.... R12 3 way gauge set, 4 cans of R12, R12 can tap, R12 mineral oil and the 1/4-3/16 adapter, my local auto parts has the vacuum pump for rent
Just an update and perhaps next move.
I set up a set of gauges on the low and high side and both show about 10psi so very low, I then decided to jump the low pressure safety switch (i removed the gauges at this point) I statrted the car and clicked on the AC, compressor came on, blower started blowing... no noises or big engine changes, compressor at least functions and sounded good... is this the time to run a vacuum pump and see if it holds vacuum?
Maybe you lucked out and only need a charge. Yes, I would do the vacuum pump now. put the low side gauge on, hook up the pump and start it up and open the valve. Let it run for about 1/2 hour. Part of that is to suck out any air, and part of that is to remove any moisture. But if there is still freon in it, that shouldn't be an issue. After it's been running for 1/2 hour, close the gauge and turn off the pump. Come back in about 10 minutes and see where you are. IF it holds vacuum, just hook up the can of freon and add as needed.
Maybe you lucked out and only need a charge. Yes, I would do the vacuum pump now. put the low side gauge on, hook up the pump and start it up and open the valve. Let it run for about 1/2 hour. Part of that is to suck out any air, and part of that is to remove any moisture. But if there is still freon in it, that shouldn't be an issue. After it's been running for 1/2 hour, close the gauge and turn off the pump. Come back in about 10 minutes and see where you are. IF it holds vacuum, just hook up the can of freon and add as needed.
I like to lengthen the times a little bit, to say pump on for an hour, and see if it holds for 30 min.
But the idea is to find any leaks before you put a bunch of freon in.
You had some pressure, which is great, so you should have little moisture, but it also means you likely have a small leak.
80-90% of the time that is an o-ring somewhere, that dried out.
If one leaks, just change them all.
Just try to keep the system open for as little time as possible, and tape over the open lines while they are open. To keep moisture out.
Golf
You misunderstand what Interpon was saying.
In 1979 Chevy started putting a smaller Schrader fitting on the high pressure side to prevent people from accidentally trying to charge a system on the high side. (Doing so can actually cause a can to explode in your hand.)
I learned about this working on my 1980 Bronco ac. Never did get the right high pressure fitting. You can read static pressure by just hooking up the low side and , of course, charge from the low side. You just cant see what the high side is doing when you start assessing system performance. I saw 80 psi static on the low side gauge and charged until I was seeing about 35 low side pressure at 2000 rpm and had cold air. (Love my old bronco but I hate working on fords.)
VS
And if you buy a new muffler hose assy for your '72 Corvette, they shrader valves will also be different sizes from one another, not the same as they would be if OEM....
Thanks guys... I messed up, I forgot to shut the manifold valves before shutting off the vacuum pump and lost my vacuum in about two minutes... I hope this didn't pull the vacuum pump oil into the system.
I did it again, ran the vacuum pump for an hour, got to about -25 psi vacuum... shut the manifold valves and its been about 1/2 hour holding same vacuum, will let it go another half hour and check it again.
Very cool..
i would go overnight and be sure exactly where needle was prior.
I don't have to return the pump till later today and planning on doing again this morning and leaving it for the day, in fact I will leave the lines connected till I get back from travel this week.
