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replacing main cap bolts insitu?

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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 09:38 AM
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Default replacing main cap bolts insitu?

I am replacing the timing gears on my 71 LT. I have found an "extra" set of the long/stand off main bolts (used to support the longer windage tray used in other models).
see photo. As the stock pan is very shallow there, the longer bolts have pressed into the pan. (though not leaking etc) I'm inclined to leave them but if convinced, can I just replace
the 2 bolts with the "proper" shorter alternatives while leaving everything else alone?
Thx





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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 11:16 AM
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Can't you just cut off the treaded part or clearance them so they don't tough the bottom of the pan?
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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 11:33 AM
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yes, you can replace them. Might as well inspect the bearing while in there.
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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 11:44 AM
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Check those divots in the pan as well, vibration may induce a crack at one or both over time.
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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dynra Rockets
yes, you can replace them. Might as well inspect the bearing while in there.
Let sleeping dogs lie. One bolt at a time. No loctite. Torque to 70 ft-lbs.
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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 01:34 PM
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K.I.S.S. or improve it
Replace that compromised pan with a quality piece.
If it were mine, I'd rethink the entire affair and probably choose a road race pan which includes a pan-mounted & louvered windage tray. Avoid Asian "bargains".

Remove the offending bolts (one at a time) and secure each in a vise and shorten it with a hacksaw; then re-install the shortened bolt and torque to spec.
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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 01:41 PM
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Just remove the stud bolts and replace with regular main cap bolts. If you need some, let me know. I will trade mine for yours.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 08:06 AM
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Or take a socket and a hammer and get the clearance you need for the nuts. But I would check to see if it's too thin there.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 04:11 PM
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Absolutely you can swap-out those bolts. Not like there's a ton of weight there being held by those.

Deep-well socket, breaker bar if needed.

As I recall, Summit sells ARP main cap bolts. Might even have them in packs of two, or four.
Just enter SBC main cap bolts in your search.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 04:48 PM
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Arp bolts need their own torque spec I wouldn't mix them.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 04:51 PM
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But it's the cast iron block that determines the correct torque specs.
Not the ARP bolt itself in this case. (Indestructible)

The cap & crank don't care what bolts are used.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 05:06 PM
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I'd feel better removing only 2 of the 4 cap bolts. With only 24k miles and a clean oil pan etc, I'm going with the bearings are fine.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 05:07 PM
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It has to do with bolt stretch. The factory bolts and ARP bolts are made of different material. Call ARP and ask about mixing bolts.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 05:08 PM
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Will check pan condition but it has survived this long intact.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelyell
K.I.S.S. or improve it
Replace that compromised pan with a quality piece.
If it were mine, I'd rethink the entire affair and probably choose a road race pan which includes a pan-mounted & louvered windage tray. Avoid Asian "bargains".

Remove the offending bolts (one at a time) and secure each in a vise and shorten it with a hacksaw; then re-install the shortened bolt and torque to spec.
Wouldn't KISS be dremeling of the extra length where it sits and reinstalling factory part? If the oil pan is not compromised, will likely bolt it all back up.
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelyell
K.I.S.S. or improve it
Replace that compromised pan with a quality piece.
If it were mine, I'd rethink the entire affair and probably choose a road race pan which includes a pan-mounted & louvered windage tray. Avoid Asian "bargains".

Remove the offending bolts (one at a time) and secure each in a vise and shorten it with a hacksaw; then re-install the shortened bolt and torque to spec.
Originally Posted by fstntq
Wouldn't KISS be dremeling of the extra length where it sits and reinstalling factory part? If the oil pan is not compromised, will likely bolt it all back up.
Depends on who's doing the work, I s'pose. I wouldn't want the fines flying around / into the rotating assembly.
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Old Jun 12, 2025 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by stingr69
Just remove the stud bolts and replace with regular main cap bolts. If you need some, let me know. I will trade mine for yours.
Think that is the way to go. A closer look at the pan says some wrench really drove the long bolts into the pan. Guessing as the engine is NOM, the replacement had these for the lower HP non 4 bolt engine windage tray and bigger pan. When when they swapped parts over, the longer bolts stayed. I'll go with the proper bolts and the existing pan. Anyone have a PN or possible neighborhood source for the inner longer bolts on a 4 bolt main cap from 1972?
thx
Mike
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Old Jun 12, 2025 | 07:46 PM
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Mike,
I can send you the bolts on Wednesday if you send me a PM with your address. Out of pocket at the moment.
-Mark.
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Old Jun 13, 2025 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by stingr69
Mike,
I can send you the bolts on Wednesday if you send me a PM with your address. Out of pocket at the moment.
-Mark.
Thanks for the offer. Lucked out at a local engine builder. Proper bolts back in and hopefully reassembly this weekend.
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