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I do not remember being "able to push" the window mechanism and window down on a power window without power, I don't think it is a good idea to do that. If you pulled the motor then it might be easier to lower the window and figure out what is not working.. If you have the older C3 like my 1968 then it has all the power going through the power window switch to operate the window motor. This leads them to fail easily as it is a poor design, they can stop working anytime after a bit of corrosion takes over.
First, Do you have a good battery with 12 volts plus while sitting, not running? I check at the battery and then go to the alternator output or horn relay to verify that the engine is grounded. You need to check the voltage while using the engine for the ground (0Vdc) when measuring the voltage. Then check the fuse for the power windows. On my 1968 it is a simple circuit and if a window stops working it is most likely the power related components and not the frame and rollers used in the window raising mechanism. I have experienced both over the years. I have been able to get the window motors work again simply by cleaning the contacts and wire connections.
If the battery voltage is good then if you can pull the lower center cover where the switches are located. If you can, try to jump the two power terminals that carry the power and then window motor should turn. In most cases it requires removing the inner door panel to gain access the wires easily.
Cleaning the connections might help and opening then and reconnecting them helps clean the contacts. I use a #2 Pencil eraser to clean most small contact surfaces, it has worked for decades for me. Today I use something called DeOxIt which is a chemical cleaning agent that helps clean the corrosion off the contacts surfaces.
Last edited by ctmccloskey; Jul 10, 2025 at 11:14 AM.
You won't be able to force them down without breaking something in the process.
Before removing the center armrest to check the switches, pull the door panels and check the power into the motors. (I think that is easier to do than wrestling with the console.) I believe the ground for the motors comes from their door mount, so when checking for power, touch the negative lead to the housing and if no power touch the lead to the body's metal frame above the side kick-panels.
Rethought this, so see next message.
Last edited by barkingrats; Jul 10, 2025 at 12:52 PM.
Since it's both windows being affected, I wonder if your p/window breaker is shot or not connected. I'm not sure for '74, but for '72 the breaker is located on the firewall to the left of the brake master cylinder/booster.
