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Question about IAC Valves

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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 06:44 PM
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Default Question about IAC Valves

I'm needing to change the IAC valves on my '82 cross-fire. Since I need to buy two, I want to find a reasonable deal, But I see prices on these all over the place from $12 to over $100 each. What's the deal on this kind of price swing? Is this a quality issue, or is it price gouging?

I'm interested to know other's opinions based on their own experience.
1982 Corvette IAC valve
1982 Corvette IAC valve

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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 10:47 PM
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While I can’t speak directly to the price swings from manufacturer to manufacturer or reseller to reseller, what my opinion is is that the cheaper ones tend to be just that, cheap. They’re (and I dare say this with a truck load of salt) okay for a quick and ultra cheap replacement to get you where you need until you can afford the actual replacement. The cheaper ones are almost certainly knock offs from China that uses inferior components.

While the more expensive ones, while they may still be made in china (or generally imported from some place) are likely to be made to OEM specs. Not a guarantee but a far better chance.

I opted for a pair of Walker IAC valves off Rock Auto for around $55 each at the time. They’ve worked well for me so far.

The stock AC Delco valves don’t seem to be produced anymore. Summit shows they’re estimated to ship late July but I also don’t recall ever seeing them ready to ship or in stock. NAPA has a Delphi made valve which is the one I would go with, budget allowing.

For reference, I own another vehicle that I was testing out new fuel injectors, I bought the cheap set (same brand that makes the IAC valve for $12) and it tanked my fuel economy. Again, good for in a pinch but certainly wouldn’t stick with it long term.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 05:15 AM
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Parts like this I simply DO NOT price shop on.
I might really look into the very best IAC. I may read reviews on a few that interest me.
But look for the best price?
Your car mate.
I would be looking for genuine
Delphi. Or another top quality replacement.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 09:00 AM
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Just be really careful when you buy the replacement. IAC valves. I have a 1988 C4 and it has a IAC on the EFI system. While rebuilding my EGR system I went to buy a new IAC at my local NAPA Store/Warehouse. They went and got me the SAME Part Number and it had a totally different Pintle shape and it would NOT work with my system. We pulled a few units from the shelf and sure enough the two different styles were mixed in together.

There were more than one shape of the Pintle used on the IAC on my C4. I would be very, very careful when buying a new IAC to verify that it has the same shape Pintle as the original had. If you get the wrong shape it will not be able to do the job in your EFI system.

Buying quality parts means you won't have to replace them as quickly.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 03:02 PM
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I have to ask! Why do they need to be replaced? JP
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by peters220
I have to ask! Why do they need to be replaced? JP
Idle surges... not a vacuum leak and not EGR.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by klturi421
While I can’t speak directly to the price swings from manufacturer to manufacturer or reseller to reseller, what my opinion is is that the cheaper ones tend to be just that, cheap. They’re (and I dare say this with a truck load of salt) okay for a quick and ultra cheap replacement to get you where you need until you can afford the actual replacement. The cheaper ones are almost certainly knock offs from China that uses inferior components.

While the more expensive ones, while they may still be made in china (or generally imported from some place) are likely to be made to OEM specs. Not a guarantee but a far better chance.

I opted for a pair of Walker IAC valves off Rock Auto for around $55 each at the time. They’ve worked well for me so far.

The stock AC Delco valves don’t seem to be produced anymore. Summit shows they’re estimated to ship late July but I also don’t recall ever seeing them ready to ship or in stock. NAPA has a Delphi made valve which is the one I would go with, budget allowing.

For reference, I own another vehicle that I was testing out new fuel injectors, I bought the cheap set (same brand that makes the IAC valve for $12) and it tanked my fuel economy. Again, good for in a pinch but certainly wouldn’t stick with it long term.
Thank you. That was the answer I was looking for. I don't like doing things twice, and don't like overspending for equal quality. So I'm opting for the more spendy part hoping it will last a great while longer than the cheap knock-offs. I appreciate your input.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 04:31 PM
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I hope you are not offended. Did you troubleshoot? Did you drive it warmed up and drive over 45 MPH for a couple of miles? Did you have the battery disconnected? Is TPS set correctly? Is engine coolant temp sensor good? Did you do a hard reset according to the manual? JP

Last edited by peters220; Jun 23, 2025 at 06:28 PM. Reason: Removed inaccurate sentence.
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Old Jun 27, 2025 | 02:34 PM
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I got the new IAC valve (pictured left), and I pulled the others to compare. First thing I noticed is that no 2 pintels are the same length. Is that normal? I suspect the black one (center) may be the surging idle culprit because it looks like a cheap knock-off part. It came out of the passenger side TB. The far right IAC came from the driver's side TB.


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Old Jun 27, 2025 | 02:44 PM
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Push or wiggle the pintles as far in as you can then put them back in and drive the car warmed up above 45 MPH for a couple of miles. Don't get rough with them or twist the pintles. See if it idles. JP
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Old Jun 27, 2025 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by John@scc
I got the new IAC valve (pictured left), and I pulled the others to compare. First thing I noticed is that no 2 pintels are the same length. Is that normal? I suspect the black one (center) may be the surging idle culprit because it looks like a cheap knock-off part. It came out of the passenger side TB. The far right IAC came from the driver's side TB.
What brand is the one to the left? Looks like the Walker that I got off RockAuto. The black one is closer to Delphi or AC Delco. If you look up the product images for them they're black in color where are the non-AC Delco/Delphi ones are black.

As for the pintle length, that does not matter. There is a stepper motor that extends and retracts the pintle. The one on the left, if not yet installed, is likely at the fully retracted position where as the others are where the ECM left them prior to pulling the valves. As long as you don't pull on the pintle it should be fine. Pulling the pintle leads to risk of breaking the stepper motor and breaking it all together.

If the ones on the right are the ones that were previously installed and you pulled them both at the same time, i would look at balancing your throttle bodies as the one on the right is much more extended than the one in the center meaning that the ECM could be compensating for lack of air flow in the one on the center with by opening it and letting more air bypass the butterfly.
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