68 Shifter Repair Help needed
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 22
Likes: 5
From: Stuttgart, Germany
68 Shifter Repair Help needed
Hello,
I bought a shifter repair kit.
In the kit are 2 reverse lever interlocks, One 5/64" and the other 7/64" thick.
Which one is the correct for a 68 BB with 4 speed Muncie Trans.
Mine was a self made sheet metal, therefore i do not Know which size use.
For the gap between the pin i could use the thicker one, would this be helpfull - less play?
Thanks in advance
Jürgen
I bought a shifter repair kit.
In the kit are 2 reverse lever interlocks, One 5/64" and the other 7/64" thick.
Which one is the correct for a 68 BB with 4 speed Muncie Trans.
Mine was a self made sheet metal, therefore i do not Know which size use.
For the gap between the pin i could use the thicker one, would this be helpfull - less play?
Thanks in advance
Jürgen
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,759
Likes: 1,647
From: Fairfax Virginia
It might have to have something like how far the gap has opened up or worn open. I too would probably use the larger one as long as it doesn't bind up anywhere. Maybe they give you a stock and the first oversize in case of wear to the other components. I am simply guessing... I do remember them using Graphite to lubricate my shifter after they rebuilt it.
I Personally watched the mechanics rebuild mine when we put the 427 back into the 1968 C3. They removed it, cleaned it, replaced parts, re-lubed it and then installed it. It was like new after they did it and the shifting pattern became tighter and smoother like it was made to be. I kept it that way for a couple years and then put a Hurst into my Corvette.
Do you have a copy of the 1968 Assembly Instruction Manual for the 1968 Corvette? Well so much for that, they do have a lot of pictures and name each part on the page it is used. They do have a complete adjustment setup page in the AIM. I forgot, you have the same year so I looked up the section with the shifter. Having a BB 1968 Corvette in Germany must be some fun as long as you can afford the fuel. (My brother returned after 14 years in Germany.)
Best regards,
Chris
I Personally watched the mechanics rebuild mine when we put the 427 back into the 1968 C3. They removed it, cleaned it, replaced parts, re-lubed it and then installed it. It was like new after they did it and the shifting pattern became tighter and smoother like it was made to be. I kept it that way for a couple years and then put a Hurst into my Corvette.
Do you have a copy of the 1968 Assembly Instruction Manual for the 1968 Corvette? Well so much for that, they do have a lot of pictures and name each part on the page it is used. They do have a complete adjustment setup page in the AIM. I forgot, you have the same year so I looked up the section with the shifter. Having a BB 1968 Corvette in Germany must be some fun as long as you can afford the fuel. (My brother returned after 14 years in Germany.)
Best regards,
Chris
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 22
Likes: 5
From: Stuttgart, Germany
Shifter
Thank you Chris,
I have 68 and 69 AIM, but i have seen only how to adjust the shifter linkage.
My Interlock was bent, so i could not shift in reverse,therefore i bought the kit.
I will put the thicker one in, so I have less play.
In former times I had some US V8 even blowin engines, so i knew this 3x2 would be also a thirsty engine.
I am just driving for fun with it and this is it worth for me.
Our 100 octane was over 2 € a while ago, today the liter was 1,75€ and it seems to go higher again.
Greetings from germany
Jürgen
I have 68 and 69 AIM, but i have seen only how to adjust the shifter linkage.
My Interlock was bent, so i could not shift in reverse,therefore i bought the kit.
I will put the thicker one in, so I have less play.
In former times I had some US V8 even blowin engines, so i knew this 3x2 would be also a thirsty engine.
I am just driving for fun with it and this is it worth for me.
Our 100 octane was over 2 € a while ago, today the liter was 1,75€ and it seems to go higher again.
Greetings from germany
Jürgen
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 299
From: Midlothian VA
As your shifter ages with use the lever cage gets stretched out of square which gives the "slop" everyone complains about with our stock shifters. Truth is the original shifter is a nice unit when new. The thicker reverse lock out gate shim takes up that slop and is supposed to yield a tight shifter again. Last time I rebuilt one the slop was so bad that the thicker gate didn't do me much good so I chucked the gate cage in a vice and "resquared" it. Put the original thickness gate back in and ended up with a very nice & tight shifter. Choose your poison.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,759
Likes: 1,647
From: Fairfax Virginia
Hello again Jurgen,
So they still sell the 100 octane rated fuel in Europe? That is something I wish they did for us on the east Coast of the U.S.. Several years ago I drove across the United States and I noticed pumps in the mid west that sold 100 octane fuel without ethanol in it. I wish I had access to fuels with the higher octanes. I rebuilt my 427 into an L88 Clone and it is an amazing engine with the higher compression. My HP is near 560 and the torque not far behind but my engine desires 105 octane now that it has the L88 compression.
