No, I'm not going that far south. PA is it on this trip. I'm here in PA now and met with two people that were former dealers of Dynamic EFI at dinner. In the morning, we are going over to Dynamic EFI to do a complete site survey in hopes of salvaging the business.

Unfortunately, I don't need any more CFI parts, I have a enough right now, but thanks for the offer.

As for the OP issue, I hope you get around to trying some things that have been suggested. You already do have issues as you have pointed out and they need to be addressed as a starting point if nothing else just so you can pinpoint where the issue is coming from. It should be easy once the basics are good to go.

 

Aside from the throttle bodies, what other 82 stuff do you have? I'm looking to potentially add a few back up parts.

 

About 90% of the CFI system. Two intakes, the rubber diamond on the hood, air cleaner, etc

 

Thanks again to everyone providing your ideas.

Today’s tests :
Check engine light is out..
Checked for CEL codes using my older craftsman reader.. No DTC’s found

**Tested the TPS per the service manual and with 2 different meters. Initial reading .216
after adjusting to the maximum physical limit of the screws it now reads .404 Obviously this is not right and my hope is that this can also effect the popping under acceleration. Still popping even after adjusting tps to .404

Thanks again for everyone’s help, much appreciated!

 

Thanks again for keeping my issue in mind. I posted an update to some of the test that you recommended.

 

Here’s one video from today. I believe the popping is hard to hear on video but it is happening in this one.

 

You said vacuum was low, what are the readings? What's the vacuum gauge doing during that? Do you still get the noise at steady throttle or only when you rev it?

I agree with the post about pulling the valve covers to inspect everything. The other thing is more diagnosis on the distributor. I really don't think it's a TPS issue.

 

I agree with this after watching the video.

 

Hello again..

Recording from today. Under mild to possibly medium acceleration from about a 5mph roll to maybe 20mph. Popping is clearly audible in this clip. Keep in mind the popping starts then I let up the throttle each time.

Thanks for listening!

 

Thanks again for your help. I can only post short videos so here is a clip of the vacuum gauge while mild revving.

What do you think?

 

In that second video it sounding more like a rod knock or a loose torque converter.

 

Thanks again for your help.. I’ll have to find someone local with auto mechanic experience to list to it with your ideas in mind. Hopefully this weekend.

Thank you!

 

if your TPS is adjusted to the correct level maxed out, Id kind of suspect its not working right. Its likely at least needing a replacement so id suggest doing that first. The sound posted sounds like knock - rod knock, valve issue, or lean/rich issue, idk. i gotta say though, the 2nd video posted shows a LOT of fuel coming out on not a lot of throttle actuation. Wonder if that will cause a "knock" sound as it misfires when too rich?

 

Its always hard to tell not being there but it does sound like a knock, not sure of the RPMs but it was rapid and steady in that second video...Loose TC or even a cracked flex plate could do that but I think he said only on decell..

OP: Before ripping into things get a stethoscope or the old garden hose trick and give the engine a listen, a noise that loud should not be too hard to find. Did it gradually start happening or all of a sudden?

​​​​​​​60

 

Im still on the TPS dead-spot train. it almost sounds like when youre trying to start a car on starter fluid and it has that "knock"

 

Good morning..

Thanks again for everyone’s latest thoughts, please keep them coming..

Update. Installed new TPS. It is the same as the original. Meaning I have to force it to the maximum physical setting and I still can’t get the .525 volt reading. But if I open the throttle it goes up to .525 and sweeps all the way to 2-4 volts ( sorry I did not remember the exact voltage. One theory I have is that the computer uses that base voltage of .525 as the known position of the throttle fully closed and maybe being able to only get .4 something throws the whole range off??

I assure you that it is a pop not a knock. I can tell that by the snap of the sound and when it occurs when I blip the throttle . In other words It happens when I blip it in park but the engine has not yet increased rpm. I hope this new video shows that better. Notice that the engine rpms aren’t changing yet we hear the pop.

tested the MAP with manual vacuum and it seems to act correctly and how the manual says it should.

Thanks again! I appreciate your help..

 

Have you checked the TB balance? Since you can't the right voltage, even with the new TPS, I think something is out of whack.

Even with the new video, I still suspect the ignition system. Try doing the throttle blip with the SPOUT disconnected (the thing you disconnect for checking the timing). Still the exact same behavior?

 

This is not a fuel injection problem, it's not a ignition problem, it's not a unbalanced throttle body problem, it's a mechanical problem with the engine. Pull the valve covers as others said.

 

WOW! Somewhat crazy issue...What did you do last before you had this issue or did it just happen out of the blue and you did nothing? Odd issue and it does sound like a mechanical issue since no CEL. Whatever it is, the ECM seems to be happy with it. Balance comes to mind here since your TPS is way off and cannot be adjusted properly. It is possible that you have multiple issues going on here.

As mentioned, I would have a very careful examination of the valvetrain, you may find that something is amiss or a cam lobe issue. If one or two valves are lower than the others opening, you have a cam lobe issue which would be bad of course. Use a dial indicator to make an accurate check. Since it is very hard to hear the issue in your vid, but the tic tic is not normal for sure but could easily be a lifter issue also. That would have nothing to do with your TPS issue though. You also mentioned I think in the beginning that your vacuum was low. According to your gauge at idle, 18 is not really low. 18-21 would be in the normal range IMO, 14 or less would be low and undrivable with power brakes, unless you really don't want to stop. Keep posting up things done and checked, you will find the issue. GL

Also, if anyone is interested, I spent the entire day at Dynamic EFI. WOW! So much stuff, more than I ever anticipated. We went through a lot and there is still a little more to go through. One of the hangups is the firmware and software source code. We made image copies of the HD (which was an old spinner drive running XP) We are going to try to hack the drive and get it to boot into the desktop which I think we can do it. I also need the Gerber files for the board build. Found tons of chips, solder masks, lots of ECMs, drawings and schematics and much more. In the end it is a move in the right direction, but will take a bit longer than I thought. Just a small update.

 

thank you.. I will try this. Just confirm the spout is the electrical connection that is disconnected for the timing check? I’ll test and report back.