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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 10:56 PM
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Default Rear Axle







Ok guys here i go again attempting to do only one thing then all of a sudden out of no where, this happened.it was only supposed to take a few hours on a Saturday afternoon, now its Sunday night and i cant separate the axle from the knuckle. oh yeah not to mention i had to cut the trailing arms out of the knuckle. So what am i doing wrong in order to get the axle out of knuckle?
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 03:58 AM
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WOW!
I don't know, just remove them with the correct knocker tool with the arms in place is what I would do.
Now that you've pulled your car apart this far. Just pop em in a press and press em apart.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 07:58 AM
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Those are a press fit so you’ll need to “persuade” them.

Also know that the outer bearing is a press fit as well. Do you know how to properly set the bearing play?

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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 08:53 AM
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As mentioned, the bearings are- should be- press fit. The only thing holding the axle in the bearing support now is the inner bearing. Looking at the parts, they are original and showing their age.

I think you have two options here.

1- assemble it using most of those old parts, and end up doing it again
2- get the correct new parts, set the bearings up correctly, assemble the arms, align the car. Maybe this was you intention, but you didn't state what the one thing was you started on. Now you are committed. Since I see original seals in place, those have never been apart. While this isn't rocket science by any means, you won't get the correct endplay by just swapping in new bearings. To remove the axles, I use the common knocker tool all the vendors sell. I have the arm out of the car and use a 4 or 5 lb mini sledge to drive them out. I never use a press to remove axles, but you may if have the correct plates to press out the axle. Given the amount of rust on the parts, not unusual, you may find the front bushing bolts seized to the inner steel bushing sleeve and have to cut each side to remove the arm. The bushings are probably dry rotted, the arm must or should be checked for rot and being bent.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 02:24 PM
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There is a specific press to remove the axle. I know they sell spindle knockers that thread over the threads, but I wouldn't use it. However they have 2 different size air hammer tools, which is better than beating it with a hammer.
Here's an example. If you price shop you might find it cheaper. https://www.southerncarparts.com/spi...xoC53UQAvD_BwE
There is also an installer as well as a set up tool so you can adjust the end play without pressing the shaft on and off. Worth every penny.

Last edited by Mrvettenick; Jun 23, 2025 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrvettenick
There is a specific press to remove the axle. I know they sell spindle knockers that thread over the threads, but I wouldn't use it.
Here's an example. If you price shop you might find it cheaper. https://www.southerncarparts.com/spi...xoC53UQAvD_BwE
There is also a set up tool so you can adjust the end play without pressing the shaft on and off. Worth every penny.

That press tool is a copy of the Kent Moore tool. In theory it is a good tool, however most of the bearings are pressed on the axle very tight. That tool uses bolts that screw into the caliper bracket and offer support. The problem is the caliper brackets can be bent using this tool since the axle/bearing fit is tight. The install tool draws the axle on the bearing. I had those very tools in my toolbox for decades and never once used them. I have built 100's of TA and the knocker tool has been what I used for all of them. Many years ago, I setup the assembly on the press remove the axle but that is not recommended. The cost for those two tools is much more than the knocker tool and even a new mini sledge at Home Depot.

Granted, people can use what they like but if the bracket is bent and not found to be bent, then it will show up once the arm is on the car and the caliper attempted to be square. At that point, the arm would have to be broken down again, wrecking the new bearings and seals in the process.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
That press tool is a copy of the Kent Moore tool. In theory it is a good tool, however most of the bearings are pressed on the axle very tight. That tool uses bolts that screw into the caliper bracket and offer support. The problem is the caliper brackets can be bent using this tool since the axle/bearing fit is tight. The install tool draws the axle on the bearing. I had those very tools in my toolbox for decades and never once used them. I have built 100's of TA and the knocker tool has been what I used for all of them. Many years ago, I setup the assembly on the press remove the axle but that is not recommended. The cost for those two tools is much more than the knocker tool and even a new mini sledge at Home Depot.

Granted, people can use what they like but if the bracket is bent and not found to be bent, then it will show up once the arm is on the car and the caliper attempted to be square. At that point, the arm would have to be broken down again, wrecking the new bearings and seals in the process.
I agree that the knocker tool is way less expensive, but I have used the press many times without a problem. I guess every situation is different. If someone has concerns then it's just easier to take it to a machine shop if you don't have a press. Just make sure that they know the end play is supposed to be like .001" to .008".
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Old Jun 24, 2025 | 12:14 AM
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i think i went to far. Are they sold as a complete bearing already assembled?
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Old Jun 24, 2025 | 12:37 AM
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orvettecentral.com/c3-68-82/suspension/rear-control-trailing-arm/65-82-rear-wheel-bearing-assembly-without-rotor-582072r?returnurl=%2fc3-68-82%2fsuspension%2frear-control-trailing-arm%2f%3fcount%3d18 if i was to purchase this would this take care of the run out issue and are these good pieces?
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Old Jun 24, 2025 | 06:44 AM
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Van Steel offers an exchange service. They are in Florida.
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