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My right front brake line did the same. Couldn't save it. Just replaced it. Took a few days to build up courage to tackle it. Had to unbolt my Borgenson steering box to get past it. Ending up getting longer bolts for the straps along the cross member. You will have to tweak and bend the lines to get it in.
My right front brake line did the same. Couldn't save it. Just replaced it. Took a few days to build up courage to tackle it. Had to unbolt my Borgenson steering box to get past it. Ending up getting longer bolts for the straps along the cross member. You will have to tweak and bend the lines to get it in.
Looks like I have to do the front right as well. It’s toast. I should have known this.
im going to cut it and undo it today. I got the front left off.
Are you lines Armoured covered. Mine have spiral housing around them. I don’t think that’s factory.
Im looking at the corvette depot lines.
I see a few 1/2 bolts that holt them down across the front.
thx for the tips. I just wish it was on my lift and not on the floor when I decided to bleed the brakes…..
All that black spray paint on everything certainly isn't. Now is a good time to clean up that combination/proportioning valve, and anything else you can reach.
I ordered from Top Flight. Thought I was getting what was pictured (all the brake lines)... but only received 2 front lines and 2 master cylinder lines. Just make sure you get the whole car. Replace what you absolutely must... save the rest for a rainy day.
The spiral comes on the aftermarket lines.
5 bottles of brake fluid, a year later... my fluid is showing signs of rust. You may want to remove the calipers and flush them out by holding them upside down.
Are you lines Armoured covered. Mine have spiral housing around them. I don’t think that’s factory.
Originally Posted by Bikespace
Armored line is likely factory.
All that black spray paint on everything certainly isn't. Now is a good time to clean up that combination/proportioning valve, and anything else you can reach.
100% factory — replace the "armored" (spiral-wrapped) lines with the same. GM felt those sections were prone to road debris damage or crushing so follow their lead.
100% agree on the black paint — buy several cans of brake-clean to use as a paint solvent.
All that black spray paint on everything certainly isn't. Now is a good time to clean up that combination/proportioning valve, and anything else you can reach.
exactly
what I’m doing. Been doing the whole car. I wish I was spray paint. It’s nasty never dry undercoating BS that needs solvents to get off. I’ve done a lone of it. Spent hours on this car just de gunking.
Will be dry iced soon but I still have to remove the hard crap.
When I get my lines I’ll Cerakote them too like I do everything.
the orig hardware also. I have a lil process for anything I remove.
The proportion valve was easy with the lines cut. Everything removed.
for those wondering about the caliper rust. Brand new Calipers from Lonestar and the clear Cerakote treatment from yours truly. Slippy and clean.
why the old pads and rotors? Fear not, it’s only until I get the car at my other shop with the heavy equipment and 2 post I’ll drill them out. I have new ones and pads.
All this because wanted to bleed brakes… and the front right bleeder snapped. Was going to do this anyway but not right now… oh well
The Orig line. Hardware will be blasted , coated or plated Will clean as much as I can Smooth and shiny to 1700 Degrees.
I realize that at there is a Snowball at the top of the hill but looking at that Brake Rotor sure makes me wonder when the last time the Trailing Arm Bearings saw daylight. The reason I'm saying this I recently had a 1963 SWC on my lift and the car has been beautifully restored. Only thing wrong is that somebody ran a new brake line around the one that runs through the frame. In other words the car has had everything rebuilt, repainted and made right. The one thing left to do is to do a frame off and that's what should of happened first.
I realize that at there is a Snowball at the top of the hill but looking at that Brake Rotor sure makes me wonder when the last time the Trailing Arm Bearings saw daylight. The reason I'm saying this I recently had a 1963 SWC on my lift and the car has been beautifully restored. Only thing wrong is that somebody ran a new brake line around the one that runs through the frame. In other words the car has had everything rebuilt, repainted and made right. The one thing left to do is to do a frame off and that's what should of happened first.
I question the statement that the car was restored if they took this sort of shortcut. I changed out my '72 main brake line that also runs down the frame through the rear cross member and was able to bend and finagle it into place. I can't say it was the easiest line to replace with the body on the frame, but it was certainly doable.
I realize that at there is a Snowball at the top of the hill but looking at that Brake Rotor sure makes me wonder when the last time the Trailing Arm Bearings saw daylight. The reason I'm saying this I recently had a 1963 SWC on my lift and the car has been beautifully restored. Only thing wrong is that somebody ran a new brake line around the one that runs through the frame. In other words the car has had everything rebuilt, repainted and made right. The one thing left to do is to do a frame off and that's what should of happened first.
Im just getting the car ready for Saftey right now.
This happened Because I even though you don’t have to bleed brakes for it where I live, It’s the right thing to do. The bleeder went, new caliper and lines, and then the hard lines.
Im buying the whole set as next winter I’m doing there rears when I pop the frame off. I have heard you can do it body on but why make it hard?
As for the trailing arm bearings.. bye bye. I’ll toss em and get new ones. Probable the whole arm.
My cars need to be mechanically tip top, rest assured it will all be done. Bushings, bearings and all squishy bits squishy.
Seen an idea the other day I will try it next time I remove a fitting.Heat it up and melt a crayon into it then try it with the vice grips.
Generally this is done using Bees Wax. You can buy it in a Crayon shape just for this. It really doesn't do anything that a penetrating Oil doesn't do but its less messy when dealing with Hot parts.
When clearance is possible, a vise-grip clamped on the outside of a flare wrench end will prevent the stretching of the boxed end. You get the clamping force of the vise-grip with none of the gouging. Just a technique to consider for future endeavors👍
When clearance is possible, a vise-grip clamped on the outside of a flare wrench end will prevent the stretching of the boxed end. You get the clamping force of the vise-grip with none of the gouging. Just a technique to consider for future endeavors👍
do you have a pic of this? Sounds like a good technique. So the Vise goes over the flair part attached to the wrench?
Any tips / help for getting a Brake line fitting off!!
