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I know this is simple...but here is my question:
Can i remove just my manual trans without pulling my engine? I. Thinking I have enough room if I remove my trans mounts and drive shaft. Keeping the bell housing in place
All great advise. When reinstalling, I make two studs from bolts with the heads cut off and put them in the two top holes in the bell housing to safely hang the transmission while setting everything up. I cut a slot in the studs so you can remove them with a screwdriver. Jerry
In a word yes!
You need all 4 wheels in the air, disconnect the drive shaft at the diff and move it to one side.
Put a jack under the rear of the engine, pull the prop shaft, disconnect the gear linkages and remove gear lever.
Remove the gearbox support from the cross member.
Unbolt the trans and twist it on its side and pull back clear of the bellhousing then wiggle it out.
If you have a lift all the better, I don't so it was all done on my back under the car so make sure it's properly supported.
No problem, might have skipped a few details as it was a few years ago now when I rebuilt my diff and Muncie after I fitted a taller gear for more relaxed cruising! I'd never done a diff before but went well just have to take your time and check check and check again!!
The output shaft may drip some after driveshaft removal, so be ready for that.
Take a white paint-pen and draw a reference line from rear driveshaft onto pinion yoke.
I like to reassemble exactly the way it was found.
Age of your U-Joints? Mileage?
Some exhaust systems may be in the way, depends.
Speedo cable can dangle off to the side. Great time to change speedo gear if it reads incorrectly.
Great time to swap-out tail-housing seal too.
Highly recommend a visit to Harbor Freight. See if you can find a 3/8" drive ratchet extension about 10 - 14 inches long.
That will help reach the four tranny bolts.
If the clutch disc refuses to release the input shaft, you can depress the clutch to help.
However, you will need to buy a clutch alignment tool when things go back together.
All great advise. When reinstalling, I make two studs from bolts with the heads cut off and put them in the two top holes in the bell housing to safely hang the transmission while setting everything up. I cut a slot in the studs so you can remove them with a screwdriver. Jerry
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You may not be able to get the tranny out of the car with the bellhousing bolted to the engine: If your car has the fixed crossmember, you may not be able to get the transmission input shaft to come clear of the bellhousing, even when rotating the tranny. I've always had to unbolt the bellhousing from the engine, as well as unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing, and then "jack-knifing" the two components out of the car. Also, don't forget to remove your distributor cap or it will get crushed against the firewall.
Lars
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I did this a number of years ago and I was younger and stronger and it was a major hassle......I would research the weight of the tranny and whether or not you can hold that much weight up and be able to manipulate it and not drop it on your face and then lower it. Then you have to get it off the floor, onto your chest and press it back up again....if you have a cheap harbour freight transmission jack, make sure its well grease the tranny gets strapped to it because its going to want to roll all over the place going up and coming down and it hurts when it smashes into your face
Dont forget to brace your engine either by supporting the oil pan or using a crane of some sort to support the rear of the engine to keep it from crushing your distributor cap against the fire wall.
If our not concerned about NCRS point consider making the crossmember removable and you will live a full life with all your teeth....with one you can get a tranny out in under an hour the second time around once you do it once and figure out all the little tricks.