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Some of you might have seen my recent post about stiff power steering. I've about decided the control valve is faulty (recent
install / reman). I'm desperately seeking an easier/cheaper resolution. While taking another look at the valve and attached hoses I see that both hoses do rub the ram bracket when turned to the right. During installation of the valve I tried diligently to get the correct angles on the attached hoses. And I'm 100% certain the placement of the hoses is correct regarding upper and lower connection. I've attached a photo of the AIM illustration for the hose angles. The AIM note states this placement is necessary to avoid hoses rubbing anything. My question is: If I have to deviate from the noted angles to avoid rubbing, is that what I should do? Before installing the new hoses I compared them to the previous hoses and they appeared to match (hose length and radius of the curved metal tube sections).
Bottom line, should I adjust the orientation of the hoses on the valve to provide adequate clearance? Seems like hose A needs to rotate up slightly and hose B down.
I don't think the degrees of separation are particularly important - at least I didn't measure mine when I installed them As long as they form an X, where the valve top hose goes to the bottom ram port and vice versa, the angle created should be whatever holds the hoses so they aren't rubbing on anything.
Here's a pic from John Hinckley (corvette answerman extraordinaire) from '07 of his car. Note the small shield and the hose placement in relation to the center rectangle. I can measure my shield's rectangle height if you don't have the shield.
Been a few years since I replaced my control valve and hoses. Remember reading posts mentioning the the correct configuration and angles during my research.
I treated the angles as starting point guides assuming I would need to cycle back and forth lock to lock several times to finalize final positions. Took several tries to find and lock everything down in the exact right position. I was able to get it without adding the shield.
Thanks for the replies folks. I suppose I’ll carefully widen the angle until there’s no rubbing. I doubt this has any bearing on the stiff steering, but just grasping at straws trying to avoid replacing the valve.
Absolutely your grasping at straws. And frankly, not thinking clearly.
The fluid is going to go through the hose no matter the angle.
Just move on. Do you have the ORIGINAL control valve? If so rebuild it. If not. Sorry, my experience with replacement control valves tells me your screwed.
(Oh, and I love the fact your looking for a easier/ Cheaper solution when working on a C3. Everytime I thought that way, and I do mean Everytime. It bit me in the *** hard! Poor man pays twice).
One thing about the original control valves, overloading them with grease will destroy them.
I tracked my car in 2024 and when I came home the car trailer was full of power steering fluid. The control valve was shot (it was the original 1969). I tried for quite some time to find either a USA made valve or one with American parts. I was unable to find one. You may have more luck. I wasn’t sure about rebuilding it myself and the parts I would get.
I sent an email to the manufacturer, Lares regarding their valve. This is their reply:
“Hello,
Some of the parts on a #10025 do come from overseas but everything is built here in house. We do test these units for pressure, seal leaks and flow before they are boxed to ship to you. You have a lifetime warranty with this product as long as you keep your original paperwork. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you.”
As far as replacement power steering hoses, the same issue applies. There are cheap hoses and better choices. I read a post where good manufacturers are recommended. Others may chime in here to help make a good choice.
You may also want to consider taking pictures of your power steering setup. The members on this site are great and may notice something from the pictures that will help.
4-vettes - No way do I think the alignment of the hoses would interfere with the fluid. I can see that one of the hoses does rub the ram bracket when turning right and just maybe causing enough drag to contribute to the right turn stiffness. I asked about alignment because of the precise degree angles stated in the AIM, wondering if there is some scientific reason for such specificity. Based on other replies, I'll move on to the align the hoses as needed to clear the bracket and not worry about the angles. And no, I don't have the original valve. I replaced it decades ago with a reman that lasted for years before beginning to seep fluid.
From whom did you purchase the reman control head? I suspect there are 'problems' lurking within. Have you contacted the rebuilder? Most will offer at least a 30 day warranty, as they DO NOT test them before shipping them to you.
My experience is quite different from others. I had the original unit on the car and I rebuilt it myself. No problems. Just bought a rebuild kit and went to work.
If your hoses/pipes hit other stuff, move them to where they will not. The drawing in the AIM is a good starting spot. But, with parts changes, past accident damage, etc. stuff can get 'moved'. Adjust it so it has clearance.
7T1vette - Reman valve purchased from ZIP. Far too long ago to expect warranty replacement. I might ask them if they will give a bit of a discount on another valve. I called a few days ago and they only have reman in stock - no new.
I have realigned the hoses to avoid any rubbing. Did more testing with ram disconnected/connected, tie rod ends disconnected/connected, wheels up/down. With wheels up the travel is good end to end with the engine running. Wheels down difficult to turn right. Turning from full right back to left is fine.
I can't help but think something is wrong with the control valve because I have to turn the adjusting nut more than a full rotation to change direction of the ram movement. When the ram does move it will go to full extension or full retraction. I try to split the difference, but nothing changes with the performance.
Peterbuilt- these are the steps I followed. The only possible exception is that I waited for the ram to stop its travel before turning the nut in the opposite direction. Perhaps that’s my failure. Should I reverse the turn of the nut as soon as the travel BEGINS?
Peterbuilt- these are the steps I followed. The only possible exception is that I waited for the ram to stop its travel before turning the nut in the opposite direction. Perhaps that’s my failure. Should I reverse the turn of the nut as soon as the travel BEGINS?
👍
You don't want the ram to stop on its own as that means it hit the end of its travel. As the rod is moving, rotate the adjuster the other way, and back if adjusted too far. You want to stop the rod in the middle of its travel, not at the ends - that's probably why it's taking a full turn (+/-) of the adjuster nut. Once you're adjusting mid-travel, the nut only needs 1/8 or 1/4 turn to stop the movement.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
As barkingrats said, try using a slight, small turn as said of 1/8 or 1/4 because you want the rod to stop in the middle.
A small turn will send the rod out, and a small turn the other way sends it back in.
Then find halfway and turn the nut to that position.
When centered, you can move the rod in or out and it will stay where you leave it.
Yahoo - well - maybe. After properly adjusting the control valve (per barkingrats and Peterbuilt with emphasis on the ram BEGIN to move), steering seems to be fine for both left and right. I say "maybe" because my testing is limited to the shop. The chance of rain is too high to road test.
Thanks folks for all the help. Now on to improving the performance of my new/reman brake system.
Yahoo - well - maybe. After properly adjusting the control valve (per barkingrats and Peterbuilt with emphasis on the ram BEGIN to move), steering seems to be fine for both left and right. I say "maybe" because my testing is limited to the shop. The chance of rain is too high to road test.
Thanks folks for all the help. Now on to improving the performance of my new/reman brake system.
Good job, barkinrats and peterbuilt were spot on. Power steering in these old cars is nice to have.
Yahoo - well - maybe. After properly adjusting the control valve (per barkingrats and Peterbuilt with emphasis on the ram BEGIN to move), steering seems to be fine for both left and right. I say "maybe" because my testing is limited to the shop. The chance of rain is too high to road test.
Thanks folks for all the help. Now on to improving the performance of my new/reman brake system.
Glad it worked (maybe). But don't let rain interfere with science!
Power Steering Control Valve Hose Alignment
