Hello all.

First off, I can't begin to tell you all how much of a help everyone has been to since I have joined this group. Thank you all.

I am in the process of getting the engine rebuilt and I want an opinion on a good set of Headers for a '68 427, preferably long tube. I found a few, but they look to be for a side pipe setup... I think I am going to stick to the factory straight pipe set up on this car.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have a 1968 Corvette convertible with a solid lifter 427 in it and a four speed. The headers I use were made by Hedman Headers and they fit perfectly without any hammering or re-shaping of the long tubes used in the headers, I have never had ANY leaks from the header bolts or flange warping because the Hedman headers are well built and have thick flanges on them.

Side pipes look like they were designed for the Corvettes but I personally have a large scar on my inner right leg from hot exhaust pipes (chrome Hooker Side pipe). I have a cousin with a 1967 with side pipes and I hate riding in that car. If I had it I would sell it right away as I hate the noise from the exhaust system.

On our 1968 C3 we used a Chambered Exhaust System that makes the same sounds as a side pipe but the noise is out behind of you versus next to you. The Chambered Pipes I have were available in three levels of sound, mine sound really mean with the popping and spitting from a high compression engine. My engine sounds like a real performance engine through the exhaust. I was so impressed with the Chambered exhaust systems that I put one on my 1988 C4 as well. The L98 engine from the 1988 is only 255 hp but sounds ferocious through the exhaust.

I have heard so many stories about headers leaking all the time that I was hesitant at first. Using a Soft Copper or Aluminum Header gasket will ensure no leaking.

 

I have a set of heddmans that needed to be massages in a couple of places to get them to fit. not sure what hooker makes anymore but they used to have 2 sets of supercomp's for the BBC. the set with 1 7/8" primarys i think fit pretty good but the 2 1/8" primary headers will hang too low and extend too far to the rear to hook up the stock exhaust with the stock crossmember. also there is a company called McJacks that made a set of long tube headers that look like an exact copy of the old blackjack 3000 headers not sure if they still do make them. no matter what you end up getting be prepared to have to massage them to get them to fit. every car is different and the headers are not made as consistant as they used to be. just because a set fit one persons car with no tweaking does not mean they will fit yours with no tweaking even though they are the exact same part #.
Pat

 

I appreciate the input, guys!

@ctmccloskey , do you remember the diameter of those Headmans?

 

I believe they are 2-1/8" header pipes that feed into the collectors. They are not stepped or anything. Mine stay tight under my Corvette and have never touched any ground. Headman claims they use set-up jigs for setting up the pipes before they weld them together. I have been very satisfied with their quality as I have been using them on my C3 since the mid 1990's.

The one point I would like to add is that you shouldn't use ceramic coated Headers on a newly rebuilt engine. The higher friction can make the engine run hotter and it can damage/burn the first few inches of the coating. If you have a performance engine that is broken-in then you should have no issues.

I am using the L88 pistons and with the compression and I did it strictly for making horsepower. My engine came out to 12.25-1 compression versus Chevrolet using the same parts and getting 12.5-1 compression. Needless to say the extra compression increases the temperature inside of the combustion chamber and this caused my first few inches of each pipe's silver ceramic coating to be burned off. I have the option of buying a new set of them and having them re-coated to a higher temperature material. NASCAR engine use higher compression and their exhaust systems look great even after racing for hours.

My car has Power Steering, Power Brakes and Power Windows with a four speed, nothing else (but the 427) under the hood. My engine does not have the A.I.R. Injection system that came with the 1968 models. I do have a serpentine belt conversion with my Steeroids Power rack and Pinion but otherwise it is all open up there to my electric radiator fans.

The 1968 C3 is a great car and I love working on it as there is nothing there that doesn't make the car go, and go quickly. I also believe the 1968 C3 should be recognized as a Muscle car as well as a Sports car. I have converted my 427 to run on a Holley EFI system and am using a factory 1988 L88 Hood on my C3. And people tell me that C3's are slow.....

 

Thanks for the info!

That's funny because I am looking to do something similar to my setup, as far as L88 components under the hood. I have access to a pair of long tube Headman headers that came off a '66 Vette and may just pull the trigger on them after reading this. My '68 also has the L88 hood, not to mention I have a '90 Trans Am GTA with the L98 motor much like the one in your '88 Vette. LOL

My '68 does not have power steering or power brakes, but I am looking at options to upgrade these things also.

