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Don't drive the car enough and sure enough the radiator is leaking. Believe it to be original. Car is L68 matching numbers. What is the best replacement to maintain originality?
thanks,
The original radiator was copper. There are copper replacements available that look correct, but if it were my car I would be looking at the DeWitts aluminum reproduction of the original copper radiator.
Don't drive the car enough and sure enough the radiator is leaking. Believe it to be original. Car is L68 matching numbers. What is the best replacement to maintain originality?
thanks,
Where you live there are probably many radiator shops. Take it to have it recored, that way your end tanks will retain their originality. Might help to measure their end-to-end distance just in case.
If originality is your goal, get the correct core from DeWitt’s and have a reputable radiator shop take the original end tanks off of the original and put them on the new core. I believe that the DeWitt’s core has a higher fin count than the original, but it isn’t really noticeable… Plus you’ll have the correct top/bottom plates and end tanks.
That is going to be the most original looking option available.
If originality is your goal, get the correct core from DeWitt’s and have a reputable radiator shop take the original end tanks off of the original and put them on the new core. I believe that the DeWitt’s core has a higher fin count than the original, but it isn’t really noticeable… Plus you’ll have the correct top/bottom plates and end tanks.
That is going to be the most original looking option available.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Does DeWitts still offer the copper/brass big block radiator core less tanks? I know they used to but I thought they'd dropped it. I tried to get one for a customer a year or two ago and was told it wasn't available? According to their current catalog their still offer a complete copper 67 427 radiator and the complete 67-68 427 copper radiator. I couldn't find it on the website either?
To be honest, you may be right. I purchased a core from them about three years ago for my 1970 LT-1… If I recall correctly, I had to call and request it as it wasn’t being advertised at that point either.
You can always order a copper/brass core from another supplier in the correct dimensions. Gary (gbozz on this site) has correct top and bottom plates available… Combine those with the correct end tanks and you’re back in business.
Don't drive the car enough and sure enough the radiator is leaking. Believe it to be original. Car is L68 matching numbers. What is the best replacement to maintain originality?
thanks,
DeWitt's are top shelf. And would preserve a sense of originality better than other New choices.
But seeing as how OP located at Minnesota, perhaps he should also consider Northern Radiator at Willmar, MN ?
Also, there should be a few trustworthy radiator repair shops in OP's general area; where they could probably both recore & restore his OE radiator to as-new condition and functionality.
I just did this recently with my 69 BB and my 68 BB.
Bought the cores from Dewitt’s and then paid a local radiator shop to put the original tanks on my new core.
The cores were about $800 and the radiator shop charged me $235 for the work.
Dewitts does make an aluminum drop in radiator too.
Check the Dewitt site and look at the garage sale section. I bought a drop in radiator that had a small dent for a substantial savings.
Most good radiator shops can clean out and solder your old radiator providing the rust is not extensive. The cost should be less than $ 250 and you keep everything original. Yo want to find a shop that does trucks and heavy construction equipment as they know they are doing.
Most good radiator shops can clean out and solder your old raThose are being repaired.diator providing the rust is not extensive. The cost should be less than $ 250 and you keep everything original. Yo want to find a shop that does trucks and heavy construction equipment as they know they are doing.
Good point on sourcing rad shops that serve primarily heavy OTR trucks and heavy construction equipment. The DD and lite truck rad segment is dominated by cheap $70-$150 imports.
The commercial rads are Heavy and most are bolt-together and Expensive. Those are being repaired.