I am sorry to hear that you had a problem with the Phoenix Reverse Bleeder there kanvasman! What kind of trouble did the Phoenix system make for you? I am truly sorry to hear that it didn't work out for you. I have been using my old Phoenix V-12 system for decades and I still have the collection of Motive Bleeders, Vacuum Bleeders and even those darned Speed-Bleeders with the in-line check valves all gathering dust. The Phoenix system appears a bit complicated and that turns some folks off of them, the kit I bought came with a ton of adapters to do bench bleeding and clutch master bleeding.

Keeping the excess fluid under control can make a real mess unless it is thought out ahead of time. I learned to protect the area with rags around the bowl under the master cylinder. The Turkey baster works great for removal of the excess fluid. Once I learned how the system works I was ready for action and it has been very useful for a variety of vehicles in my world.

I like using this system because I have it down to a "fine art" bleeding the vehicles I play with. I use it on my C3 and my C4 and flush them every five years. Once I was not afraid of making a mess and damaging my paint job I was able to experiment and that is when I learned about (lightly) tapping the calipers and brake line unions and blocks while bleeding the brakes on the vehicle. When I start bleeding at the right rear I can see the fresh fluid coming back into the master cylinder where the new fluid enters with no bubbles into the reservoir.

Replacing the bleeder screws is a great idea and should almost be done as maintenance. I too like finding a new set as they seal better to the holes in the caliper. Less room for air to get pulled into the system or fluid to find a way out.

Having a good set of SAE wrenches means you only have to buy them once. Harbor Freight doesn't sell that quality of equipment that I have seen. I have a set that I bought at Sears Roebuck that were the Craftsmen brand back in the 1970's and they are still perfect and work like new. An inexpensive flare nut wrench can make a huge mess of a nut if it is not a perfect fit with the wrench. I often wonder if the foreign manufacturers are trying to make a part half SAE, half Metric, the wrenches are loose and the sockets don't fit snugly enough. Buy quality the first time and be done with it.

If you replace the rubber hoses that connect the calipers to the chassis braking system consider the Stainless Steel jacketed lines as I like the brake pedal feeling they give you. I have a 1968 C3 with a 427 and I was able to lock up the four wheels with a good hard stomp on the brakes. The rubber hoses are able to expand when the brakes are pushed which could reduce the amount of fluid going to the brake caliper. The SS jacketed hoses cannot expand and therefore the pedal feeling is a bit different.

If you do buy a set of new rubber or SS hoses for the brakes be sure they come with D.O.T. Tag on them showing that they are legal for use on the roads of the United States. I have seen Chinese kits that were not D.O.T. approved for sale on the internet and they are cheaper, just not for use in the U.S..

 

OK. Quick update. I was able to remove the connection (flare nut) where the rubber hose goes to the rear brake caliper. Sure enough no flow. I will be waiting for the hose kit to arrive and then get the rear lines swapped out first. I did come up with another brake issue. The driver side rear had brake fluid leaking. Assuming I didn't tighten the bleeder, I went in for a quick fix only to discover the caliper was leaking. That explains the low fluid in the reservoir when the car arrived on in June. No biggy. We'll just add calipers to the to do list. Looks like a rebuild kit is about the same price as new calipers, so any dispute that new calipers are the way to go?

 

Just an add. Thank you for the look for the DOT tag on the lines. I got lucky and got the approved lines.

 

Your problems sound like the issues i had! First suggestion rebuild caliper using existing core if caliper bores are not pitted. If just rusted hone out with three stone honing tool. Second item that i had a issue with Master Cylinder and mine was just five years old. Remove and bleed very important and check prior for leaking throat where it attaches to booster. Third for parts go to SSBC in Florida they can provide with parts and are a wealth of knowledge and are Corvette people.

 

I know if I buy an O-ring rebuild kit from CSSB Inc and do the work myself, the calipers function and don't leak (going on 7 years now).

Where are you getting calipers for the price of a kit? Do you really trust the rebuild in that case?

If you just want new calipers, buy Wilwood direct replacements.

 

I don't know why I came up with $175 for a rebuild kit. Long day in the sun messing with brakes I guess. Thanks for getting me to check my research, Rebuild...Yes.

 

If you are going to rebuild them yourself, here's a tip: crack the caliper bolts loose that join the two halves while the caliper is still mounted in the car. These are torqued to something like 130 ft lbs for the front and 60 for the rear; unless you have a large vise mounted to a heavy table, they're a bear to break loose. Use the mass of the car to hold the calipers for you.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

As mentioned above, open up the leaking caliper and see if it's sleeved in stainless steel. If so, pull off the other three calipers and confirm that they are the same. You can buy an O-ring kit which includes 16 pistons and the necessary O-rings to rebuild the brakes. It should take you less than a day. I use Van Steel for my parts as they are local for me. Check their website for pricing. The last kit cost me about $250. Decent calipers are two to three times the price. Your local auto store will have them, but they may not be sleeved and may not be O-ring type pistons. If unsure what you have, post a picture. Jerry

 

See clearly? Yes an old master lid drilled for a fitting works well.
But like all the other lid adaptors, you can not see what's going on in the master rez.

You must have a home window business in your neighborhood?
Have them cut you a piece of bullet proof Lexan (plexiglass) around 3/8" think.
Drill that Lexan for fittings, as shown in my photo album.
Then, you truly can see things clearly.

Here is a tip on Motive Bleeders.
As you are near completing the last bleeder, shut off the pressure and allow the master to drain-down some. (top-it-off later)
You do not want a mess of (paint eating) Dot3 gushing from the masters lid.

 

Good advice. I didn't pull the calipers yet. I guess it only makes sense to do them all at the same time. I was just going to use the caliper part number to match up with a kit, but I will post pictures when I do. Probably originals since they are Delco.

 

You won't need any caliper numbers. It's highly unlikely your car has the first design used in '65 and part of '66, so all calipers from late-'66 to '82 are the same second design which makes them fully interchangeable.