 

My experience of the Hedman Hedders I fitted to my '68 L36 coupe was good. Used them for perhaps 10 years with the almost stock 427. They had 1 7/8" primaries and no issues with fit or noticeable header flange leaks. The only detrimental thing I'll note is the collectors were very close to the floor pan and transmitted additional heat in to the cabin.
I later upgraded the engine to a 'built' 570 hp stroker 489.........and they were once again fine (or so it seemed)........however it was only when I chose to install a pair of 2 1/8" Hooker Super Comps that I realised how inadequate the 1 7/8" Hedmans were using an engine with 50% more HP & TQ than stock.
Fit of the larger diameter and considerably longer and lower Hookers was great - perhaps even better than the Hedmans.........the difference in upper-end power was surprising over 4000 rpm......really significant in fact.
However with the header exits so low, so far back and just in front of the front cross member (but totally in the wrong position) meant that the custom built 3" stainless 'X' pipe system I had built had to run under the chassis. So no lowered suspension for me. Have to be really careful with a 'heavy' passenger over uneven and raised road surfaces. Driveway and garage ramps are difficult. I've tried solid copper header gaskets and various others - for the last 10 years I have been using a set of Percy's multi-layer alloy gaskets (someone else makes them now) they have been on and off a few times and always seal 100%. Neither od the header had issues with fit in the chassis - some of the Hookers tubes are as close as 1/8" to the chassis. I found that a set of new Poly engine mounts seemed to maximise the clearance and centralise the engine and headers in the chassis.

 

I appreciate this information... I'll start doing some homework on the Hooker Super Comps.

 

I bought three different sets of Hooker headers for my big block and each set fit a little differently.
I also bought two sets of Hedman headers and neither set fit.
The first set I purchased were already ceramic coated and I didn’t want to scratch them up.
The second set I purchased were the same model but were just factory painted.
I had to modify them to fit and give good clearance at the passenger side frame rail, the starter, and the oem steering box.
After I got them to fit I had them ceramic coated and they were perfect.
I also purchased a set of Sanderson Short Tube headers that were better quality that the others and they fit with plenty of clearance and without modification.
I really wanted the long tube headers, but honestly I liked the Sanderson’s better because of the difference in quality.
Another important thing to consider is ground clearance which is greatly reduced with any long tube header.
The Hookers hung down lower than the Hedmans.
I posted an entire thread with all the issues I had.
In the thread it explains the best technique to modify the primary tubes and please don’t use a hammer.
Heat and rolling the tube with a wood baseball bat makes the beautiful.

 

Wow.... definitely something to consider with the Hooker long tubes....

Thanks!

 

None of the Hookers even came close to fitting.
The drivers side fit with one set, but all three needed a tube to be cut out and rerouted to clear the idler arm.

 

They aren't cheap. but probably make more power than other brand under car headers https://americanracingheaders.com/co...32355361062966

 

Good info as always. I think I scored the last set of NOS Hooker 2225 in the country last year. They have been out of production for years. They are getting coated right now so they can go on my 496. Since I have the Bow Tie Overdrive tubular crossmember (T-56 Magnum) and solid motor mounts, I am hoping that there will be no insurmountable issues. I have a shop in town lined up to do a custom 3” exhaust.

 

Sounds like a nice setup!

 

Thanks! I'll look into these as well.

 

American Racing Headers make a great header, but you’ll pay over $3k.
When I called them they told me they won’t guarantee fitment unless they build them on the car, they are stainless steel which put off a lot of heat and painting or ceramic coating them voids their warranty.
They are great for race cars but the heat issue makes them not so great for street cars.

 

Their webpage shows a cost of $1800.00. Yes they are stainless which will drive up the cost but there is no need for coatings or wraps. I've never done any on a C3 but I've installed dozens of arh headers on C5,6,7's with no fitment issues. But with any header install, wiring clearance, starter heat protection, and plug wire routing and protection are important. As they say: you get what you pay for.

 

As good as stainless steel can potentially be.......my worry would be the quality and 'workabilty' of the grade selected given that once shaped and bent etc stress on the material may lead to localised cracking. Wrapping is often the kiss of death for mild steel and possible enbrittlement for stainless steel. Its pleasing that one maker still does headers for BBC powered Vettes.....and more importantly 2 1/8" tubing.

 

no need to wrap them. Like I posted earlier, I've installed dozens of them with no issues and this is going back for 20 years. FWIW, ACP/Stahl makes that size but only in a side exit. Kerry "may" have the jigs to do undercar headers.

 

What was their reasoning that stainless steel headers "put off a lot of heat"? Stainless has a higher thermal impedance than mild steel, so while the inside wall may run hotter due to the insulating qualities, the outside wall will emit less heat into the engine compartment.

Just curious.