I chose Closed Chamber (stock on a 1968 C3's but not after that) cylinder heads for the engine and they don't have a big issue pinging or detonating. Then I am using a factory L88 Hood and wedding cake assembly. The wedding cake assembly allows the intake air to be pulled in from the base of the windshield and keeps the intake (combustion) air charge cooler which deters detonation. With the cold air the engine can make a lot more horsepower, many Corvettes are pulling in 150* (F) air into their combustion chambers and that is not a good thing if you want to make power. I see ambient or very close to ambient going into my engine even during the summer months. I use a water/methanol injection system to support my engine in the hotter months. It cools down the intake manifold and pushes the octane up to 116 octane. The systems can use windshield washer fluid in it while out on a trip and works nicely. I also have insulated all my fuel lines from the tank to my throttle body and re-routed all the fuel lines away from the heat from the radiator. Cooler fuel makes more power and deters detonation as well.
HammerheadFred suggests that our guessing was almost right. So by squeezing the lever cage in a vice it allows you to re-shape the box requiring the shorter pin and keeps it nice and tight. I am not sure how many times you can re-shape the box without damaging the walls. The longer part would have been my choice anyway unless reshaping the box could be done easily. In the case of HammerheadFred it sounds like the lockout gate was worn quite a bit.
I was very disappointed after searching the 1968 AIM for the Lock-out shifter breakdown. I looked for a while and found nothing showing how to set up the shifter gate. Being used on most every 1968 Corvette with an manual transmission in 1968, it doesn't make any sense.
So now you are on the path to solving the issue! This is great as we both learned something new here. This is one of the reasons the Corvette Forum works so very well, we help each other and learn all the time.
Good Luck with your 1968 Muscle Car/ Sports Car. Next time you are on the autobahn in your Corvette, be sure to think of all of us, here on the slower roads with our Corvettes where we don't have access to roads like you have over there! My C3 has a 3.36 rear and loves to cruise neat 75-80 mph with power to pass and break into the 100 mph range very easily. Here in the United States it will get you a pair of handcuffs very quickly if you get a bit carried away. In Virginia, where I live the maximum speed allowed anywhere is 85 mph, go over and you get arrested.
It has been a pleasure learning with you Jurgen! I wish you the very best!
Best regards,
Chris
So they still sell the 100 octane rated fuel in Europe? That is something I wish they did for us on the east Coast of the U.S.. Several years ago I drove across the United States and I noticed pumps in the mid west that sold 100 octane fuel without ethanol in it. I wish I had access to fuels with the higher octanes. I rebuilt my 427 into an L88 Clone and it is an amazing engine with the higher compression. My HP is near 560 and the torque not far behind but my engine desires 105 octane now that it has the L88 compression.
I chose Closed Chamber (stock on a 1968 C3's but not after that) cylinder heads for the engine and they don't have a big issue pinging or detonating. Then I am using a factory L88 Hood and wedding cake assembly. The wedding cake assembly allows the intake air to be pulled in from the base of the windshield and keeps the intake (combustion) air charge cooler which deters detonation. With the cold air the engine can make a lot more horsepower, many Corvettes are pulling in 150* (F) air into their combustion chambers and that is not a good thing if you want to make power. I see ambient or very close to ambient going into my engine even during the summer months. I use a water/methanol injection system to support my engine in the hotter months. It cools down the intake manifold and pushes the octane up to 116 octane. The systems can use windshield washer fluid in it while out on a trip and works nicely. I also have insulated all my fuel lines from the tank to my throttle body and re-routed all the fuel lines away from the heat from the radiator. Cooler fuel makes more power and deters detonation as well.
HammerheadFred suggests that our guessing was almost right. So by squeezing the lever cage in a vice it allows you to re-shape the box requiring the shorter pin and keeps it nice and tight. I am not sure how many times you can re-shape the box without damaging the walls. The longer part would have been my choice anyway unless reshaping the box could be done easily. In the case of HammerheadFred it sounds like the lockout gate was worn quite a bit.
I was very disappointed after searching the 1968 AIM for the Lock-out shifter breakdown. I looked for a while and found nothing showing how to set up the shifter gate. Being used on most every 1968 Corvette with an manual transmission in 1968, it doesn't make any sense.
So now you are on the path to solving the issue! This is great as we both learned something new here. This is one of the reasons the Corvette Forum works so very well, we help each other and learn all the time.
Good Luck with your 1968 Muscle Car/ Sports Car. Next time you are on the autobahn in your Corvette, be sure to think of all of us, here on the slower roads with our Corvettes where we don't have access to roads like you have over there! My C3 has a 3.36 rear and loves to cruise neat 75-80 mph with power to pass and break into the 100 mph range very easily. Here in the United States it will get you a pair of handcuffs very quickly if you get a bit carried away. In Virginia, where I live the maximum speed allowed anywhere is 85 mph, go over and you get arrested.
It has been a pleasure learning with you Jurgen! I wish you the very best!
Best regards,
Chris
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 22
Likes: 5
From: Stuttgart, Germany
Thank you Hammerhead Fred and Chris
Today I took everything apart, cleaned all, the sharp edges I smoothed something
I crimped the cage of the levers something so I could replace the thinner interrlock.
The cage had a small gap in the lever housing between this I placed a shim of 1 mm and now its all without play
All greased with new pins - perfect.
Best regards
Jürgen
Today I took everything apart, cleaned all, the sharp edges I smoothed something
I crimped the cage of the levers something so I could replace the thinner interrlock.
The cage had a small gap in the lever housing between this I placed a shim of 1 mm and now its all without play
All greased with new pins - perfect.
Best regards
Jürgen
